Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Horror stories about what?

Nothing wrong with a 3ltr in a GTR. It's certainly a bit more work involved than say a GTS-T RB26/30 conversion, but i wouldnt go as far as to horror story base it!

Although that said not a lot getting around, I've always wondered how the torque + gearbox would fare over 12-18months with the added torque as GTR's love to strip 3rd as it is without the added oomph.

  • Replies 107
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Well given he is a good friend of mine and we were actually discussing it yesterday, I'd be inclinded to believe my version. :)

You aren't the only one, plenty of cars out there are using factory dumps and making 330-380rwkw.

If you are so dead certain the car doesn't have anywhere near the power spend $80 and put it on another dyno and see, would be the first thing i'd do.

(i've gone from racepace to dr.drft, varience of a whopping 10rwkw)

Anyway, proof will be in the pudding - I'll remember this thread for a time when i run a 10 with factory dumps and -5's!

Till then :D

Seems that you talked about it yesterday and he is your friend, l do believe you but that does not mean my car can achieve the same result.

As for putting the car on the dyno. On the weekend there was a dyno day in my local area. l ran my car on the dyno taking into account that the dyno had its correction factor turned on and lets just say the power reading was way off, which confirms from what l am saying that the original dyno figure which as far as l know did not have the shoot out mode turned on is way off the mark but l do not want to get into into a debate how dynos are all different. This is the main reason why l keep ranting on reguarding my setup and the power figure.

Not on purpose either, a friend is organising a drag day in Dec... bit of a bet running as i said i'll run a 10, so did a mate (blown SS commo) :D

Maybe something in the setup has changed, isn't right and so on. Many worms in the can to pull out.

Not saying you aren't right or wrong, I've just never been unsatisfied in any -5 equipped car, they are savage IMO and I've had my own big single @ 370rwkw before in my car :)

Equally fun are GT35 equipped cars which produce very similar numbers etc.

Turbo Dave - His comments are valid and fair, i guess everyone is different mate.

Depends on what you want. Just remember doing it in a GTR is more costly due to sump adaptor and similar things.

It comes down to how much do you want to spend, and how far you want to go.

Rebuilding is not a cheap/easy/fast exercise generally and anyone that's done it can tell you it always costs more than you set out :D

If you don't have at least 10k lying around - i would honestly suggest smaller, better turbos, drive it and be merry for now.

Noely - you wanna come run 10s as well? :D

From what I can gather my current RB26 is a forged engine, so if I can confirm this when the time comes for some -5's it might be a cheap (sorta) upgrade.

Would a Tomei pump and 650cc squirters runs the -5's to the end on the RB26?

If it's as simple as a turbo upgrade and new map sensor I think this will be happening sooner rather than later, 400+ is calling my name??

From what I can gather my current RB26 is a forged engine, so if I can confirm this when the time comes for some -5's it might be a cheap (sorta) upgrade.

Would a Tomei pump and 650cc squirters runs the -5's to the end on the RB26?

If it's as simple as a turbo upgrade and new map sensor I think this will be happening sooner rather than later, 400+ is calling my name??

I believe the Tomei pump will be fine but cant confirm. I would definitely go larger injectors so that you have the option to run E85 at some stage.

From what I can gather my current RB26 is a forged engine, so if I can confirm this when the time comes for some -5's it might be a cheap (sorta) upgrade.

Would a Tomei pump and 650cc squirters runs the -5's to the end on the RB26?

If it's as simple as a turbo upgrade and new map sensor I think this will be happening sooner rather than later, 400+ is calling my name??

Its more about was it built right, in terms of will it hang together @ those power levels, i'd hate to see it not last or something.

I always have that worry i guess with unknown motors :D

But ye, 650/700 & a tomei pump will be fine for -5s on PULP.

You'll need at least 800'c for E85 as you'll be over 400rwkw (provided all things are in order)

Not sure if it's built as yet, has had a tune but we are treating it as a stock motor until proven otherwise.

Running 17psi daily but anymore and the stock airbox struggles up top. I'm going to address this once the -5's come along.

Had an SS a few years back but is was quite dull really. And no matter how much money you spend on getting it going it will always be a "Commodore".

Edited by Turbo Dave

on the topic of stock airbox i think Steve N1 GTR made near 600hp with stock box but really good filter.

when you say struggles what do you mean?

are you sure the stock rubber intake piping isnt sucking in restricting the flow?

take the car to the track and see what 1/4 mile time it does and what trap speed, this will help answer your questions.

or do what i do and drive a slow ass truck all day then go for a drive in the GTR and you will think its crazy fast.

or do what i do and drive a slow ass truck all day then go for a drive in the GTR and you will think its crazy fast.

Excellent advise here! Never ride a big bike again and have your memory erased so cant remember what it was like. Cheapest way out of this.

It might have been the older style Turbo's running out of puff at higher revs then. tuner said that when he went for more boost it the boost was getting wavy.

Boost dropped off at 7000 and you could see it fall back on the rollers a bit. as seen here...

Plan to date:

Check engine specs, custom intake, -5's and fuel system to match and life will be good.

I've seen a few vids when GTR's drive past bikes and just gets me wanting, but I still have to be a bit realistic and keep it drivable and not just a top end machine as it will do some interstate drives on occasions.

Had a Heart Failure today when replacing my plugs, No.6 was firm the whole way out and didn't tighten up.

Thought it was going to be an engine out job but found a place in town that Helicoiled it in the car.

That would have been a great excuse for the Missus to accept a rebuild...LOL!!

Edited by Turbo Dave

Locaton slows me down a bit as I don't want to get it rebuilt in my own town.

And I like being married so I tend to tell her the truth.... Most of the time anyway!!

Haven't done comp tests yet might do it next time I do plugs.

What numbers should it read???

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I mean, I can confirm the TPS is at 100%.... I can confirm when we installed the TB and setup the cable that the TB was indeed fully open at max pedal travel.. the same 'curve' (WRT MAP vs MAP) existed with the previous setup/TB/manifold as well... No, we did not do a run with no intake connected. I would love to go back in time to do such a run to rule out the intake. It would have also been good to do a run with the airbox lid off. There's a test there where increased IAT vs more available air could be a positive tradeoff. I remember taking the lid off my R34 Turbo setup back in the day and noticing a monster increase, even if IAT's did go up. Could be similar. Hard to test unless I find a very deserted road. 
    • That's actually encouraging to be honest. my motor was rebuild many years ago but it's probably done less than 30,000kms and fucc all limiter or drift, majority street / drag / roll racing. It'll be fine 馃挭馃徏 I don't even have lines or a can for the cam breathers installed yet, there is zero oil residue or splatter on or around them, it drives beautifully so it seems healthy. Just a ticky lifter, yet they're almost brand new oem genuine Nissan and haven't done many kms at all...
    • Have you confirmed the throttle body goes to WOT (and stays there) during the run?
    • I'm having a problem. I think it was mentioned above somewhere but can't see it.  I'm stuck in the cycle of, sand, filler, low spot again, put filler, sand, low spot again, now i put filler again and a thicker portion which seems to have helped but I got low spots in other areas. In the image. Circled in red thats where the original low spot was and the shape is the same as the red out line. I've more or less fixed that (still low spot up the top but now I have low spots where the green circled part is.  Is likely the issue that I didn't start with a course sand paper? I sanded the filler with 240 to reduce the risk of not going to far but maybe the issue is that I'm only taking off enough material to remove some of the filler but not the high spots. I now started sanding with 120 and I think I'm seeing a difference. I did fix one dent the other 2 are f**ked and seems like I made another low spot which is indicated by the furthest green circle on the left handside. Any thoughts and solutions?   Also second image. All of these rock chips, can they be filled in with primer or do i need to fill them all with filler/putty? So many rock chips on mine lol.
    • Well, I had an Edward Lee's special edition odo windback car/motor with a RB25DET S2 and I put down 372kW with a good amount of track abuse for 1.5 years before the ring lands decided it didn't want to stick around anymore 馃ゲ But probably didn't help I kept on smashing try limiter on the track and a few skid pans.
  • Create New...