Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hello guys,

I have been reading through many threads on little ways to get increased performance from a stock cooler a skyline.

There are many theories including removing panals etc. I thought we should put all the ideas on a single thread.

If you have any great ideas for stock cooler performance lets hear them!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/33542-more-flow-from-the-stock-cooler/
Share on other sites

For Performance?

Throw it out.

For a small upgrade, water spray is the only really worthwhile thing

cost vs effort vs result that i could think of.

Moving it to the front & re-piping it is useless unless you can do it in your spare time.

Paying for it to be done is a waste.

Even though your paying for it with your own time though really when you think about it.

well i was told to take the plastic cover from the passengers wheel arch off so help the flow. So i did. Dunno if it makes a difference. I guess u could make up a plastic scoop of some sort to grab the air and direct it through the cooler. S15's i know of have this system, maybe something to think about. But yeah i dont think there is much u could do. Maybe the most effective thing to do would be unbolt it and clean it out with degreaser or something and let it dry in the sun. Get the oil film outta it

I always thought if u attached some good sized heatsinks to the outside of the intercooler that may help dissipate the heat that it generates a bit? Very ghetto mod though, but wonder if it would work? Works on a CPU :worship:

The only way it can perform better is by improving the flow to the core and adding a water spray.

Even than it is a flow restriction once the boost in increased to around 12psi so not really worth the time to play with if you are running muchover stock boost.

Why not plumb oil through it and use it as an oil cooler, then mount a nice big front mount and plumb it up to the turbo and inlet manifold.

Alternatively fill the std intercooler with cement and stich a piece of chain into in before it sets (should make a great boat anchor)

- remove and clean out thoroughly with some sort of degreaser

- Cut a hole in the perforated plastic panel behind it (removing it entirely makes the front bar a little less stable)

- make up a plastic surround to channel (force) all of the air through the core.

- definitely don't mount it at the front, waste of time and you'd look like an idiot :worship:, also it will actually get better airflow in the stock pposition where air can flow "through it" and out the back

- as mentioned, a good upgrade (& cheap) is an r34 gtt intercooler.

the panel at the back and the ducting is a good idea. The cooler is pretty crappy in design, it's size isn't too bad tho'. The R34 intercooler is slightly larger but suffers from the same crappy end tank design and core, should work a little better all the same.

instead of water spray, why not mount a small electric fan behind it to suck air through (ie a fan from a motorbike)... cheap although probably most effective at helping the intercooler cool off ffrom heat soak, rather than reducing the intake temp

- remove and clean out thoroughly with some sort of degreaser

- Cut a hole in the perforated plastic panel behind it (removing it entirely makes the front bar a little less stable)

- make up a plastic surround to channel (force) all of the air through the core.

- definitely don't mount it at the front, waste of time and you'd look like an idiot :(, also it will actually get better airflow in the stock pposition where air can flow "through it" and out the back

- as mentioned, a good upgrade (& cheap) is an r34 gtt intercooler.

i agree wholeheartedly with the above however, the best material for making a duct to surround the IC is 1mm aluminium sheeting. it is quite easy to work with & cheap when you ask for offcuts.

instead of water spray, why not mount a small electric fan behind it to suck air through (ie a fan from a motorbike)... cheap although probably most effective at helping the intercooler cool off ffrom heat soak, rather than reducing the intake temp

Speaking as someone with no idea; this one sounds good. Anyone else think so?

Speaking as someone with no idea; this one sounds good.  Anyone else think so?

No :D

The fan would push less air through the core than the airflow at 60kph

Great when sitting in traffic but then the fan would be a restriction once you start moving again :Oops:

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • My guesstimate, with no real numbers to back it up, is it won't effect it greatly at all.its not a huge change in position, and I can't see the air flow changing from in turbulence that much based on distance, and what's in front of it. Johnny and Brad may have some more numbers to share from experience though.
    • Which solenoid? Why was it changed? Again, why was this done? ...well, these wear..but ultimately, why was it changed? Did you reset the idle voltage level after fitment? I'm just a tad confused ~ the flash code doesn't allude to these items being faulty, so in my mind the only reason to change these things, would be some drive-ability issue....and if that's the case, what was the problem? Those questions aside, check if the dropping resistor is OK ...should be 11~14 ohms (TCU doesn't throw a flash code for this) ~ also, these TCU designs have full time power (to keep fault code RAM alive), and I think that'll throw a logic code (as opposed to the 10 hardware codes), if that power is missing (or the ram has gone bad in the TCU, which you can check..but that's another story here perhaps).
    • Question for people who "know stuff" I am looking at doing the new intake like the one in the picture (the pictured is designed for the OEM TB and intake plenum), this design has the filter behind the front bar, but, the filter sits where the OEM duct heads into the front bar, and the standard aperture when the OEM ducting is removed allows the filter to pulled back out of the front bar into the engine bay for servicing, a simple blanking plate is used to seal the aperture behind the filter This will require a 45° silicone hose from the TB, like the alloy pipe that is currently there, to another 45° silicone hose to get a straight run to the aperture in the front bar Question: how will it effect the tune if I move the MAF about 100-150mm forward, the red is around where my MAF is currently, and the green would be where it would end up Like this This is the hole the filter goes through  Ends up like this LOL..Cheers    
    • Despite the level up question, actually I do know what that is....it is a pressure sender wire.  So check out around the oil filter for an oil pressure sender, or maybe fuel pressure near the filter or on the engine. Possibly but less likely coolant pressure sensor because they tend to be combined temp/pressure senders if you have one. Could also be brake pressure (in a brake line somewhere pre ABS) but maybe I'm the only one that has that on a skyline.
    • Pull codes via the self-diagnosis procedure. As far as I can tell this is just a sign of transmission issues but not a code unto itself.
×
×
  • Create New...