Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi guys,

I recently purchased my M35 250T RS privately and am based in Canberra.

Today while driving home from work I noticed a distinct burning-oil-type smell coming from the AC vents that disappeared when the AC was turned off. Additionally, when I pulled over and opened the bonnet I could see a faint smoke (if you will) coming from the passenger side near the dipstick. The car was only recently serviced on Tuesday last week and the previous owner has not had any trouble with the car in such a way before.

I had a quick look underneath and there is a bit of oil residue/seepage near the turbo (Passenger side). I haven't noticed a decrease in boost pressure and engine temps are fine (as far as stocko guages can tell me). From work colleagues who have been car pooling with me at the time and on earlier dates; they say they've noticed it very briefly when driving around but thought it was the vehicles that were in front of us at the time.

The main thing is, my partner's car is in strife and we're due a baby any day now so I want to know what this is so I can rectify it ASAP, so I ask what are possible options for this?

P.S - LONG time reader, first time poster :P

Sean

Edited by simply_mighty
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/337066-burning-oil-smell-through-ac/
Share on other sites

As chook said, check the oil level... but you should know that a common complaint with the VQ25det is that the passenger side bank will leak oil from under the cam cover. It may be leaking and dripping onto the turbo which could explain the smoke. "Simple" solution is to have the gasket under the cam cover replaced.

If the previous owner went nuts with the degreaser, might that actually be what you are smelling?

perhaps some oil leaked out of the oil filter at time of service and dripped down around the gearbox i noticed it a couple of times when i did servicing on my series two, and its the same story a burning smell through the vents and minor smoke from under the bonnet.

So the general consensus is that it is a relatively easy fix?

Where would I go about sourcing a gasket if need be?

Sean

Nissan, I think it was around $70 unless that was an imported price. It isnt the same as the 350z so I will have to get the part no. for you.

Not a big job, just be careful with the rear section, its hard to keep the rubber gasket in the groove due to the heater pipes. You will need to remove the top part of the plenum first though.

So the general consensus is that it is a relatively easy fix?

Where would I go about sourcing a gasket if need be?

Sean

Nissan

Part #13270-AL612 :dry:

Should be around $20 and will have to come from Japan (10 day lead time)

Edited by iamhe77
Cheers iamhe77 - is that for both or just the one bank? I assume just the one bank although I may as well do both while I'm there

Sean

Just the passenger side bank mate.

If the driver's side bank isn't leaking, don't bother replacing it... Reason being that there are built in seals in the cam covers which stop oil from going into the spark plug holes. These seals can break.

So if it ain't broke, don't fix it in this instance :D

If the seal is busted, you will have to buy a new cam cover... and they go for around $300 each :dry:

just did my one the other week had the same smell you speak of!! check with a torch at the rear of the passenger cam seal you will prob see a liitle seepage.. replacing is a little bit of a bitch due to the space you have to work with.. and bit and pieces you need to move.. if you have a uni-joint socket adapter it will be your best friend for removing all the cam cover bolts.. and be sure to be careful not to damage the sparkplug valley seals. (i applied some dirko to one of mine as the spark plug was swimming in oil)

the part cost me $27 from col crawford nissan brookvale 2 days but thats coz it came from WA.

all this is pending thats the problem.. goodluck!!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • @Haggerty this is your red flag. In MAP based ECU's the Manifold pressure X RPM calculation is how the engine knows it is actually...running/going through ANY load. You are confusing the term 'base map' with your base VE/Fuel table. When most people say 'base map' they mean the stock entire tune shipped with the ECU, hopefully aimed at a specific car/setup to use as a base for beginning to tune your specific car. Haltech has a lot of documentation (or at least they used to, I expect it to be better now). Read it voraciously.
    • I saw you mention this earlier and it raised a red flag, but I couldn't believe it was real. Yes, the vacuum signal should vary. It is the one and only load signal from the engine to the ECU, and it MUST vary. It is either not connected or is badly f**ked up in some way.
    • @Haggerty you still haven't answered my question.  Many things you are saying do not make sense for someone who can tune, yet I would not expect someone who cannot tune to be playing with the things in the ECU that you are.  This process would be a lot quicker to figure out if we can remove user error from the equation. 
    • If as it's stalling, the fuel pressure rises, it's saying there's less vacuum in the intake manifold. This is pretty typical of an engine that is slowing down.   While typically is agree it sounds fuel related, it really sounds fuel/air mixture related. Since the whole system has been refurbished, including injectors, pump, etc, it's likely we've altered how well the system is delivering fuel. If someone before you has messed with the IACV because it needed fiddling with as the fuel system was dieing out, we need to readjust it back. Getting things back to factory spec everywhere, is what's going to help the entire system. So if it idles at 400rpm with no IACV, that needs raising. Getting factory air flow back to normal will help us get everything back in spec, and likely help chase down any other issues. Back on IACV, if the base idle (no IACV plugged in) is too far out, it's a lot harder for the ECU to control idle. The IACV duty cycle causes non linear variations in reality. When I've tuned the idle valves in the past, you need to keep it in a relatively narrow window on aftermarket ecus to stop them doing wild dances. It also means if your base idle is too low, the valve needs to open too much, and then the smallest % change ends up being a huge variation.
    • I guess one thing that might be wrong is the manifold pressure.  It is a constant -5.9 and never moves even under 100% throttle and load.  I would expect it to atleast go to 0 correct?  It's doing this with the OEM MAP as well as the ECU vacuum sensor. When trying to tune the base map under load the crosshairs only climb vertically with RPM, but always in the -5.9 column.
×
×
  • Create New...