Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi guys,

I recently purchased my M35 250T RS privately and am based in Canberra.

Today while driving home from work I noticed a distinct burning-oil-type smell coming from the AC vents that disappeared when the AC was turned off. Additionally, when I pulled over and opened the bonnet I could see a faint smoke (if you will) coming from the passenger side near the dipstick. The car was only recently serviced on Tuesday last week and the previous owner has not had any trouble with the car in such a way before.

I had a quick look underneath and there is a bit of oil residue/seepage near the turbo (Passenger side). I haven't noticed a decrease in boost pressure and engine temps are fine (as far as stocko guages can tell me). From work colleagues who have been car pooling with me at the time and on earlier dates; they say they've noticed it very briefly when driving around but thought it was the vehicles that were in front of us at the time.

The main thing is, my partner's car is in strife and we're due a baby any day now so I want to know what this is so I can rectify it ASAP, so I ask what are possible options for this?

P.S - LONG time reader, first time poster :P

Sean

Edited by simply_mighty
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/337066-burning-oil-smell-through-ac/
Share on other sites

As chook said, check the oil level... but you should know that a common complaint with the VQ25det is that the passenger side bank will leak oil from under the cam cover. It may be leaking and dripping onto the turbo which could explain the smoke. "Simple" solution is to have the gasket under the cam cover replaced.

If the previous owner went nuts with the degreaser, might that actually be what you are smelling?

perhaps some oil leaked out of the oil filter at time of service and dripped down around the gearbox i noticed it a couple of times when i did servicing on my series two, and its the same story a burning smell through the vents and minor smoke from under the bonnet.

So the general consensus is that it is a relatively easy fix?

Where would I go about sourcing a gasket if need be?

Sean

Nissan, I think it was around $70 unless that was an imported price. It isnt the same as the 350z so I will have to get the part no. for you.

Not a big job, just be careful with the rear section, its hard to keep the rubber gasket in the groove due to the heater pipes. You will need to remove the top part of the plenum first though.

So the general consensus is that it is a relatively easy fix?

Where would I go about sourcing a gasket if need be?

Sean

Nissan

Part #13270-AL612 :dry:

Should be around $20 and will have to come from Japan (10 day lead time)

Edited by iamhe77
Cheers iamhe77 - is that for both or just the one bank? I assume just the one bank although I may as well do both while I'm there

Sean

Just the passenger side bank mate.

If the driver's side bank isn't leaking, don't bother replacing it... Reason being that there are built in seals in the cam covers which stop oil from going into the spark plug holes. These seals can break.

So if it ain't broke, don't fix it in this instance :D

If the seal is busted, you will have to buy a new cam cover... and they go for around $300 each :dry:

just did my one the other week had the same smell you speak of!! check with a torch at the rear of the passenger cam seal you will prob see a liitle seepage.. replacing is a little bit of a bitch due to the space you have to work with.. and bit and pieces you need to move.. if you have a uni-joint socket adapter it will be your best friend for removing all the cam cover bolts.. and be sure to be careful not to damage the sparkplug valley seals. (i applied some dirko to one of mine as the spark plug was swimming in oil)

the part cost me $27 from col crawford nissan brookvale 2 days but thats coz it came from WA.

all this is pending thats the problem.. goodluck!!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • A few small updates since the previous post and lessons. I decided to do a little interior light upgrade on the 110. I quite like the iilumo items, even if they're a bit of a premium over other brands. You'll also note the Stedi Fogs, that will go into the S15 fog lights as I needed to match the bulbs since I got the new ones earlier. I hope they fit as the body is quite a bit longer than your normal bulb.  Annoyingly, I managed to trip the fuse, which normally wouldn't be an issue until I located the fuse. I can't say I've ever come across this. I had lucked out that someone nearby had a spare, but oddly enough Toyota dealerships seem to keep this in stock. I ordered some to keep in my stash and as luck would have it, someone else nearby tripped the same fuse so I passed on the favour.  I also did a little service on the 110 ahead of some additional work coming up. It's been annoying that Goleby's stopped carrying this particular HKS filter for the 110, so now I need to keep them on order from Japan. I also took the opportunity to install a bash plate and number plate riser. The plate riser is such a cheap but nice fix to help really tidy up the car. I'm tempted to now also replace my headlights, on this car. Both items were from Project Aero.    I also needed to replace the rear tyres on the 110, and after trying to get it aligned learnt that I need to replace some bushes in the front end, so that's next.  Closing out this update with a nicer picture as always! 
    • Yeah mate, never miss it.
    • Any going to watch World Time Attack at SMSP this year?
    • Appreciate the correction on the "ground", that will make a huge difference to looking at this. That makes complete sense about AF70/AF71 which is what I had come down to being the issue, one of these. I'll have another look in the ignition wiring when I get a chance next week. I'll also make up a jumper wire for running that AF73 test.  ECU is fine, relay itself is fine, pump harness is fine and the pump itself is fine. I am going to upgrade the Walbro 255 anyway with a DW300 I have since I need to replace the fuel sender and I'm going to upgrade the FPR with my chasebays kit ready for new plenum/injectors/dbw, but I'll get this working first. That's why this is so frustrating. 
×
×
  • Create New...