How to turbo your N/A

[skidjap]

g-day dan ive had the na rb20 in my 32 for a while now almost off the p plater law and was hopefully keen to slap a turbo on it.

besides all the main parts and pieces i was hopein you could help me out with wat little things i would need to make it possible? cheers

[G0DZLR]

is yours single or twin cam mate?

[skidjap]

um its the original na engine never been turbo so im guessing its twin cam

[skidjap]

its a 1993 hcr gts

[666DAN]

A guy I know literally threw on the factory turbo, ECU, injectors, fuel pump, fuel reg, exhaust and intercooler setup and it was good to go, seems the older the gen car, the better they run with just the essential gear swapped.

He was getting a 13.9 straight off

[skidjap]

oh really so no muckin around just bolt straight on!

wat about the oil and water feed for the turbo? wat setup would you recomend?

[Goodwin]

G'day Guys, I'm looking at doing this to my R33 GTS, however I am a P Plater in qld :S...Say someone were to accidentally try and turbo my car what would they need? Also say the po po found out, would it be hard to take back out/tune?

Cheers Jake

[WYTSKY]

G'day Guys, I'm looking at doing this to my R33 GTS, however I am a P Plater in qld :S...Say someone were to accidentally try and turbo my car what would they need? Also say the po po found out, would it be hard to take back out/tune?

Cheers Jake

they would need money...

if the popo found out tell them it got turboed by accident...

ya goose.

[G0DZLR]

G'day Guys, I'm looking at doing this to my R33 GTS, however I am a P Plater in qld :S...Say someone were to accidentally try and turbo my car what would they need? Also say the po po found out, would it be hard to take back out/tune?

Cheers Jake

LoL.

keep all your stock gear handy

[steveqwerty]

Don't know if this has been covered, but a guy on the 31 club site has a fairly detailed thread about how to turbo a rb25de

http://forum.r31skylineclub.com/index.php?topic=81144.0

[talky]

LoL.

paint your bov black man .....cops will notice it .if its relly shinnny

[Kinkstaah]

I'm just going to throw this out there as it wasnt mentioned (and had a bit of a conversation with N-DAWG about it via PM).

Has anyone.... other than me attempted to get this done (i am as mechanically useful as a rabbit).. with the stock ECU? And in this example, I mean the GTT ECU.

Given Victoria's very stringent laws regarding ECU - What have the victorians doing this done to get around this problem?

Has anyone tried this - Or in my case, been forced to try this? Or is everyone else out there running a copgyback and hiding the thing?

[Samon]

I'm just going to throw this out there as it wasnt mentioned (and had a bit of a conversation with N-DAWG about it via PM).

Has anyone.... other than me attempted to get this done (i am as mechanically useful as a rabbit).. with the stock ECU? And in this example, I mean the GTT ECU.

Given Victoria's very stringent laws regarding ECU - What have the victorians doing this done to get around this problem?

Has anyone tried this - Or in my case, been forced to try this? Or is everyone else out there running a copgyback and hiding the thing?

I initially did it using the stock N/A (R33 GTS) ECU with a GReddy eManage hooked up only to compensate for the larger injectors initially... a SAFC would have done just as well... then just wound the timing back a couple of degrees to fix the knock and it went fine. I eventually got the whole motor rebuilt with the smaller turbo pistons so now I'm running a stock GTST ECU with no aftermarket management (rebuild warranty and all that... gonna wait it out then whack the eManage back on and get it tuned) and it goes quite well... I guess as well as a fairly new stockish 33 would have (though with a FMIC, bigger zorst, boost controller, etc).

[Kinkstaah]

I initially did it using the stock N/A (R33 GTS) ECU with a GReddy eManage hooked up only to compensate for the larger injectors initially... a SAFC would have done just as well... then just wound the timing back a couple of degrees to fix the knock and it went fine. I eventually got the whole motor rebuilt with the smaller turbo pistons so now I'm running a stock GTST ECU with no aftermarket management (rebuild warranty and all that... gonna wait it out then whack the eManage back on and get it tuned) and it goes quite well... I guess as well as a fairly new stockish 33 would have (though with a FMIC, bigger zorst, boost controller, etc).

That's all well and good - How is it running with the GTS-T ECU? The issue (so I am told) is at least on my R34 is that there's no boost sensor, so the GTT ECU goes a bit haywire as it understandably cannot detect any boost.

In addition I've been told in order to get it all setup reasonably okay, a loom from a R34 GTT would need to be sourced to get this all running.

However, havent heard anyone comment about this in the thread, hence my questions as to whether this is a R34 issue, or specifically only an issue with the stock GTT ECU (to stay legal), or whether its just incorrect information and the original loom can be used.

I'm not about to say anything against Ray & Co at RE Customs, so I doubt its the latter but found it interesting noone else had mentioned this issue about looms, and was curious as to why it's such an issue for lucky me.. and given the car has been there for about 5 weeks now waiting on a Loom I figured I'd ask the question, but I'm sure it's because I'm being a difficult prick and want the car to be legal to avoid getting done on it later, and having to make it legal anyway in the future.

[Samon]

That's all well and good - How is it running with the GTS-T ECU? The issue (so I am told) is at least on my R34 is that there's no boost sensor, so the GTT ECU goes a bit haywire as it understandably cannot detect any boost.

I'm lucky there... the R33's don't have a boost sensor! (Okay, they do, but it's only purpose is for the gauge on the dash... doesn't hook into the ECU at all)

On the R34s I believe this is a problem as the ECU does indeed 'see' boost (or a lack of it without the proper boost sensor and loom). You'd be better to stick with the N/A ECU and then just get some sort of basic air-flow signal adjustment (i.e. SAFC or the like) to compensate for the larger injectors. Wind the timing back a couple of degrees to prevent pinging and you should be fine.

[Kinkstaah]

...You'd be better to stick with the N/A ECU and then just get some sort of basic air-flow signal adjustment ...

...which leads me into the question regarding aftermarket ECU's and Managment with the aim of being 100% legal and whether anyone has done it before

[Samon]

...which leads me into the question regarding aftermarket ECU's and Managment with the aim of being 100% legal and whether anyone has done it before

Hmmm... 100% legal might be difficult (or expensive)... but if you are stealthy enough with your install of the SAFC or whatever it would be incredibly hard for anyone to pin you for it...

[Mr.Massive]

Hey guys, just curious what you have done with your brakes. Have you done a 5 stud conversion with brake upgrade? If not how do the N/A brakes handle with the extra power. I normally down gear to slow down and only brake for complete stops - could i get away with the N/A brakes?

[Samon]

Hey guys, just curious what you have done with your brakes. Have you done a 5 stud conversion with brake upgrade? If not how do the N/A brakes handle with the extra power. I normally down gear to slow down and only brake for complete stops - could i get away with the N/A brakes?

My 33 already had a 5-stud conversion, so I didn't have to worry about it, but if you're only driving on the street, N/A brakes will be fine. Really, N/A vs. turbo brakes will only come into play when brake fade starts to kick in... i.e. on a track where you're leaning on them HARD corner after corner, but on the street I doubt this would be a problem. Sure your acceleration is improved, but that doesn't really mean you're going to be driving any FASTER... there's still speed limits, etc, so the stock N/A brakes should be fine.

[N-DAWG]

I upgraded mine to R33 GTSt brakes. I did find the N/A brakes were more responsive and had a better initial feel, even after changing booster/cylinder to match the GTSt brakes... possibly something do do with the amount of fluid going through the calipers? or maybe simply the lower weight of the rotating parts?

I know when Dori done his conversion, particularly at the higher boost, he found that the N/A brakes were in need of serious upgrading.

You may get away with simply upgrading to slotted rotors, street/track suitable pads, braided lines (mainly if your brake lines are old) and a Master Cylinder Stopper to reduce firewall flex under heavy braking (also dependant on how bad the firewall flex is).