Jump to content
SAU Community

R34 Gtr Market

PSI-FED

By PSI-FED,
in R Series (R30, R31, R32, R33, R34)

 Share

Recommended Posts

gtr13 Proficient

gtr13

Posted
Posted
I found these V-Spec GTRs on carsales that don't seem to have diffusers:

http://www.carsales.com.au/all-cars/privat...30&__N=1216 1246 1247 1252 1282 4294963846 4294963593 464 416&silo=1011&PriceTo=416&seot=1&PriceFrom=464&tsrc=allcarhome&__Nne=15&trecs=59&__sid=10F3995EFE23

http://www.carsales.com.au/all-cars/privat...15&__N=1216 1246 1247 1252 1282 4294963846 4294963593 464 416&silo=1011&PriceTo=416&seot=1&PriceFrom=464&tsrc=allcarhome&__Nne=15&trecs=59&__sid=10F3995EFE23

Have they been removed?

the first link has a non v-spec speedo so i would say it is a standard model (non v-spec) or if it is a v-spec the klm's are wrong as the speedo is not from that car

mxfly Veteran

mxfly

Posted
Posted
the first link has a non v-spec speedo so i would say it is a standard model (non v-spec) or if it is a v-spec the klm's are wrong as the speedo is not from that car

You've got Superman vision if you can pick that from the pic. There is in fact a difference between the two variants, but it is so tiny and negligible. Between the 0 and 1 numbers under the rpm, there is an extra line.

But there is another noticeable difference as well that I have found out through comparing the two models. V Spec cars have these air diversion plates on the front lower control arms. These things guide air to the front brakes. When I had a look at my friends non V Spec car, they were missing.

Marlin Grand Master

Marlin

Posted
Posted

I've had two v-specs and a v-spec 2 and none had the front brake air guides attached. The bolt holes were there for them on all though. Something so easily removed or added probably isn't a good guide to a real one.

Thanks for the pm's guys, I'll get some pics and specs to you when at work tomorrow :geek:

gtr13 Proficient

gtr13

Posted
Posted (edited)
You've got Superman vision if you can pick that from the pic. There is in fact a difference between the two variants, but it is so tiny and negligible. Between the 0 and 1 numbers under the rpm, there is an extra line.

But there is another noticeable difference as well that I have found out through comparing the two models. V Spec cars have these air diversion plates on the front lower control arms. These things guide air to the front brakes. When I had a look at my friends non V Spec car, they were missing.

bit more difference then that the 0 to 3 on the tacho is compressed where as the non v-spec it is normal check both pics i have put up dont really need superman vision to see it

Edited by GTR1313
Grey89Godzilla Apprentice

Grey89Godzilla

Posted
Posted
The difference is so minor it is not worth the extra, whatever dollars the price tag says.

Or you'd rather save up for the aftermarket mods and put it to the base model.

R34 GTR V-Spec = Standard R34 GTR but came with ATTESA E-TS Pro system and an Active LSD at the rear.

Had harder suspension and lower ride height.

A plastic front air diffuser (covering the underside of the engine) and also a rear carbon fiber air diffuser, designed to keep air flowing smoothly under the car.

The Multifunction Display (MFD) had two extra features to the display: Intake and Exhaust Temperatures.

Ceramic twin turbo's.

R34 GTR V-Spec II = As above + an increase of hardness to the suspension and larger disk brakes on the rear.

OEM carbon fiber bonnet with an NACA Air Duct to vent air to the turbo side of the engine.

Iridium center console and aluminium pedals. (Just for looks)

Seat interior colour were black rather then gray, which was used on previous R34 GT-R models. (Just for looks)

Indicator lenses were replaced with white / clear instead of amber / orange. (Just for looks)

Ceramic twin turbo's.

And you get a "V-Spec" / "V-Spec II" Badge / sticker on the rear bar.

You would change the stock suspension over to a set of fully adjustable ones as it will better the handling over any stock suspension.

Did R34 standard and v-spec have ceramic exhaust wheels? Was it only the N1 that had steel wheels? I ask becuase I would like to upgrade to steel wheel turbos in my R32 and I was under the impression all R34's had steel exhaust wheels.

(OO)SKYLINE(OO) Grand Master

(OO)SKYLINE(OO)

Posted
Posted
Did R34 standard and v-spec have ceramic exhaust wheels? Was it only the N1 that had steel wheels? I ask becuase I would like to upgrade to steel wheel turbos in my R32 and I was under the impression all R34's had steel exhaust wheels.

Yeah!

Only The R34 GTR N1 / V-Spec II Nur / M-Spec Nur had the Steel Wheel Turbines.

According to the turbo chart I have, R34 GTR N1 Turbines have similar specs to the Garrett -7's and HKS GT-SS'.

SS8_Gohan Grand Master

SS8_Gohan

Posted
Posted

just some food for thought (and a bit of a shameless plug)

whilst the R badge is alluring, i wouldn't count out a well sorted rwd RB25, especially for street duties.

290rwkw, my car is quicker than even most modified GTR's - had a kit that makes most people think it is a GTR.

Has the ultra, uber expensive rear diffuser (yes it does make a difference) - friendlier engine and gearbox for around town, and cheaper in the modification/maintenance stakes.

GTR rims which sit perfect on a GTT as compared to a GTR. Plus you'll have a bunch of cash left over to do a HEAP more things if you really want.

something to ponder on perhaps :D

plus you can't beat black on black :cool:

  • 1 month later...
Angus Smart Grand Master

Angus Smart

Posted
Posted

Just buy this one..

http://www.global-auto.ne.jp/stock/public_...amp;model=BNR34

Black vspec. everything you wanted and more.. and surely you can find a good ol nice compliance shop to do the work they are required to do...

55-60k landed and complied is my rough guess..

Al Despo Proficient

Al Despo

Posted
Posted
Just buy this one..

http://www.global-auto.ne.jp/stock/public_...amp;model=BNR34

Black vspec. everything you wanted and more.. and surely you can find a good ol nice compliance shop to do the work they are required to do...

55-60k landed and complied is my rough guess..

That thing is a weapon and even some of the other r34s there, strap in and hang on for half the price of doing it yourself here

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Komdotkom
      R32 Gtst - Track Car

      By Komdotkom · Posted

      Good luck on the weekend mate
    • Duncan
      From Japan and back to Europe, my sh*tbox R34 GTT

      By Duncan · Posted

      Must have been an absolute nightmare to drive when the power steer was out, the rack ratio/wheel size/caster is all set up for power assistance
    • Duncan
      New

      By Duncan · Posted

      Welcome to SAU, what are you looking at buying?
    • GabsReDeal
      R32 GTS (RB20DE) Injectors Replacement

      By GabsReDeal · Posted

      I checked the injectors again (1 and 2, since they’re easiest to access) to make sure they weren’t clogged. Even though the entire fuel system had been cleaned, I wanted to be certain. Everything looked clean, so I reinstalled and connected everything. When I started the car to confirm everything was okay, it immediately revved up high, so I shut it off straight away. I checked to see if I’d missed a vacuum hose or something, but everything was connected. On the second attempt, the car ran without the high idle, but I noticed a distinct “compressed air” sound coming from the engine bay. Tracing the sound, I pushed injector #6 forward slightly and the noise stopped — it turned out it wasn’t seated properly, despite the fuel rail being bolted down. While holding it in place, the car idled steadily without stalling and ran for over 5 minutes. At this point, I pulled all six injectors out just in case I hadn’t seated them correctly or dirt had gotten onto the O-rings. Unfortunately, I discovered that I had damaged 3 out of 6 injectors (the OEM 270cc ones) during installation. So yes, this was my fault. Since only the pintle caps were damaged, I’ve ordered a Fuel Injector Service Kit from NZEFI to refurbish them. In the meantime, I reinstalled my new injectors – the car now idles fine for over 15 minutes without stalling. I have not attempted to drive it so far. It’s not perfect yet, as it hesitates when the throttle is pressed, but it’s a big improvement. Unplugging the IACV with the new injectors idles at around 800rpm, even with the IACV screw tightened fully. But this is probably due to tune.
    • hoodedreeper
      Chris' Toyota Mark ii JZX110

      By hoodedreeper · Posted

      I wanted to try and preserve the front bumper as long as possible, they're not cheap and are made to order in Japan. Taking inspiration from my previous K11 Micra build where I made an undertray for the Impul bumper, I did the same for this BN Sports bumper but a little slimmed down.  This time round I only made a 'skid plate' (if that's the correct wording/term) for just the bumper surface area, the Micra version covered the gap like an undertray. Starting off with a sheet of mild steel approx. 0.9mm thick 4ft x 2ft in size. I traced around the bumper, cut it out and cleaned the edges. Luckily I was able to get two halves from one piece of metal In the video I installed it as is, but I've since then I've removed it to spray and add a rubber edging trim. The rubber trim is suitable for 1-2mm and it's a really nice tight fit. The bolts had to be loosened due to the plates being too tight against the bumper, the trim wouldn't push on I used some stainless M6 flat headed bolts for a flusher finish (rather than hex heads poking down), I believe this style fastener is used for furniture too incase you struggle to source some. The corner's are a little wider, but this may be an advantage incase I get close to bumping it  The front grill got some attention, finally getting round to repairing it. Upon removal one fixing pulled itself out of the plastic frame, one side is M8 that fixes inside of the frame, where as the other side is M5. Not knowing I could get replacements, I cut down an M8 bolt, threaded it inside the frame along with a decent amount of JB Weld.  The mesh was replaced to match the bumper. One hole on the bonnet/hood had to be drilled out to 8mm to accommodate the new stud, once the glue had set it could be refitted. I think the reason the grill was double meshed was to hide the horn/bonnet latch (which makes sense) but I much prefer it matching the bumper Bumper refitted and it's looking much better IMO The Youtube video can be seen here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bVZP35io9MA
×
×
  • Create New...