Jump to content
SAU Community

Q For Tuners - Possible To Tune Without Iac Valve?

dori34

By dori34,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

dori34 Grand Master

dori34

Posted
Posted

Hi gang, i just had a custom plenum nade for my 34 neo and ariel left the iac valve off as he advised me to check with my tuner first to see how he would prefer it mounted etc. as its off already and no plates have been welded, i was wondering if its possible to tune and allow the car to run/idle normally with it removed? If not, what will be a side effect of not running one?

i've read that the 34 setups are diff to 33 and most neo boys used 33 iac and tb. if i'm unable to tune it without the iac then whats needed to fit and get the 33 iac working. do the plugs fit or they need to be rewired ? does it matter if its from s1 or s2?

any help much appreciated :D cheers

Rolls Grand Master

Rolls

Posted
Posted

If you remove it how will the car idle? The throttle body is closed so there will be no source of air!

Definitely need an idle air control valve. Whether you can use a different one depends on how they are wired up, I imagine they are just a duty cycled solenoid much like an injector, so as long as the tuning software allows adjustment of the gain factor for the valve you should be able to really use anything.

Feel free to correct me if I am wrong though.

DVS JEZ Grand Master

DVS JEZ

Posted
Posted

it is best to have it or you can put an adjuster screw onto the throttle body to hold the throttle open slightly, this is a bodgy way as there is no adjustment for idle up during air con, lights on etc

put it in an easily accessible place that looks neat/ hidden. you will need to be able to run the hose from it to the intercooler pipe just before the throttle body

dori34 Grand Master

dori34

Posted
  • Author
Posted

hey fellas, cheers for the response.

will be running a nistune so i guess it would be best to have it installed. i'll look into fitting a r33 iac instead and hopefully i can find some information somehwere. i have a/c still and would like to keep it.

STATUS Grand Master

STATUS

Posted
Posted
hey fellas, cheers for the response.

will be running a nistune so i guess it would be best to have it installed. i'll look into fitting a r33 iac instead and hopefully i can find some information somehwere. i have a/c still and would like to keep it.

nistune will freak,

but like guilt-toy said generally it is no issue, map sensor based ecu's dont really care either way, but iac equiped car will always behave nicer especially on the street..

if its nistune use the r34 iac setup remote mounted.

dori34 Grand Master

dori34

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Hey trent, cheers for the info. can you enlighten me more on remotely mounting it.. does this mean i have to block the rear of the valve with a plate and tap a feed to the top of the valve instead? ariel mentioned something about this and said to consult with my tuner but i'm finding it so hard to get in contact with unigroup to get some answers..

PM-R33 Grand Master

PM-R33

Posted
Posted (edited)
it is best to have it or you can put an adjuster screw onto the throttle body to hold the throttle open slightly, this is a bodgy way as there is no adjustment for idle up during air con, lights on etc

put it in an easily accessible place that looks neat/ hidden. you will need to be able to run the hose from it to the intercooler pipe just before the throttle body

RB25 throttle bodies have the adjustment screw allready there.

Just to quickly clarify, AAC (Auxiliary Air Control) is the hose that goes into the intercooler pipe to feed extra air into the engine when the throttle is shut and IAC (Idle Air Control) is the hose from the heater that feeds warm air into the engine when warming up, correct?

Question, how is it that a lot of cars from factory run fine without AAC (Such as a JZA80 Supra). Is it because they are map sensored so it makes it easier? I have tried pissing my AAC off back in the day but the Microtech simply hated it even though it is MAP sensored. So what's the go?

Edited by PM-R33
STATUS Grand Master

STATUS

Posted
Posted
RB25 throttle bodies have the adjustment screw allready there.

Just to quickly clarify, AAC (Auxiliary Air Control) is the hose that goes into the intercooler pipe to feed extra air into the engine when the throttle is shut and IAC (Idle Air Control) is the hose from the heater that feeds warm air into the engine when warming up, correct?

Question, how is it that a lot of cars from factory run fine without AAC (Such as a JZA80 Supra). Is it because they are map sensored so it makes it easier? I have tried pissing my AAC off back in the day but the Microtech simply hated it even though it is MAP sensored. So what's the go?

yeah map sensors dont actually get effected by minor airflow pulses etc so generally dont try compensate... hence rock solid idle.

You can even drill a small hole in the butterfly to help stabilise the idle.

but like previously mentioned its not all that nice for everyday streeters that need pwr steer, a/c etc load compensation.

PM-R33 Grand Master

PM-R33

Posted
Posted (edited)

Only reason I wanted to piss it off back in the day was due to not wanting to run the extra hose when going to the Plazmaman plenum. Now it doesn't really worry me since it is allready set up. It was mainly a "neater" option to not run one at the time :happy:

Edited by PM-R33
STATUS Grand Master

STATUS

Posted
Posted
will just end up getting the plenum modded to fit the IAC, would make life alot easier :D

why is the iac mount missing? is it an old version?

the ones on the website are like the one i had in the shop, had a bolt on position for the stock IAC.

THROTTLE%20BODY%208.jpg

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Black_CSR
      Wheel Sizes & Offsets For Skylines

      By Black_CSR · Posted

      Yeh I think i'll message an old contact i had for ages that manages his own tyre shop now.. n tell him what i want n work with him before ordering..  Got this 17x9 +30 Driftteks on 245/45/17 PSR Drag Radials on the rear.. They fit well - for your reference in future - Rear guards  have been lipped in & minimal to non flaring of the rear Gaurds.    
    • Kinkstaah
      Wheel Sizes & Offsets For Skylines

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      If only it were that easy! I also needed to remove seats, shocks, brake calipers, send my car through a fence, and use measuring and ended up guessing because I didn't remove seats, shocks and brake calipers. It can be hard sometimes Can be a little more complex than 'just measure' if you want to truly measure the entire wheel through all of it's suspension travel. But if you aren't going for every last mm then yeah, you can check the space you currently have and guesstimate.
    • GTSBoy
      Wheel Sizes & Offsets For Skylines

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      If you own a car, and it has wheels on it, and you know the offset of those wheels, and you have a measuring device, you have everything you need to work out if other wheels will fit.
    • Black_CSR
      Wheel Sizes & Offsets For Skylines

      By Black_CSR · Posted

      Will this fit? but they are staggered set - RAYS 57DR SEMI GLOSS BLACK 18x8.5 +37 | 18x9.5 +38 5-114.3 STAGGERED SET   or If no go could just get a set 4's wheels of 18x8.5 +37 5-114.3 - would i run 8.5's 235s up front n 245's at the back if I do?   Thanks.        
    • MBS206
      MAJOR FUEL ISSUES 25det neo r32

      By MBS206 · Posted

      Put a clamp on your return line. I have a feeling it's sucking air, and introducing bubbles to your fuel. With a lot of fuel, less problematic. I'd honestly be redoing all the lines in the tank and clamps on everything.   Also, you've given two different answers to the same question: Asked if being followed by the police you could get down to use the whole tank, you said yes you could, so long as you keep off boost. However, you then followed this up that free revving, it would also cause the issues. I'm doubting free revving is enough to make any noticeable boost on what is likely a decent sized turbo.   So now I have to ask, can you actually drive it lightly and use all the fuel, or does it break up even free revving? Also, have you put a fuel pressure gauge on it? Can you hear the pump change noise at all when you're having this issue?
×
×
  • Create New...