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How to turbo your N/A

666DAN

By 666DAN,
in Engines & Forced Induction

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Hanaldo Grand Master

Hanaldo

Posted
Posted

You seem pretty keen on the DE+T?

As I said, your decision, there's extra risks associated with the conversion, but may work out less than swapping to a GTT. And despite what everyone says, you can't run 20psi through a RB25DET with just a PFC, they will both require the same mods for the same gains...

That depends on the turbo :happy:

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MirKz
MirKz

havent you forgotten to list pistons ? you need low compression pistons, otherwise using the standard high compression pistons that NA's have will just F*&k ure engine VERY quickly.. although i h

mrjelly
mrjelly

i have a 1993 r32 gts with a rb20det conversion. i bought it this way so i dunno whats been done. power seems sweet up until 5000rpm, where it seems to hit some flat spots in power from there onwards.

unarmed_skyline
unarmed_skyline

hey i just though i would go back a little bit and add something in, in relation to drilling the oil return line into the block a way of getting around this would be to buy an oil cooler and run the o

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zebra Grand Master

zebra

Posted
Posted

Why goto all the effort of changing an na gt into a dead stock turbo model? This I never understand. Everyone thinks they are attached to their car until they get a better one. Why f**k about in the garage for weeks throwing all the factory turbo stuff into their car when a simple trip to the for sale section will land you a car the same age and same colour as the one you have. But just happens to be the factory turbo version

Serg Collaborator

Serg

Posted
Posted

Why goto all the effort of changing an na gt into a dead stock turbo model? This I never understand. Everyone thinks they are attached to their car until they get a better one. Why f**k about in the garage for weeks throwing all the factory turbo stuff into their car when a simple trip to the for sale section will land you a car the same age and same colour as the one you have. But just happens to be the factory turbo version

True

I'm trying to sell mine, well maintained with brakes, rotors, tyres near new, and for a reasonable price (14k ono with RWC, rims, sound, etc..)... I really dont want to convert it, but it has gone thru my mind a couple times since its hard to sell...

The N/A market is only for P Platers, and around 90% of them want dirt cheap imports, that is, they dont care about the state they are in, just that they can then brag on fb they they drive a skyline... glare.gif

8/9k was my latest offer, question is, would selling it for this price and buying a not so trashed GTT be worth it instead of a conversion? (we talking about 3/4k if not more to play around)

Jonno34 Mentor

Jonno34

Posted
Posted (edited)

8 or 9 sounds rather harsh :(

maybe car prices in perth are higher than in VIC though ...

Considering the RB30DE Conversion rather than the turbo now ... need to have a read of this though it seems complicated ...

cheers everyone

Edited by Jonno34
blk94r33 Mentor

blk94r33

Posted
Posted

Why goto all the effort of changing an na gt into a dead stock turbo model? This I never understand. Everyone thinks they are attached to their car until they get a better one. Why f**k about in the garage for weeks throwing all the factory turbo stuff into their car when a simple trip to the for sale section will land you a car the same age and same colour as the one you have. But just happens to be the factory turbo version

Same reason people spend money on R32 RB20DET's, "just get a 33 with a RB25DET"

You buy the 33, "Get a GTR, you're wasting your money on the 25"

You get a 33 GTR, "you should've gotten a 34, they're a better looking car"

It'll never end

How is spending money on a N/A any different to the same mods for a turbo, that in most cases to get something WORTH buying, you spend more on the initial purchase?

"Turbo brakes are better"

And? Spend ~500, get the hubs etc. slap em' on, and get your DBA4000's and good pads that all the GTST owners upgrade to anyway...

Why all the N/A hate?

Should I troll the forced induction section telling all GTST owners to buy GTR's? All GTR owners that 26's are crap, and to build a hybrid?

Not a personal attack, just don't get it...

DR 32R Rising Star

DR 32R

Posted
Posted

For the complexity of a plus T go further, built motor and Turbo up grade, aim to keep it at least another 4-5 years. You could just drive it another year and plan on a r34gtr, hoping prices drop. Most used car values are heading south fast.

Hanaldo Grand Master

Hanaldo

Posted
Posted

Martin hahaha I'm the dude that got ur exhaust off ya ;)

n ur the guy with the full conversion that I was talkin about!

How's the car?

Oh hey man, sorry I didn't recognize the username! lol.

Yeh car is going fine man, no real issues :D Still a bit slow for my liking, but none of my friends agree :P

Why goto all the effort of changing an na gt into a dead stock turbo model? This I never understand. Everyone thinks they are attached to their car until they get a better one. Why f**k about in the garage for weeks throwing all the factory turbo stuff into their car when a simple trip to the for sale section will land you a car the same age and same colour as the one you have. But just happens to be the factory turbo version

Because it's not that much effort? I also didn't change it all to dead stock... I spent a long time weighing up the positives and negatives. Consider this. I paid 15k for my car when I bought it. At the time I did the conversion last year, there is no chance I would have got 13k for it. The conversion including all parts (necessary parts, not optional parts that I chose to use) cost me about 6-7k. So by the time my car was essentially a GTT, perhaps I could have sold my car and bought a car worth 20k.

So yes, perhaps I could have bought a factory GTT. And yet for the same price, I got so much more. Even if you ignore all the parts that I upgraded (too many to list off the top of my head), the experience was priceless. I have done too much to my car to consider owning a different one. If I was to sell my car, it would only be to move away from the high performance scene.

Converge Community Regular

Converge

Posted
Posted (edited)

hahaha its never fast enough is it :)

i'm finding mine far too slow ... unfortunately everyone agrees also hahaha

Unless you take your car to the track/strip, I really don't see the point in having a car that is "uber fast", when your on the road you have to stick to the speed limit anyway :dry:

Just my opinion, but I guess some people like to reach the next set of traffic lights faster :P

**Puts on flame suit **

Edited by Converge
Hanaldo Grand Master

Hanaldo

Posted
Posted

Unless you take your car to the track/strip, I really don't see the point in having a car that is "uber fast", when your on the road you have to stick to the speed limit anyway :dry:

Just my opinion, but I guess some people like to reach the next set of traffic lights faster :P

**Puts on flame suit **

Eh, fully agree, my car is much too fast for the street.

The track is very addictive though... Can't get enough :D

DR 32R Rising Star

DR 32R

Posted
Posted

Because it's not that much effort? I also didn't change it all to dead stock... I spent a long time weighing up the positives and negatives. Consider this. I paid 15k for my car when I bought it. At the time I did the conversion last year, there is no chance I would have got 13k for it. The conversion including all parts (necessary parts, not optional parts that I chose to use) cost me about 6-7k. So by the time my car was essentially a GTT, perhaps I could have sold my car and bought a car worth 20k.

So yes, perhaps I could have bought a factory GTT. And yet for the same price, I got so much more. Even if you ignore all the parts that I upgraded (too many to list off the top of my head), the experience was priceless. I have done too much to my car to consider owning a different one. If I was to sell my car, it would only be to move away from the high performance scene.

I agree a build is the learning and the "experience". Having selected, "held", been involved with your cars performance parts, is something I find more interesting than just trading cars and retail therapy.

blk94r33 Mentor

blk94r33

Posted
Posted

Had another quick read through the thread, what is everyone using that allows them to run 9+psi?

-Is a PFC/engine management the only solution?

-Will the stock ECU handle water meth injection?

-Can you up the boost without taking out timing, but avoid knock?

-The standard RB25DET SMIC is "meant" to handle up to ~200rwkw, is this not the case with higher compression?

Still yet to get my car dyno'ed and the timing/power checked properly, but curious about what lies ahead...

  • 1 month later...
blk94r33 Mentor

blk94r33

Posted
Posted

Bit of an update.

Car is still/now running great. Had a few issues with blue smoke on cold-ish boost, ie, when the car was sitting and allowed tho oil to cool, it'd burn oil until it got hot again and blow nasty blue clouds. Fitted a catch can, didn't make any difference, but didn't catch anything either which is a good sign. Figured it must be a problem with the turbo (oil in cooler lines), so removed the sump and welded in a dedicated 3/4" return line fitting for the turbos' oil drain, as before it was tapped into the VCT with a 5/8 barb, an now no more smoke!

Car currently loses ~1.5 psi over 4000-5000rpm, suspect due to the N/A cat converter and center muffler, so both getting changed with high-flow items and new piping tomorrow.

Turbo-tech boost controller arrived in the mail last week, once the exhaust is done, dyno time to see how much it'll take....

blk94r33 Mentor

blk94r33

Posted
Posted

Were you running an oil restricter on yuor turbo feed line?

Not that i'm aware. Standard banjo bolts, standard oil feed steel line. All fixed now though. I'd say cramming a 5/8" hose onto a 3/4" fitting, then tapping it into a spot with oil already flowing from the head would have caused it...

SKiT_R31 Experienced

SKiT_R31

Posted
Posted

Mine runs fine like that (and has done for 20thou km), but if you are feeding it too much oil it would make sense that it would need a more serious drain.

Next time you have it off have a look at your bango bolt, it should have a pin sized hole in it (not completely hollow).

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