Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hi guys,

just a question:

i was recently received a Excessive Noise Statement and did the required noise test.

so i went to Daalder Zorst in boxhill. not knowing much abt this noise test, he set up the mic etc etc and revved to 4800rpm. then said that my zorst was 10db over.

*ouch

anways, went back to the import dealer and one of the mechanics said that this particular guy at daalder was dodgey and makes a job out of these inspections.

the mechanic told me to goto a shop in st albans. i did that the following day and the tester said that 4800rpm was utter bull. this guy only tested my noise lever at 3200.

his explanation was that all cars that are imported and consequently have no engine numbers are tested at 3000 or there abouts.

any comments?

btw, i'm new to this forum

as you can see, this is in the wrong section...could an admin kindly place this in the correct section. excuse my retardedness

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/33418-epa-noise-test/
Share on other sites

Yeah.. you always have got to be a bit cautious.. because the exhaust shop has something to sell you, but they're not always going to shark you. Plenty of jap. exhausts *are* way loud and don't meet Australian standards.

Anyhow noods, it don't really matter who you take it to and what they measure it at, as long as they're an approved EPA noise tester and can write off your notice then thats all that really matters..

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/33418-epa-noise-test/#findComment-670784
Share on other sites

I took my car to Daalder in Box Hill.. and they were great..

they also did the test at 4800rpm

Im guessing they know what they are doing.. and the exhaust shop in st albans dont know what they are talking about..

I also have had nothing but good experiences with Daalder!!

;)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/33418-epa-noise-test/#findComment-671268
Share on other sites

hey guys, i need to go to test mine too, so which one better? st albans? box hill dallder?

i already got an aftermarket with resonator and muffler? what else "special resonator" they can add?? i'm hoping mine is around 89db though...

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/33418-epa-noise-test/#findComment-674594
Share on other sites

I had an EPA on my bike at the start of last year. Ended up taking it to "a" St Albans tester (without naming names) and it was way over before we even got half way to the testing RPM. For a small fee (including the test) all i had to do was get some stock exhaust pipe numbers from a bike shop for him to say he saw it on the bike. The stock numbers went on the certificate and i rode off with a "quiet" bike. If i get done again, "i swapped my exhaust system back after the test".

I guess he only did it because he doesn't sell motorbike exhausts. Some guys can be pretty cool.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/33418-epa-noise-test/#findComment-675855
Share on other sites

Obviously higher than our 90db... maybe like 93 or 95

But there has been a new Jasma standard released sometime last year maybe, and best bet is to get the latest model exh from jpn that conforms to the new standard, as it will definitely be quieter than exhausts models made 3-4 yrs ago, and new models could under 90db (perhaps... ?)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/33418-epa-noise-test/#findComment-678888
Share on other sites

Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Ha, well, it's been.... a bit of a journey. Things have taken much longer than I'd hoped. I'll probably put up a thread at some stage. Hopefully soon. The car's not done any kms since my update in June though, put it that way.
    • Here's the chart for fuel pressure vs. current draw, assuming your base fuel pressure is 3 bar and you run like 0.5bar boost on WOT, you should only momentarily hit 9amps here and there. (Ignore my prev post, I cannot read a chart these days it seems)
    • Those comp test results are not hideous. Whether they are accurate or not (ie, when that comp tester says 140 psi, is the real pressure120, 140 or 160?) is unknown to us. The state of the battery used to crank it over is unknown, etc etc. Many people around here would say that the absolute values and the spread are perfectly fine to just add boost and keep going. I personally would be happier with a narrower spread than that, but even the diff between 125 and 145 is not terrible. That one cylinder at 125 though, has probably copped some damage relative to the others. You should inspect the valves seeing as you've got it open. Do you know how to measure installed ring gaps? That, and an inspection of the rings themselves, is how you will determine whether they need to be replaced. If you're not good to do these things, take the block and the pistons and rings to a shop that is, and ask them for the go/no-go on them. Do the bores need a hone at all? If so, you might well be justified in getting some different pistons in order to get away from the ring supply problem. Whether you're happy to spend a lot more money right now, on more gear, rather than less money, but an amount that looks stupid given that you will only get a handful of rings in exchange for that money, is for you to decide.
    • also possibly backed up to my filler and shat down it! 🤣
    • Ok so i would love some advice here please, i purchased an R33 a few months back and its had a few mods done to the engine, its an RB25det running a Master ECU, 1200cc injectors, bigger turbo, oil cooler, oil filter relocation kit, Spool H-beam rods, acl/ross pistons. When i removed the motor from the vehicle (as its getting a respray) i thought i would compression test it and these are the following results. Cylinder 1-145psi, Cylinder 2-143psi, Cylinder 3-125psi, Cylinder 4-145psi, Cylinder 5-140psi, Cylinder 6-135psi this test was done with the motor on the ground and powering up the starter motor. I dropped the sump and found broken oil squirters on cylinder 3,5 and 6. I was told my rings are probably worn so i stripped the motor completely to get a new set of rings for it. The trouble is no one has these rings anywhere and they have to be custom made by Ross over in the states and will cost about $600+$200 delivery. My question is how can i tell if my rings are at fault and if they are still ok and is this price ok for a set of rings?
×
×
  • Create New...