Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey Peeps I could do with some different opinions on this one

I used to run a EMU (E-Manage Ultimate) on my 33 gtst and have since changed over to a PFC as I felt it would be a better option for me.

Any way I ran the GTR plug n play N-4 harness which required the wire swap as shown

post-31195-1283597085_thumb.jpg

but I didnt do the swap myself i left it up to crd when they installed and tuned it.

Since I have been running the PFC my new tuner has had a problem with the engine check light staying on and have tried just about everything to get to the bottom of it and i was just wondering if any of you could tell me if the wire swap for the emu would be done on the actual cars harness or are they swapped on the N-4 harness???

My tuner (Yavuz, Unigroup) is at a loss as to whats going on and the weird thing is that when the air con is turned on the check light turns off. I dont get it.

We have tried checking the exhuast temp sender/sensor- its fine

02 sensor-fine

all other wiring seems ok

the only thing we have found is when the light turns off with the A/C one of (I cant remember which) the voltage readings on his hand controller goes up heaps.

I have been getting a lot of help from Matt (MBS206) who is a top bloke for trying to help me sus this out and we are gonna have a good look over it tomorrow.

It does not effect the running or driving of the car in any way and sometimes wont come on for weeks, Ive even done a full track day without it comming on. Then at other times (like the last few days) it stays on for weeks as well.

I know its only a light but its driving me insane :happy: Ive read through both EMU and PFC stickys and thought that MAYBE the default boost controller setting on the PFC is on but I think the light would stay on all the time??? Paulr33, you out there???

Cmon guys, Brainstorming time. Im open to any suggestions that may help us track it down so I dont have to drag Matt away from Texi for too long tomorrow.

Cheers

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/335554-changed-from-emu-to-pfc/
Share on other sites

powerfc basics 101

read the pfc FAQ on how to work out why the engine check light is on

or you can use the online hand controller emulator and check out ETC, SENSOR SW CHECK

any sensor that is out of range, toast, not working, dead turns on the engine check light and will be highlighted in this screen in black background

Ah ok thanks Paul I'll try it. I did read the FAQ but didn't have a play with the emulator.

I'm a newb when it comes to playing around with ecu's and have always thought it best left to the pros if I wasn't sure what I was doing

going to the basic 101 faq here will not help in this case. Not a chance.

Just wondering, when you said the voltage goes up heaps, what voltage are you talking about ? AFM ? have you tried to swap the PFC out with another unit ? have you tried using a R33 rb25 pfc?

It is an r33 rb25 PFC (was thizzles old one) to honest I can't remember which voltage it was. My hc isn't compatible with my version of the PFC so I'm waiting on a new one. Yavuz did check all the obvious things like afm o2 blah blah and said theywere all fine.

That's what has got us stumped. All the "normal" things came up ok.

You know yourself guilt-toy, yavuz is VERY thorough with these things

Yup.

Hate to say it, but you are screwed. If Yavus cannot figure it out posting about the issue on the forums is a waste of time as well as taking it to any other tuners.

Have no other suggestions for you but to try another ECU. Problem with that is that even if you have datalogit saving and re-loading the tune from Power FC to Power FC does not work 100% of the time. I have owned 3 power FC's at the same time when I was playing with my car before i left Australia and I have witnessed this first hand (Long story it was during my transition to Vipec)

Good luck with it, keep me posted if you can I am interested in the outcome.

You know yourself guilt-toy, yavuz is VERY thorough with these things

Yeh I know what your saying GT, it was actually a suggestion from Yavuz just go see if anybody has had this kind of issue with a PFC before cause he's never seen it.

I spose I could send it away go be checked out and see if it has a faulty chip/wiring etc but he also sId he has had mixed results with that as well.

Always the way eh, as you know it took me sooooo long to get one and now it's playing up.

The main reason we want to sort it out is as soon as my datalogit turns up we are going E85 so although "just" a light I'd prefer to have an ecu that is in perfect working order for swithing maps and what not to avoid any possible corruption of data.

Buuuuuut if like you said it dosent work 100% of the time maybe I should look at something like Vipec or Haltech, depends on Yavuz wants to tune.

I might send you a pm later about the iner workings and viabilty of the vipec on my setup of your up for it?

Ta

I mean that it does not work 100% of the time when your loading one map from one Apexi Power FC to another Apexi Power FC using Datalogit. (if you were to test another unit borrowed from a friend or something)

If you tuned both maps on the same power fc then it works 100%, its when moving a map to another computer that could give you issues.

get me?

When i found the issue even cruise was not right, but if i re-tuned that actual computer everything would work fine... Weird huh?

So yeah loading maps to the same ecu you tuned it with is fine.

Sure shoot me a PM. I am a Vipec dealer now so try not to ask me if you "should" change over because you know what the answer would be :P

PS do not mention the V word around Yavus =) he is more of a A man ! hahahahaa

Buuuuuut if like you said it dosent work 100% of the time maybe I should look at something like Vipec or Haltech, depends on Yavuz wants to tune.

Ta

Ok, I've had a look through my old emanage installation booklet and I assume the wire change/swap is done on the emanage harness and not on the gtst's (or cars) harness if that makes sense.

Could someone with an emanage ultimate who installed it themselves confirms this for me so I can eliminate that theory.

Cheers

I mean that it does not work 100% of the time when your loading one map from one Apexi Power FC to another Apexi Power FC using Datalogit. (if you were to test another unit borrowed from a friend or something)

If you tuned both maps on the same power fc then it works 100%, its when moving a map to another computer that could give you issues.

get me?

When i found the issue even cruise was not right, but if i re-tuned that actual computer everything would work fine... Weird huh?

So yeah loading maps to the same ecu you tuned it with is fine.

Sure shoot me a PM. I am a Vipec dealer now so try not to ask me if you "should" change over because you know what the answer would be :D

PS do not mention the V word around Yavus =) he is more of a A man ! hahahahaa

Yeah the powerfC has some pretty weird idiosyncrasy,

ive had about 5 cases of plug in hand controller when running and car stalls, wont start and tunes are corrupt... reload tune and do it 5 mins later and its all good.

loading in base maps and the numbers being show are correct but car wont tune up right...... 3 or 4 pfc's. Have to open 2 sessions and cut and paste each map and write individually.

i was off site today so havent had achance to study the ecu pinout to trace the ac circuit yet sorry.

No worries Trent,

hey you would know this, as I said in the pm I sent you my hc is not the right one for my PFC, will that new EL commander work with ANY version of gtst PFC? Cause I'll order one tomorrow.

I'll also drop into my tuners and find out exactly what voltage it was that spikes when the ac is turned on

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • You don’t need to use full throttle all the time to break these blocks, 500kw at the wheels in more then enough to break them even with an occasional squirt. Hell I’ve seen them break under 400kw
    • A work around is to install the R35 card style AFM/MAF on the cold side of the intercooler piping and the BOV on the hot side piping. Works well, also you can combat the revs dropping by adding a bit more ignition timing on the idle ignition timing table to slow the rate of RPM drop.
    • Understood. If you dont have a ridiculous limit,  Tune, T's and P's are in check, and arent bashing it all the time and doing the due deligence for maintenance(inc oil analysis) then its pretty safe. 100% agree, let your right food control it to some extent.
    • So these external kits with the machined block for remote solenoid mount will only work on a NEO head and RB30 or RB26 bottom end   For an R33 head on a 26 bottom end the remote vct kit is to resolve RB26 manifold adaptor plates etc  IF you try to use the remote VCT on an RB30 or RB26 bottom end with an R33 head then  you can starve the cam journal??? I have one of these kits from bits I had years ago before plans changed  I don't understand how that tracks with this video   https://youtu.be/RuPiI22Mplk?feature=shared   This looks like I can run the v termite vct kit to feed the VCT on an R33 head on an RB26 bottom end?!?!?   Lol.... don't v have these problems on RB20s
    • Yeah i know that MAF is no no for this type of BoV. The engine has no BoV and "hose/pipes" ..it was all deleted (or probably it was not even on the engine when it was bought  ) It does that "sutututu" noise which i kinda do not want(atmospheric is better IMO...but standalone ECU)  What are the cons of running without blow off on stock RB25DET NEO. It running 5-7 PSI max (it has boost controller)   EDIT: and can Nistune be "tuned" to know there is no BoV to i dont know "know" and be better for a car? I read so many info about no BoV. One guy saying it is bad and hurting the turbo/engine/car and other that it does not...  
×
×
  • Create New...