Jump to content
SAU Community

C210 - Dyno

Socrates

By Socrates,
in Classic & Vintage (1950's-1980's)

 Share

Recommended Posts

Socrates Mentor

Socrates

Posted
Posted

I'm putting my C210 on a dyno for a power run this sunday with the local cruising club in Perth "West Coast Cruisers".

I want to know the max rpm the car should be revved to, i've only ever gone to 6000-6250 when driving. Is that as far as i should take it?

Specs.

Stock internal L24, unopened only for headgasket in early 1980s).

Planed head (early 1980s).

Single, double barrell hitachi carburettor (standard).

Standard airfilter and air box/intake.

NGK BP6ES spark plugs @ 0.8mm.

2inch free flowing exhaust with extractors.

Standard Gearbox, worn synchros.

Standard diff, worn pinion bearings.

195/65R14 tyres, standard 14x5.5in rims.

Thanks

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/336855-c210-dyno/
Share on other sites
Silent Shadow Rising Star

Silent Shadow

Posted
Posted

Man i was so close to dyno-ing mine last year. Keen to see what you get!

Mine has a very obvious power drop around the 5.5-6k mark. Well not a power drop, it just doesnt pull any harder. And the tappets start to sound loud around 6.5k rpm. So yea i wouldnt bother goin any more than that personally.

Post vid and dyno sheet for sure man. And have fun!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/336855-c210-dyno/#findComment-5447211
Share on other sites
FJ20DR30 Community Regular

FJ20DR30

Posted
Posted

Im not sure you will get a choice on what it gets reved to?, the guy using the dyno will usually take it to red line so you get a power curve print out, Im not saying this is the case every time but its always been like that when ive done them.

just make sure you have plenty of oil in it id say over fill it by half a liter and it will be just fine there a strong old engine.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/336855-c210-dyno/#findComment-5447284
Share on other sites
Socrates Mentor

Socrates

Posted
  • Author
Posted

my car has "yellow" line from 6000 - 6500 then Red from 6000 - 8000.

I don't want the dyno dude doing an 8000, it's just too much for the car and with the stock radiator fan 4000+ sounds like an airoplane.

according to engine plate max power is made at 5600rpm anyway, so going 6500 i think would all it'd really need.

Thanks cam, does yours have aftermarket radiator fan?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/336855-c210-dyno/#findComment-5447445
Share on other sites
Factory 5 Mentor

Factory 5

Posted
Posted

In my bog-stock L24e auto, I scored 53kW at the wheels, so it you top this with your exhaust and manual trans, let me know!!!

at for redline, I wrecked another R30 a few months ago, kept all the goodies. But before that i too wondered what the redline was... so I spent the next 40 minutes bouncing off 7000 rpm and doing HARD shifts, generally TRYING to break it. damn thing just kept going... I ended up running out of fuel.

Pulled it all apart over the next 6 months and the insides were fine, still had the factory honing marks in the cylinders, even had factory head gasket!

bloody tough buggers.

a few minutes on the dyno wont hurt it! just keep your tyre pressures up, and clean fresh air coming in the intake.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/336855-c210-dyno/#findComment-5448083
Share on other sites
Socrates Mentor

Socrates

Posted
  • Author
Posted

i'll post up the dyno graph when i get it done.

i've got 35 psi in the above mentioned tyres, is that good?

i would suspect that the automatic was robbing power from the engine and that's good news about how high they can rev, it's just so loud from 4k +, one of the reasons I'm going twin thermo fans.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/336855-c210-dyno/#findComment-5448191
Share on other sites
DR JOSH Community Regular

DR JOSH

Posted
Posted
my car has "yellow" line from 6000 - 6500 then Red from 6000 - 8000.

I don't want the dyno dude doing an 8000, it's just too much for the car and with the stock radiator fan 4000+ sounds like an airoplane.

according to engine plate max power is made at 5600rpm anyway, so going 6500 i think would all it'd really need.

Thanks cam, does yours have aftermarket radiator fan?

It'll be fine, on a power run the dyno operator will only rev it till it starts dropping power and that will be way before it gets even close to 8000rpm probably closer to 5000-5500rpm on an L-block

Be warned if you've never had you car on a dyno before it can be worrysome watching it stand up for the first time :D

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/336855-c210-dyno/#findComment-5448412
Share on other sites
Silent Shadow Rising Star

Silent Shadow

Posted
Posted

Yea im running a thermo fan bro. The engine fan drove me nuts! It was louder than the exhaust ay.

Dont worry about tyre pressures too much. 35 should be fine seriously.

And when i put my silvia on the dyno, i had to tell the operator what rpm he did on the runs. That way he was not liable for blowing up the engine by over-revving.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/336855-c210-dyno/#findComment-5449273
Share on other sites
BensDR30 Experienced

BensDR30

Posted
Posted
In my bog-stock L24e auto, I scored 53kW at the wheels, so it you top this with your exhaust and manual trans, let me know!!!

at for redline, I wrecked another R30 a few months ago, kept all the goodies. But before that i too wondered what the redline was... so I spent the next 40 minutes bouncing off 7000 rpm and doing HARD shifts, generally TRYING to break it. damn thing just kept going... I ended up running out of fuel.

Pulled it all apart over the next 6 months and the insides were fine, still had the factory honing marks in the cylinders, even had factory head gasket!

bloody tough buggers.

a few minutes on the dyno wont hurt it! just keep your tyre pressures up, and clean fresh air coming in the intake.

My old 200000km old L24E MR30 auto managed 62kW at the wheels, so expect something between 50-70 depending on how tired she is.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/336855-c210-dyno/#findComment-5451411
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • wizlb
      Who has a Infiniti Q60, Q50 (V37)?

      By wizlb · Posted

      Per Mark Roberts of Sonictune: Mark Robert Author At this time, no. No ETA either 2016-17 models. You will be able to purchase and install a 2018.5+ TCU though   TCU purchasing and pricing info! As we near the release of TCU tuning, I am going to answer some questions I get asked often.   What do I need for TCU tuning? At this time, you will need a 2018.5+ TCU to be able to tune. If you have a 2016-to early 2018, you will need to replace your TCU with the newer version. One good way to know if your TCU is good is if you have auto upshift in manual mode in 1st gear around 6500 rpms. If your manual 1st gear goes to 7k rpm and will hit the rev limiter unless you shift, you have the older TCU.   Why do I need to buy another ecu license/phone flash if I already have it on my ECU tune? The TCU is its own computer module. It is completely separate from the ECU. Because of this, you will be required to purchase a TCU license and, if your tuner has it, the phone flash license required to tune it via phone/bluetooth.   Do I need TCU tuning? TCU tuning is NOT required. However, the faster your setup, the more it will assist in track and dragy time consistency.   If I’m ECU tuned by (tuner A) can I get my TCU tuned by (Tuner ? Yes, since it’s a different module and a completely separate flash, you can have two different tuners. However, it is highly recommend that you have both tuned by the same tuner. For me, my TCU tuning will directly complement my ECU tuning style and features and running my ECU and another TCU or vice versa MIGHT cause some issues. At this time and for the foreseeable future, I will only be tuning my current ECU tuned customers TCUs.     I have a SYVECS AWD controller. Do I still need it? Yes! The AWD controllers main job is to control your AWD system. However, with TCU tuning, you will no longer need the auto-shift function as that will be done through the TCU. The AWD controller will still be very beneficial for racers looking to maximize traction on the launch.     Shift schedule changes: holding gears longer at lower pedal input as well as max shift rpm changes. Please note, the new ECU race rom coming out will address 90% of the shitty drivability issues these cars have through custom maps from myself and Racebox—as well as others I am sure.   Increase shift speeds: as seen in the videos I’ve been posting, the TCU shifts much faster once tuned.   Increased shift pressures: as also seen in the videos, much firmer full throttle shifts.      
    • wizlb
      Who has a Infiniti Q60, Q50 (V37)?

      By wizlb · Posted

      Per Mark Roberts of Sonictune:     Mark Robert Author At this time, no. No ETA either 2016-17 models. You will be able to purchase and install a 2018.5+ TCU though   TCU purchasing and pricing info! As we near the release of TCU tuning, I am going to answer some questions I get asked often.   What do I need for TCU tuning? At this time, you will need a 2018.5+ TCU to be able to tune. If you have a 2016-to early 2018, you will need to replace your TCU with the newer version. One good way to know if your TCU is good is if you have auto upshift in manual mode in 1st gear around 6500 rpms. If your manual 1st gear goes to 7k rpm and will hit the rev limiter unless you shift, you have the older TCU.   Why do I need to buy another ecu license/phone flash if I already have it on my ECU tune? The TCU is its own computer module. It is completely separate from the ECU. Because of this, you will be required to purchase a TCU license and, if your tuner has it, the phone flash license required to tune it via phone/bluetooth.   Do I need TCU tuning? TCU tuning is NOT required. However, the faster your setup, the more it will assist in track and dragy time consistency.   If I’m ECU tuned by (tuner A) can I get my TCU tuned by (Tuner ? Yes, since it’s a different module and a completely separate flash, you can have two different tuners. However, it is highly recommend that you have both tuned by the same tuner. For me, my TCU tuning will directly complement my ECU tuning style and features and running my ECU and another TCU or vice versa MIGHT cause some issues. At this time and for the foreseeable future, I will only be tuning my current ECU tuned customers TCUs.     I have a SYVECS AWD controller. Do I still need it? Yes! The AWD controllers main job is to control your AWD system. However, with TCU tuning, you will no longer need the auto-shift function as that will be done through the TCU. The AWD controller will still be very beneficial for racers looking to maximize traction on the launch.     Shift schedule changes: holding gears longer at lower pedal input as well as max shift rpm changes. Please note, the new ECU race rom coming out will address 90% of the shitty drivability issues these cars have through custom maps from myself and Racebox—as well as others I am sure.   Increase shift speeds: as seen in the videos I’ve been posting, the TCU shifts much faster once tuned.   Increased shift pressures: as also seen in the videos, much firmer full throttle shifts.      
    • The Bogan
      NC MX5

      By The Bogan · Posted

      The fancy pants red shock tower brace is finally incoming from MX5 Mania, getting it shipped from 'Merica has been a long and problematic process, and GWR, the 'Merican supplier will not ship directly to consumers outside of the US, Mania basically had to order a heap of them, the colour choice was silver, or red, and we all know anything red adds 5 killerwasps of dynotorques..... Whilst it does fit over a 2.5, and I've seen a few photos and videos of it being installed and fitting, google also says it might get real close to the FAB9 intake front runner, people in the US says it does fit with the FAB9 intake, except for one person who said it slightly touched.......so there is that.....LOL..... As it seems that I am the first in AU to have this combination of parts there's no local knowledge about fitment, so I'm just a willing guinea pig in this endeavour, I'll cross my fingers and toes and hope for the best In other news, I ordered stuff from China  on the same day I ordered the 23° silicone bend from Victoria, the stuff from China arrived a day ago, the 23° silicone bend is still travelling around Australia thanks to Australia Post, and "may" be here next week
    • Duncan
      Who has a Infiniti Q60, Q50 (V37)?

      By Duncan · Posted

      Very good news...I contacted Racebox about it last night. My car is a 2016 so remains to be seen if it is compatible, requires a TCU swap, or is impossible.
    • MBS206
      Unpeeling the Orange

      By MBS206 · Posted

      What ECU are you running? This is probably the biggest question. If it's a PowerFC, I'd probably change the ECU and get something newer that will handle the injectors in a nicer way.
×
×
  • Create New...