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The part number for a r33 cat in a N/A and a turbo are the same. I would only be using an educated guess but i reckon its the same for the R34.
If thats the case the dump pipe will match the cat along as it the original one from compliance.

Ok so I'll run an r33 dump and front pipe into my current cat and other pipes (for now).

More questions, with the intake we have the na with the big Y piece. The Gtt had the single straight cross pipe. Will I need to buy a new intake manifold from a Gtt? Or do I bolt the cross pipe to the big Y thing. I don't know what to call it! Haha

I've attached pictures.. Hopefully they work with tappatalk!

post-76780-13791833704432_thumb.jpgpost-76780-13791833823889_thumb.jpg

Ok so I'll run an r33 dump and front pipe into my current cat and other pipes (for now).

More questions, with the intake we have the na with the big Y piece. The Gtt had the single straight cross pipe. Will I need to buy a new intake manifold from a Gtt? Or do I bolt the cross pipe to the big Y thing. I don't know what to call it! Haha

I've attached pictures.. Hopefully they work with tappatalk!

attachicon.gifImageUploadedByTapatalk1379183368.667917.jpgattachicon.gifImageUploadedByTapatalk1379183378.351019.jpg

You can get a custom 90 degree pipe made up or use a silicone pipe and attach to the end of the "Y" piece. Dan666 has/had this setup I think. You will have to remove the resonator box and get a GTt airbox :)

Still going along.

Things to do:

Mount intercooler to get piping made up ready for install.

Source intake manifold/cross pipe/bov/throttle body - alternatively I could weld up some pipe with a bov and attach that to the big Y throttle body. What ever is cheaper/easier.

Dump/front pipe still need them cheaply.


ECU! What will I do there?! is the AWD controlled by the main ECU? From what I can see there is a separate AWD computer. Hmm.

P.s some background on me:

I'm studying Science, im 23, I used to modify computers when I was in my teens. I also used to race karts and work on them. This is a bit of a learning exercise for me, but I have a few mechanics helping me out when I get stuck.

:)

  • 2 weeks later...

Get a Ebay front and dump pipe in one. They are about $299 and will get as good as the genuine ones if not better, not much more than 2nd hand genuine.
Also look at getting a braied oil feed line and braided coolant feed and return line kits. You get all 3 lines in the kit.

ahk, thought you were using a RB25 turbo.
The oil return should be on the turbo you have, it stands out (Its a15 cm metal pipe with about a 45 degree elbow bend at the bottom of it aimed towards the bottom of the block so it drains turbo oil into the sump).
There simple drain pipes, if you didnt get one with your turbo that one on Ebay looks to be a good alternative, you just bolt that plate to the turbo and screw one of the fittings in then the other into the block fitting and hook the hose up and its done.

  • 3 weeks later...

I've got Turbo Yoda from Mighty Car Mods giving me some advise on this one. He's actually told me that because of the NA motor I can run a bigger turbo than you would be able to in the Turbo model.

For now I'll run the RB25DET stock turbo.

Higher compression spools the turbo very quickly. On my auto I would reach full boost by at least 2,000rpm.

I lost compression after 40,000 kms of N/A+t, and I didn't drive it gently either. I was going to do a stag n/a+t swap with a larger rear housing turbo, but decided on reliability of a det swap which on stock turbo and internals through a heavy duty auto box netted me 215rwkw with a e01 boost controller and emanage blue ecu running map and afm simultaneously, tuned by Paul Fisher at Pulse racing. I'd take the swap over bolt on conversion.

  • 2 weeks later...
  • 2 weeks later...

Still collecting parts here, getting a bit poor and uni exams atm!

If anyone has cheap:

Oil/water turbo lines

front pipe

SMIC with piping (can trade for a FMIC with no piping, but its big and will fit the skyline front grill just haha)

what are people doing for the oil drain on a s1 r33 25de engine?

i'm thinking weld barb onto sump as its cheaper and quicker then drilling and taping in a new drain where that blanked off one is on the block, and dont have to worry about lost metal filings

There is a drain pipe at the top of the head for oil (above the power steering pump). It travels down to the bottom of the block and had a small 90 degree rubber hose at the end of the pipe draining into the bottom of the block. You can cut that and put a T piece in there and direct the oil drain from the turbo into that T piece.

Got my braided oil lines.

Rough pricing of things:

exhaust manifold + Turbo $100

Walbro fuel pump $50

R34 GTT manual ECU $100

Turbosmart type 2 bov $20 lol

braided oil lines: $70

dump pipe $20

Fmic $50

Just need a front pipe and then going to do intercooler piping

cheers

i'm a 20 man, only recently acquired a 25 and thought that pipe was for coolant :laugh:

There is a drain pipe at the top of the head for oil (above the power steering pump). It travels down to the bottom of the block and had a small 90 degree rubber hose at the end of the pipe draining into the bottom of the block. You can cut that and put a T piece in there and direct the oil drain from the turbo into that T piece.

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