Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

When I had Falcon and Commonwhore hire cars, I could see the trip computer drop by about 0.1 or 0.2 l/hr from drive to neutral.

Has to make some tiny difference as you are no longer sloshing around the fluid in the torque converter... I think this is one of the reasons why CVTs have such good fuel consumption, as they actually have a clutch pack that completely disengages whilst stationary...

In the UK people who have driving lessons in autos are taught to move the transmission into Neutral and apply the handbrake when stationary, as this is what you would do in a manual vehicle. Prevents accidents caused by people who might accidently take their foot off the brake pedal.

Also means you can't quickly get going either. I vote drive. :)

In Western Australia or Queensland you are taught to have it in nuetral with a manual or an auto with the handbrake applied when stationary at a set of lights.

One explanation was that it was safer than in drive or clutched with your foot on the brake in case someone hits you from behind. I guess the theory was if someone smacked you up the bum your foot would naturally come off the brake and you'd roll into the lights.

I personally thought that was a bit stupid, if you get rear ended hard enough doesnt really matter does it? Your gonna go crashing out into the intersection.. regardless of how you are braking.

I personally think its something made for idiots (the handbrake rule) as all i can see it does is prevent idiots from rolling forwards in drive and backwards in neutral.

But in regards to it being in neutral didnt know that about the clutch packs.. I'll be keeping it in drive now after reading this thread and learning more changes equals more wear.

well I cant see either way doing any harm or providing any (measurable) benefit.

which is why I say just leave it in drive and worry about more important things. If your auto is going to break, it isn't going to be because you switched to neutral and back a couple of times, nor are the clutch packs going to wear out because you left it in drive while stationary.

On the other hand, any fuel savings from putting the car in neutral would be less than 10c when it came time to refuel...and even that is being generous. Cars dont use that much fuel when idle. Its the stopping and starting that uses the fuel, not the time spent sitting stationary (unless of course you're stationary for 30 mins or something, in which case its bad for the car to be idling for that long anyway, no matter whether its in neutral or drive).

Much ado about nothing really...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • And one last super random thought, I remember when SAUNSW had a dinner with Alan Heaphy, and another with Fred Gibson there was talk of the R32 GTR cast alloy uprights failing in racing, and one of the things Fred did when they had to add weight to the vehicle was taken the failing alloy uprights, and have them made of steel. Does anyone remember back to 1990/1991/1992 and WHAT was failing in the front hubs/uprights?
    • If you truly want to know how the original failed though, was it a factory defect possibly etc, send it off for investigation. Would probably cost a shit tonne.   The ones that you need to win lotto for, unless you have a good reason for that part to be bolt on, I'd probably roll with getting a few small stitch welds carefully put in place as an extra safety factor once everything is all torqued up tight
    • Are you sure? Because I wouldn't necessarily be. Do we even know the material they've made the new uprights from?   Looking at the fractures in the earlier pics, it does to me look like both a twisting, and levering upward action doing the damage, so you're hoping for both compression, and tension. Depending on the bolts, they can stretch (even high grade bolts will) and now you're hoping for the threads themself not to stretch, as if they do, bye bye mating surfaces holding together, hello bolts now going into shear.
    • Lets say I wanted to buy this, specifically for this purpose. How do I actually perform the function. Can I still buy a Consult-1? Am I about to be burned by the fact my car is a 2000 model Series 2 R34 and thus will be some stupid other system? Do I just need this -> https://obd2australia.com.au/product/nissan-consult-14-pin-to-usb-ddl-diagnostic-interface-with-ftdi-ft232r-chip/ And with what software?
    • That's probably OK. That's a face to face compression joint between two surfaces with the clamping load provided by those bolts. So.... it's unlikely that the bolts will end up feeling that load in shear, unless the clamping surfaces are not large enough, bolts not got enough tension on them, etc etc to prevent the two faces from moving wrt each other. Which... I would hope the designers have considered, seeing as it's probably one of the most important things the upright has to do apart from resist collapsing in its own right. But yes, it would definitely be worth asking them what their safety factor on that part of the design was. I tend to think that the casting, being a casting, is not necessarily the strongest bit of material in the world. It's about an inch square, and when you think about the loads that are being put into it, you have to wonder what safety factor the Nissan boys (and every other OEM engineer who has designed all the millions of other uprights that look essentially the same) used to account for defective casting, aging, severe impacts on the wheel, etc etc. 
×
×
  • Create New...