Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey Guys,

just wondering whether people have used the Just Jap brand intercoolers for GTR's pushing more than 350rwkw

i managed to get 351rwkw still using a stock R34 GTR intercooler on my GTR

but i think it suffers a little from heat soak at that power level, its running over 20psi on -5's

am debating whether to get a 100mm core just jap one?

I can think of 3 R34's making 380rwkw/-5s (20-22psi) through factory coolers down here without a problem.

It sounds like you haven't actually confirmed you are getting soak. Could also be your core could do with a bit of a clean even.

So I'd certainly suggest spending some time checking out your setup in more detail - no point upgrading if you dont know if its a problem.

That said, if you needed to upgrade for that power range i'd be looking in the For Sale and pickup a jap one a bit cheaper :action-smiley-069:

100mm you might not even need to go that big.

(side question, whats the thickness of stock? I cant remember off the top of my head atm :()

take it off at home, good clean with degreaser and a good flush with water, do this till the water comes out the other end clean.

then let dry overnight end in the air with rags over the holes. refit the next morning,

take it off at home, good clean with degreaser and a good flush with water, do this till the water comes out the other end clean.

then let dry overnight end in the air with rags over the holes. refit the next morning,

oh cool

now how do i get the front bar off :action-smiley-069:

stock cooler is about 60mm in the core.

personally I'd go with a 70mm japanese intercooler, like ARC. they are nice and thing. the problem with the 100mm cores is they rob your radiator of almost all it's airflow so you then end up with higher water temps or even overheating problems. then you buy a bigger radiator and the cycle continues and you've suddenly added a whole lot of weight right up the front of the car where you don't want it. have you ever picked up one of those china 100mm GTR coolers? they are bloody heavy. an ARC 70mm core is actually lighter than a factory GTR cooler.

without getting into all the gazillions of possible debates, here is the answer to your first question.

its a tassie built/owned car.

I personally would never put a $2k jap cooler on the front of my car unless i was racing for sheep stations, as they are so easily damaged being fairly expsosed. a while back someone at a set of lights rolled back into my GF's 33 and punched her big dollar blitz cooler with a tow bar :-/ And I had a bit of shit at the track fly up and mangle some rows & fins on mine awhile back also.

cheers

The 100mm drag just jap units don't fit without quite a bit of modification.

None of the factory inlet/outlet pipes line up, the lower mounts don't line up, and you need to hack the rad support away.

Go an ARC like Beer Baron mentioned if you need to upgrade at all.

Edited by James_03

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • This car has run before on this z32 ecu can get the part number for you, I have tried with no AFM it didn’t change anything, I compression tested today 140-150 across all 6 cylinders, also set fuel pressure to 43psi. The only weird thing was cylinder 1 plug was black and fouled other 5 cylinders were just wet with fuel. Spun cas by hand and confirmed injectors are clicking 
    • Since you came here to ask for help, have you thought about answering our questions, that might help us lead you to why it was skipping, or have you given up on getting advice?
    • A 1.5 way is a 2 way. It is just a 2 way with a less aggressive ramp on overrun.
    • The ABS and/or TCS being missing/broken will not cause the engine to misbehave. It just casues CEL to come on and annoy you. The CEL is useless if it is always on, so you have to do the things you have to do to get rid of it, so it can be useful. Being a Stag ECU, then yes, it will not expect TCS to be present. But it will expect ABS to be present and working. You will need to either make the ABS CU talk to the ECU (don't ask me what that will take on an NA R34), and make sure the hardware is working....or, you just need to blank it out in Nistune. Do not persist with the stock ECU. You will just have problems. Gte it Nistuned. Start from there. DO YOU HAVE A BOOST SENSOR? The ECU's boost sensor that it. It is connected to the loom at the rear of the coil cover. Usually rides on the firewall on an R34, but is usually bolted down to a bracket along with all the other crap at the back of the coil cover when a Neo is dropped into another car. If you do not have it, the ECU will shit the bed. So, do you have one?
    • So sadly the fuel pump etc was not it. The pump and filter is new and it is still cutting around 4000 rpm. A read something about ABS/TCS (engine is from stagea and ECU too so no TCS) and i dont know for 100% that my car has ABS. It has ABS "cube" in engine bay but i dont think it works(or at least from my braking experience). Can be something like that?  I will be driving the car next week to Nistune tuner to properly see what is wrong...  
×
×
  • Create New...