Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi all,

A couple of weeks ago I had he joy of being car no. 6 in a 7 car pile up on the F3 :D unfortunatley the front end of the car was pushed back enough for the insurance company to deem it as a write off. I am now selling the whole car as is, and before you start asking for specific parts I would prefer to try and sell it as a whole first. This car was my pride and joy and anyone who knew it knows how well it was kept, inside & out, aswell as meticulously serviced! Before this fateful day the car was making 272kw at the wheels.

I'm asking for $7000, which sounds significant, but when you consider the parts that are in it, aswell as the condition of many of the standard parts/interior/panels, its worth it. They could be sold seperately for a higher total value, however I really need the money available to me sooner!

Ok, so heres what was in it that WASN'T standard and is still undamaged:

Turbosmart E-Boost2

GT30R Turbo with actuator and associated piping to suit R33 S2

SARD Fuel pressure regulator

550 injectors (cant' remember the brand sorry)

Bosch 040 fuel pump

Exedy clutch, not brass button, 5puk from memory, still plenty of bite!

K&N Pod filter

Z32 AFM

Greddy BOV

Greddy oil catch can

Front and rear strut braces

3.5inch turbo back exhaust (xforce)

Kenwood double din touchscreen DVD player with 4x Kenwood 6inch speakers

QFM A1RM Brake pads front and rear (only 2weeks old!)

The Standard parts that are still good!

All seats

Original charcoal floor mats

Front left quarter panel

BOTH doors

Side skirts

Boot

Rear tail lights

Many more things I should probably list, but aren't coming to mind! Please feel free to request more/specific information and further pictures can be provided of any part of the car upon request.

**PLEASE NOTE**

The wheels shown on the car in the pictures are NOT for sale, as I have put them on my new car. It comes with standard 300ZX wheels with 75% tread on them. (225/50/16)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/334466-wrecking-r33-gts-t-series-ii/
Share on other sites

Post prices for items, or this will be locked.

Forum rules are clear and simple

Trying to sell the car as a whole for $7000 ono (willing to negotiate, considering towing costs etc)

I'm not posting prices for individual items yet as I'm hoping I can sell the car as a whole. If I decide to part the car out a full list of prices will be provided, however I'm holding off on having to pull it all apart!

also willing to reduce the price by excluding 1 or 2 items (such as the sound system or brake setup) as I can use them on my new car. Minus these items i would accept 6k.

DVD system is a Kenwood DDX 7032, works perfectly, comes with box, manual, USB cable, RCA cables etc.

Not willing to seperate with the turbo atm, still hoping to sell the car as a whole.

I do, however I'm going to wait just a couple more weeks to see if anyone will buy the car whole. if not, i will inform you when I start parting it out.

regards.

  • 3 weeks later...

if I don't have a buyer for the car by the weekend (waiting to hear back from someone) I will begin parting the car out. In which case, I will give those who have already asked for parts priority and price the parts they have requested. I will update the prices of items as i manage to get them off the car, however feel free to ask for parts and prices!

Regards,

Sam.

*********UPDATE******************

ALL the running gear from the car and front brakes have been sold as a complete package.

This means that all other parts are now up for grabs, here is a short list of parts already pulled off the car ready to go, more parts and prices to come as I take them off the car, but feel free to make requests!

- Front left fog light assembly - $40

- Windscreen washer nozzles - $20

- Factory R33 Sideskirts - $150

- Genuine Nissan Dark Charcoal floormats, all very well maintained, in excellent condition - $80

- Genuine Nissan clearside indicators - $50

pics of specific parts to come!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • So thing that had me stumped, but I think is OK....is that when it was up in the air, in neutral I had it running to bleed to coolant while I put the wheels back on. I noticed the rears were turning (slowly) which I'd never seen before 20250928_163512.mp4     Because there had been an issue with clutch slip due to pedal adjustment on the dyno, I assumed there was still and issue so spent some quality time upside down under the dash adjusting the pedal....but no matter what I did the wheels still turned in neutral. Even disconnected the master cylinder to pedal rod and same. In despair, I even removed the clutch slave so there was no chance of any preload causing it.....still happened. So either: 1. Something is not right in the bellhousing, or 2. Its a thing sometimes with cold, thick gearbox oil Internet says it might be 2, I hope so!
    • OK, few more things sorted and it is ready for a shakedown on 10-Oct, with one weird thing. Changed the run in oil and filter for the good stuff. 8l came out, about 8.5 went in with filter so that looks all good. Changed the starter (again), this time for a brand new one, works good. Interesting that the Taaaarks one is shorter than factory but spins harder, I guess electronics have moved on a little in the last 30 years. Will be nice to have a bit of extra space under there. Put the timing cover back on, and noted where the cam gears were set as a record.  Will need to double check the timing but it is pretty close. Also put the coil pack cover and intake snorkel back on. Exhaust Inlet Changed the water out for coolant, bled up nicely. Removed the rear brake pads (well worn factory sumitomo ones!), gave the hardware a good clean and reassembled. I've put bendix XP on the back again because the price is excellent at $150 a set and they worked well on the V37. Front pads have plenty so no issue there
    • Mine is all -12, I’m running a dry sump in a billet block though 
    • HG's high flow is not "bolt on". The core is shorter, moves the comp cover rearwards in the engine bay. means you have to deal with the inlet plumbing a little bit. This is probably something to consider with every "bolt on" turbo anyway.
×
×
  • Create New...