Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hi guys,

just a question:

i was recently received a Excessive Noise Statement and did the required noise test.

so i went to Daalder Zorst in boxhill. not knowing much abt this noise test, he set up the mic etc etc and revved to 4800rpm. then said that my zorst was 10db over.

*ouch

anways, went back to the import dealer and one of the mechanics said that this particular guy at daalder was dodgey and makes a job out of these inspections.

the mechanic told me to goto a shop in st albans. i did that the following day and the tester said that 4800rpm was utter bull. this guy only tested my noise lever at 3200.

his explanation was that all cars that are imported and consequently have no engine numbers are tested at 3000 or there abouts.

any comments?

btw, i'm new to this forum

as you can see, this is in the wrong section...could an admin kindly place this in the correct section. excuse my retardedness

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/33418-epa-noise-test/
Share on other sites

Yeah.. you always have got to be a bit cautious.. because the exhaust shop has something to sell you, but they're not always going to shark you. Plenty of jap. exhausts *are* way loud and don't meet Australian standards.

Anyhow noods, it don't really matter who you take it to and what they measure it at, as long as they're an approved EPA noise tester and can write off your notice then thats all that really matters..

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/33418-epa-noise-test/#findComment-670784
Share on other sites

I took my car to Daalder in Box Hill.. and they were great..

they also did the test at 4800rpm

Im guessing they know what they are doing.. and the exhaust shop in st albans dont know what they are talking about..

I also have had nothing but good experiences with Daalder!!

;)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/33418-epa-noise-test/#findComment-671268
Share on other sites

hey guys, i need to go to test mine too, so which one better? st albans? box hill dallder?

i already got an aftermarket with resonator and muffler? what else "special resonator" they can add?? i'm hoping mine is around 89db though...

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/33418-epa-noise-test/#findComment-674594
Share on other sites

I had an EPA on my bike at the start of last year. Ended up taking it to "a" St Albans tester (without naming names) and it was way over before we even got half way to the testing RPM. For a small fee (including the test) all i had to do was get some stock exhaust pipe numbers from a bike shop for him to say he saw it on the bike. The stock numbers went on the certificate and i rode off with a "quiet" bike. If i get done again, "i swapped my exhaust system back after the test".

I guess he only did it because he doesn't sell motorbike exhausts. Some guys can be pretty cool.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/33418-epa-noise-test/#findComment-675855
Share on other sites

Obviously higher than our 90db... maybe like 93 or 95

But there has been a new Jasma standard released sometime last year maybe, and best bet is to get the latest model exh from jpn that conforms to the new standard, as it will definitely be quieter than exhausts models made 3-4 yrs ago, and new models could under 90db (perhaps... ?)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/33418-epa-noise-test/#findComment-678888
Share on other sites

Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi...so a "development" here aswell The swap is "done" and car went "test drive" BUT it seems the clutch(maybe gearbox?) is a little bit sad? I bought this clutch kit https://justjap.com/products/xtreme-heavy-duty-organic-clutch-flywheel-kit-nissan-skyline-r31-r32-r33-push-type "Problem" is that the first gear is hard to put into and it seems that the clutch is not disengaged. It was not the problem with the old clutch...(or like sometime the first gear would not get as easy specialy when the fluid was cold) So? Can it be like...bad "install" or is the clutch wrong ((it should not have been) i done research to get the right one) Or is this "normal" with new clutch and needs to be break in? 
    • @Duncan I can try  and thanks i did not thought about VIN and part numbers for 33/34. @GTSBoy yeah it looks like iam gonna do that  
    • Forgot to include this but this is the mid section of my steering rack that looks like it has a thread/can be turned with that notch mentioned in the post:
    • Hey everyone, Wanted to pick some brains about this issue I'm having with rebuilding my 33 rack (PN is 49001-19U05). All of the tutorials/videos I've seen online are either R34 or S Chassis racks which seem to be pretty straightforward to disassemble but this process doesnt carry over to my rack. Few of the key differences that I've noted The pinion shaft on the other racks bolt on with 3 torx bolts: Whereas my rack bolts on with 2 allen head bolts: These changes are pretty inconsequential but the main difference is how you pull the actual rack out of the housing. The other skyline/s chassis racks can be taken out by tapping the rack out of the body with a socket and it just slides right out. I'm unable to do that with my rack because there's a hard stop at the end that doesn't let the seal/shaft be tapped out. Can also see a difference in the other end of the rack where mine has a notch that looks like you're able to use a big wrench to unthread 2 halves of the rack whereas the other racks are just kinda set in with a punch. My rack: Other racks: TLDR; Wanted to know if anyone has rebuilt this specific model of steering rack for the R33 and if there were any steps to getting it done easier or if I should just give this to a professional to get done. Sorry if this post is a bit messy, first one I've done.
    • I would just put EBC back on the "I would not use their stuff" pile and move on.
×
×
  • Create New...