Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I have needed more negative camber for a while now. Not keen on bushes so im interested to hear from anyone who has used either of the following:

http://www.rhdjapan.com/ikeya-formula-fron...et-nissan-51469

http://www.rhdjapan.com/cusco-negative-cam...34-wgnc34-16650

The Ikeya arms look strange to me in that they are two piece. As far as I understand both Ikeya and Cusco replace the upper control arm that bolts to the body of the car... the standard one is once piece.

With that in mind, it looks as though the Cusco item is easier to adjust but at the expense of fine adjustment. Cusco also seems like it would be stronger being one peice. Do I have it all wrong?

How much camber adjustment do the two sets provide?

post-2685-1284341778_thumb.jpg

post-2685-1284341792_thumb.jpg

post-2685-1284341795_thumb.jpg

post-2685-1284341801_thumb.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/336611-r33-front-camber-adjustment/
Share on other sites

How much camber do you have now? What are you doing with the car?

Car is approx 1 inch lower than standard, 1.6deg/1.9deg last I checked (saggy stock bushes hence the different side to side).

Need more front end grip and as a side benefit, even tyre wear. Chews the outside of the front tyres. Have a new set of tyres that are less than 5000kms old and the outside is already getting destroyed so I figured it was a good time to run some serious camber and even it out :banana:

Car is approx 1 inch lower than standard, 1.6deg/1.9deg last I checked (saggy stock bushes hence the different side to side).

Need more front end grip and as a side benefit, even tyre wear. Chews the outside of the front tyres. Have a new set of tyres that are less than 5000kms old and the outside is already getting destroyed so I figured it was a good time to run some serious camber and even it out :banana:

Well it begs the question: For you how much is serious camber?

Well it begs the question: For you how much is serious camber?

I dont have experience with camber on other R33s so I cant say for sure. From what I have seen, running the tyres I have now I would guess 2.5-3 degrees on street and 3.5 on track.

I wont know for sure until I try.

Does anyone have an idea of how much adjustment those arms can provide?

ISC front R33/R34 camber arms in stock for $399 Pair + 12 months local warranty.

Ryan-0413804117

Thanks Ryan - I find your arms confusing in relation to the Ikeya/Cusco types.

Is there only one piece per arm? From the web site photo they look like part of the Ikeya set. Is the picture wrong and they come with the curved and straight arms for each side or are they only the curved piece? Is the end that is bolted to the chassis rubber bushed?

post-2685-1284356293_thumb.jpg

cusco will give you -2.5deg with a ~340mm center to guard, add in a offset bush and you will see -3deg.

i run the cusco, once piece makes it easy and without a threaded piece, pretty much maintain free.

Those are 2-3 times the price of the others, I dont see the advantage, how are they better than the Cusco or Ikeya ones I posted pictures of?

cusco will give you -2.5deg with a ~340mm center to guard, add in a offset bush and you will see -3deg.

i run the cusco, once piece makes it easy and without a threaded piece, pretty much maintain free.

Thanks, however that seems a bit strange to me..im pretty sure I run approx 340mm center to guard (thats 1 inch low isnt it?) and assuming you have over 1.5deg neg already, that means the Cusco arms are only giving you -1degree extra, is that correct? On the max neg setting?

Before you waste your money figure out how much camber you actually need. I would try offset bushes and if you still want more re-drill the standard upper arm.

Im 100% sure -0.5deg extra will not be enough, plus the whiteline bushes retail at $192. I would rather spend $450 on arms that give me easier/more adjustment and get the bushes if I really need.

Never considered re drilling the standard arms, have you done it or have pictures of a redrilled arm? How much extra camber can you get this way?

I have heard from another source that the Cusco arms provide ~1deg of neg camber as ssxRicho reported.

So how do others get more camber? Surely race GTRs dont get by with bush + adjustable arm (-3deg).

The only other ways seem to be re drilling the standard upper control arm or using aftermarket lower control arms as well. How are people doing it?

I have heard from another source that the Cusco arms provide ~1deg of neg camber as ssxRicho reported.

So how do others get more camber? Surely race GTRs dont get by with bush + adjustable arm (-3deg).

The only other ways seem to be re drilling the standard upper control arm or using aftermarket lower control arms as well. How are people doing it?

How? By running a longer LCA, a shorter UCA with the addition of bushes.

How? By running a longer LCA, a shorter UCA with the addition of bushes.

Yes but I am interested in how to do it in a practical sense. Do you mean custom upper and lower arms or off the shelf? If off the shelf, which ones, and if custom what have you done ie shortened the arm or re drilled etc..

More detail would be much appreciated.

Thanks, however that seems a bit strange to me..im pretty sure I run approx 340mm center to guard (thats 1 inch low isnt it?) and assuming you have over 1.5deg neg already, that means the Cusco arms are only giving you -1degree extra, is that correct? On the max neg setting?

just to compare at the same height with the offset bush at maximum is was getting -2deg. add the arms in at max neg setting

and adjust the bush for -3deg. the bush is not maxed out, but wont give much more anyway.

a mate also has an ecr33 and cusco arms, but with the oem bush. on max setting he is on -2.5deg.

there are 3-4 settings on the cusco arm, depending on the arm.

i think you will find 'track' cars modify the lower arm and weld up a rose joint or the like to push out

a wider track and get more camber. there are a couple of pics floating around, if you look

in the fatz goes racing thread in build ups maybe, i think.

just to compare at the same height with the offset bush at maximum is was getting -2deg. add the arms in at max neg setting

and adjust the bush for -3deg. the bush is not maxed out, but wont give much more anyway.

a mate also has an ecr33 and cusco arms, but with the oem bush. on max setting he is on -2.5deg.

there are 3-4 settings on the cusco arm, depending on the arm.

i think you will find 'track' cars modify the lower arm and weld up a rose joint or the like to push out

a wider track and get more camber. there are a couple of pics floating around, if you look

in the fatz goes racing thread in build ups maybe, i think.

Thanks mate. Im going with the easy option as to not risk messing up the geometry with custom arms since I dont have the patience to get it right. I found a couple of pics as you said.

Im getting a price on the Cusco arms with the 4 settings and will probably go with the Whiteline Plus UCA bushes.

Did you find any issues fitting the adjustable bush in conjunction with the Cusco arm? Looks like you cant use the bolt that goes through the bush which comes with the cusco arm, instead the two bolts that come with the kit, seems dodgy:

post-2685-1285332876_thumb.jpg

I just ordered the cusco upper arms from japan $400. I'm assuming they are the 4 settings item.

Theyre an awesome piece of kit. I run them in my 34.

3 point adjustment. I run my car pretty low (tyre flush with guard, but I have -3.5 front camber on the car.

Ikeya are wicked but the price is quite a lot more.

Cusco all the way :/

Theyre an awesome piece of kit. I run them in my 34.

3 point adjustment. I run my car pretty low (tyre flush with guard, but I have -3.5 front camber on the car.

Ikeya are wicked but the price is quite a lot more.

Cusco all the way :/

Do you run them with aftermarket camber bushes in the upper arm as well or just the standard bush?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • A 1.5 way is a 2 way. It is just a 2 way with a less aggressive ramp on overrun.
    • The ABS and/or TCS being missing/broken will not cause the engine to misbehave. It just casues CEL to come on and annoy you. The CEL is useless if it is always on, so you have to do the things you have to do to get rid of it, so it can be useful. Being a Stag ECU, then yes, it will not expect TCS to be present. But it will expect ABS to be present and working. You will need to either make the ABS CU talk to the ECU (don't ask me what that will take on an NA R34), and make sure the hardware is working....or, you just need to blank it out in Nistune. Do not persist with the stock ECU. You will just have problems. Gte it Nistuned. Start from there. DO YOU HAVE A BOOST SENSOR? The ECU's boost sensor that it. It is connected to the loom at the rear of the coil cover. Usually rides on the firewall on an R34, but is usually bolted down to a bracket along with all the other crap at the back of the coil cover when a Neo is dropped into another car. If you do not have it, the ECU will shit the bed. So, do you have one?
    • So sadly the fuel pump etc was not it. The pump and filter is new and it is still cutting around 4000 rpm. A read something about ABS/TCS (engine is from stagea and ECU too so no TCS) and i dont know for 100% that my car has ABS. It has ABS "cube" in engine bay but i dont think it works(or at least from my braking experience). Can be something like that?  I will be driving the car next week to Nistune tuner to properly see what is wrong...  
    • the Tomei LSD fluid with lsd kit. frustrated that it was shaking the car to crap and affecting everything else negatively, I pulled the diff last night, and removed the lsd carrier, could not find anything wrong, however it seem to be 100 locked up acceleration, and deacceleration, wondering if they sent me a 2 way not a 1.5??  either way I installed the stock open carrier back in place. test drove everything smooth as butter again. no shake, shutter, random, what felt like clutch slip and grab or drive shaft play, etc. something differently wrong in side the lsd. I might bother taking it apart (if possible) to figure out what's going on inside this carrier, as bought too long ago to return.  only draw back is its back to a one wheel wonder.
×
×
  • Create New...