Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Here is a plan....

Why do you want 350rwkw, yeh I know you want more power than that other guy but in my mind I would rather have a car with less power that was faster?????

There is nothing worse than beign beaten by something with less power. Take for example my mate in his 180sx...

180@190rwhp = 13.2sec 1/4

R32 @282rwhp = 13.7sec 1/4

I couldn't believe it when he beat me, I have spent heaps more, have more power and yet he beat me.....I don't car cause he's a good friend and I helped him build his car but yousee what I mean. Why not build a car with say 250rwkw (Easy) which will drive better and still be faster than the other one.

Just my 2c worth

Easy...one is setup better....has better mid-range or full range power. Perhaps one has a better matched turbo. My friends S13 with Rb20det and very large turbo and more power than mine is still slower than me cause it has too much lag and its power isn't useable.

Sure, if his is perfectly setup then you have no hope but as less powr is cheaper to build then why not give it a go first.

Originally posted by BOOSTMEISTER

Sorry I am not familiar with your methods of releaving frustration.

But I do know what you mean by saying you have lots of power, just hope the guy in the lane next to you doesn't beat you with less power after you tell him how powrful your car is:D

now that would suck a55

Originally posted by Nismo_Boy

true, but I guess it's the wank factor coming in, you know when some ones asks how power your car has, and you can tell them "340rwkws"......you know what I mean.

Hang a picture of a Keith Black funny car engine in your engine bay, then you can say you have 4000+HP under the bonnet without telling lies.

Also when a car with less quoted HP kicks your ass, there is no come back for that!

(you just gor beaten by a morris minor cause you couldn't get traction).

Oh yeah well I've got 340rwkw!

Also keep in mind, anyone can pull a good dyno figure, just find the highest reading dyno around and roll it up. Here in Perth I've seen 40 rear wheel HP difference's on the same car but different dyno's. The only way you can seriously compare dyno figures is if both cars are run on the same dyno same day.

Rob

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • This sounds like a perfect excuse to install a Haltech R3.
    • I do believe from context he is talking about a S0/S1 R33 RB25 with associated ECU and Wiring for that, and a manual gearbox into a R34 N/A Auto. I don't have the knowledge of all the pinouts and such but my gut feeling from doing my own conversion is to use as much of the R33 stuff that you can. The "car" wiring is quite seperate from the "Engine" wiring when all things are considered. The only things to truly consider 99% of the time is the cluster, reverse lights and potentially disabling the 'not in P/N' immobilizer circuit.
    • A realistic expectattion of how long it has to last also comes down to.... when do you think you will be banned from registering and driving old petrol powered shitters? It's 27 years since that thing was built. It probably rusted out 15 years ago. It was probably repaired and looked OK for another 10. If you do a similarish bodge job now, or perhaps slightly better with some actual rust conversion and glassing, then.... get another 10-15 years out of it, after which you'll only be permitted by the CCP to drive electric cars manufactured in their Shenzen zone anyway. 
    • Let me assume that the concern over a manual ECU is that the NeoDET that you have was an auto and has an auto ECU. That ECU will not be a problem, but you WILL have to Nistune it. And you would have to Nistune it even if you had a manual ECU, because the turbo ECUs will shit the bed if they do not have all the things that they were told they have to have, to be happy. The big one being the TCS CU, which you won't have in your car. Anyway, with an auto ECU (which I have running my originally auto NeoDET in an R32) Nistune allows you to put in a Stagea image which doesn't panic about the absent TCS, and allows you to override a whle bunch of other annoyances that would otherwise see the check engine light on 100% of the time. Also, you can't wind up the power very far on the stock NeoDET ECUs without Nistune, because the boost sensor gets in the way. Nistune allows you to push that problem much further up the dial. Do you even have the boost sensor with the engine? Without it, you are SOL and will need an aftermarket ECU (or to find a sensor somewhere, god knows where). I can't tell you what the wiring loom differences are in a 34. But what Duncan said above needs to be considered. When you say "loom", does that include the transmission loom? Because you will need to swap out the auto tranny loom for the equivalent manual loom, and get rid of the neutral/park start interlock (basically hot wire it).
    • I have had the r3c in for years now, maybe close to 7 years and it has never missed a beat, anyone can drive it. Super easy to drive around town, the hotter it gets does get a little hard but it holds the power easy as 
×
×
  • Create New...