Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I am using Type R, supposed to be rated to 600hp, can be plumbed back, also it has facility pressure line from in front of the throttle body, to help it lift (lower one in the pic) - good for high boost. Holds fine with 1.7bar.

Bought if from greenline for around $300, here they retail up to around $600.

Have also heard the Tials are good.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/33617-bov-for-300rwkw/#findComment-673839
Share on other sites

1g for a blow off valve? pff as if.

I already got a turbosmart 45mm racegate on mine

:werd:

After spending $700 on my pro-gate (new in box)

A grand for a BOV is bloody ridiculous

The Type-R sounds good then by the general consensus :)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/33617-bov-for-300rwkw/#findComment-673853
Share on other sites

i use a type r they are great just dont expect to do little image psshhhttt's past people as u need to see at least 14 psi to get the things working, which is good im just warning the ricers out there!!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/33617-bov-for-300rwkw/#findComment-674651
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • It's almost certainly a reluctor generating an "AC" waveform. No, ECUs don't generally read those - they're usually set up for PWM square wave 0-5v stuff.
    • Working through possible solutions of converting my mechanical speedo.    Anyone know what type of speedo sensor the factory r34 gtr getrag has ? what the output is ? I assume its not a VSS and more a voltage like earlier speedo sensors ? Can an ECU read it ?  
    • roof rail delete used to be a thing, they were made locally for a while too
    • I can get more photos of it here soon and I plan to make a thread detailing the process. I received the car this way and it sorely needs refinishing. That is probably the most appealing photo of it. Up close it is fading, cracked, and needs to be re-glued. Depending on their condition I'm on the fence between refinishing or making a new set.  Another angle hiding the pimples and razor pumps  
    • According to this thread the RS4V with build plate RC40 comes with the R200 diff @ 4.083 ratio as well (mine has said RC40 denotation). We may need to check if the axle stubs are the same pattern as well. The auto subframes have longer axles. However I think yours being a later Series 2 as well, we should have the same bolt pattern for the diff stubs. Unless your upgraded rear also has upgraded axles. Either way, I would not be opposed to pulling the covers to check so I can inspect that  fancy rear core  Also I don't have HICAS. I don't believe that should change things but I hope the people here with heaps more experience than me can correct me if I'm wrong   Let me know if you want to attempt to make this work and I can get some pictures of mine from under the car. 
×
×
  • Create New...