Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 79
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Yeah it's a typo it's $1963 there is a cost for the internal gate housings as the Twin Scoll external gate version that i was looking at getting only came to $1770 posted. For $1963 you could probably find one here but make sure it's the full 60mm turbine wheel version not the cropped 56.5mm version.

Stao @ Hypergear can do 2871/3071 CHRA-based highflows for factory RB25 turbos .. though if you already have a 2530 probably not an option (unless you still have the old turbo floating around).

They aren't as efficient as the Garrett version with the proper Garrett housings. But you pay the price difference. The HKS Turbine housings are even better again.

Edited by D_Stirls
Stao @ Hypergear can do 2871/3071 CHRA-based highflows for factory RB25 turbos .. though if you already have a 2530 probably not an option (unless you still have the old turbo floating around).
They aren't as efficient as the Garrett version with the proper Garrett housings. But you pay the price difference. The HKS Turbine housings are even better again.

hence now i have decided to go with a Garret unit

Just keep the factory one that you have taken off and swap it back. Won't take more than a couple hours on a GTT and after you have done it a couple times you be able to do it in under 90 minutes.

With my car i have a complete stock engine setup so if i get defected with the built engine i'll just swap the whole engine over, a lot easier than taking cam out, swapping injectors, reattaching all the emissions stuff and standard IAA.

Edited by D_Stirls

Yeah there's a few things you have to do in terms of Transport SA for this to work but i'll discuss this with you in person rather than on a public forum Are you on my FB?

EDIT!!

Just added you

Edited by D_Stirls
.63 rear housing should see me 300rwkw on 25??? mind you its going to be internal gated

On pump i would say no, My HKS3037.68 was seeing around the 270 mark at 17-18psi. E85 would see you over 300 but you will need 20+psi.

Cams would make a huge difference

I personally wouldn't waste my money on aftermarket cams (they do sound nice tho). I have seen 180or200's car make 430 odd on E85 with stock cams so they cant be that bad a thing.

When you say Huge difference what do you actually mean????10kw?50kw?

they help make more power on less boost. So in a stock engine you can run 300 rwkw without having to push 20+ psi to get there. thats where cams come in handy! its a lot safer on the engine and you get some nice response gains to boot.

with my neo i gainedpower and response EVERYWHERE from fitting a set of drop in cams... and also runs less boost to make same power.

i dont know much first hand about rb cams but r33 rb25 just doesn't pull like a r34 rb25. 34 just has better power over the whole range.. personally i feel 33 cams are lacking. cams are cheapish and more power is always better. ohh and ebay has wicked prices. im soon to be cammed up with adj cam gears awaiting delivery! :(

they help make more power on less boost. So in a stock engine you can run 300 rwkw without having to push 20+ psi to get there. thats where cams come in handy! its a lot safer on the engine and you get some nice response gains to boot.

with my neo i gainedpower and response EVERYWHERE from fitting a set of drop in cams... and also runs less boost to make same power.

Have you got before and after graphs? From what i have read on this forum 10rwkw is about all you will gain from drop in cams (Mid range is improved also obviously).....If that is the case i think i will leave my stock cams in and save all the hassles.

the difference that you feel between a stock r33 and r34 has to do with the size difference in turbos rather then cams.

Plus the NEO has the Solid Cams already standard which are from all accounts a much better thing than the 25DET's

I'm constantly hearing how bigger cams give more power and better response...........def more power, but not so sure about the latter.

Unless your upgraded sticks have less duration than stock and subsequently a shorter overlap, your fatter cams will move the power curve higer in the rev range (which = less response)...........but why would anyone upgrade their cams with less duaration just to gain response, seems to defeat the whole purpose of the upgrade cause the stock items then would ultimately produce more power.

Years ago when i was playing around with N/A V8's that was the case with larger cams(average low down but alot better mid-top end grunt). Lets face it 2.5 litres and low down off boost grunt (under 3000rpm) is a moot point anyway.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Long time no random post about shit. So I went down this deep deep rabbit hole of battery storage for the home, ended up locking in a 41.9kWh Fox ESS EQ4800 with 9 units stacked. Battery uses Lithium Iron Phosphate, similar to what you find in those deep cycle boat/caravan batteries. And yes, why did I go with a cheapie brand and not like Synergy? simply because I don't plan to stay at this house for more than another 3~5 years.  The entire install, DC coupling (removal of existing invertor, connecting the current 6.6kW array direct to the battery invertor), new 8kW invertor is $6K all up (after all the rebates etc.). Going with this lot: https://www.aussiesolarbatteries.com.au/ It did seem a bit too good to be true, however seems like the Whirlpool community has vetted it and when it comes to this kind of stuff, they seem to be all over it: https://forums.whirlpool.net.au/thread/9pxj8482?p=38   I've requested for the battery to be installed outside, next to my meter board and not inside - rather have it combust and ignite outside lol.    
    • In Vic it would be a defect regardless of whether or not you cut a hole in the sheetmetal for the return pipe. The rules in Vic are shitful, and are generally interpreted as you can "make 2 mods to the intake system". Putting an FFP and an FMI onto it will almost certainly be seen as some huge number of intake mods. You really need to speak to an engineer before doing this stuff in VIC.
    • planning a r34 rb25 de+t with some other work, rather just have it done in a shop due to space limitations any recommendations? I have most the parts already I seen online Moore Performance and DR Drift any advice appreciated thanks 
    • I’ve read the previous posts so just looking for latest information on how people have dealt with front facing plenum is it a defect etc or didn’t pass roadworthy or was it not noticed? Have a r34 and deciding if I should make a hole on the driver side or not.  I know some people have said blitz return flow but I might get rid of the stock intake down the line for a plenum so I rather set up for that now plus I already have a standard Intercooler. Car is mainly stock  Thanks. 
    • Actually, if having and keeping the stock ECU is the plan, the correct answer is to put Nistune into the ECU and improve the situation, not just look at it.
×
×
  • Create New...