Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

metric?. my gauge reads in psi i just converted it for you guys.. believe me when i did a compression test this week and the cam covers were of as i was checking valve clearances at the same time, with the cas disconnected and wot the oil that was being pumped to the cams was unbelievable. i suspect with a 1.5 mm in there and 8000rpm there would be a gallon a miniute in them covers, no cam baffle will help that, its no wonder they breath. if i built another i might even reduce it more, its frightening how much oil get up there from such a small hole, god forbid i left both the oil feeds in, the sump would empty..lol

I was referring to the .65 of your restrictor. 65 thou ? I gather it is in mm

  • Replies 80
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

yes mate .65mm. tomei supply 1.2mm in the h/g kit, we have blanks made and drill them to what we feel we need. take a look at the banjo,s that come with hks turbos, the oil feed ones, they have a restrictor fitted in the end it is like .9 mm i think. tiny really if you think about it and thats supplying the turbo bearings,i know they are bb and dont need alot of oil..

awesome read, im a little confused with the line that vents the air from the crankcase to the catch can.. if you weld the return onto the sump will it actually be sitting below or above the oil level?

Jarrod

awesome read, im a little confused with the line that vents the air from the crankcase to the catch can.. if you weld the return onto the sump will it actually be sitting below or above the oil level?

Jarrod

I will post some pics up of my setup when I'm at the track on Saturday. Best to have the return above the oil level and on the passenger side as there is a lower pressure on that side due to the clockwise rotation of the crank. I use the dipstick tube however.

I will post some pics up of my setup when I'm at the track on Saturday. Best to have the return above the oil level and on the passenger side as there is a lower pressure on that side due to the clockwise rotation of the crank. I use the dipstick tube however.

I now have a sump return on my secondary catch can to the turbo oil return as well as the return to the dipstick from the primary catch can... is my problem sorted now you ask?.....nope still fills both cans.

I am begining to think my Mines baffle plates are not doing there job in my senario. I had a close look at them. Once oil gets above the baffle there is no way for it to return until the car decels. The std baffles have a return near the rear with plastic diffusers... I will show you why I think these don't work for me.

post-49288-1286147004_thumb.jpg

post-49288-1286147969_thumb.png

its hard to tell from the pic, but do you run a Autech type can on top of the rockers? if you dont you should try on, this is like an extra baffle on top as it will hold enough oil to stop it filling the catch cans, then when it gets a chance it will return in back into the top of the head, if it does fill it then it will overflow into your other catch cans then into your sump through your oil return

its hard to tell from the pic, but do you run a Autech type can on top of the rockers? if you dont you should try on, this is like an extra baffle on top as it will hold enough oil to stop it filling the catch cans, then when it gets a chance it will return in back into the top of the head, if it does fill it then it will overflow into your other catch cans then into your sump through your oil return

I do like the idea as the gibson GTR runs a similar setup. The problem I have is clearance with the Rb30 block and all. Maybe I could look at a custom setup using that principle.

post-49288-1286150459_thumb.jpg

I might look at adding the std oil return diffusers from the std plate to my Mine's plates.

Here is an example of the G forces...

Add a drain line above the baffle plate on the side of each rocker cover, that runs to the low pressure side of the sump.

I'd also look at a -10 line from the crank case, dip stick side to a breather can to relieve some crank case pressure.

GL

J.

I do like the idea as the gibson GTR runs a similar setup. The problem I have is clearance with the Rb30 block and all. Maybe I could look at a custom setup using that principle.

Ahh yep. That sux

out of curiousity did you drill out the oil returns in your block/head as well as enlarging the 2 rear oil drain oils in the head??

one of the holes in my head is barely a hole at all, the smallest bit is at least a third the size of the narrowest point in the block.

did you end up checking your crankcase pressure with your map sensor?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yup. You can get creative and make a sort of "bracket" with cable ties. Put 2 around the sender with a third passing underneath them strapped down against the sender. Then that third one is able to be passed through some hole at right angles to the orientation of the sender. Or some variation on the theme. Yes.... ummm, with caveats? I mean, the sender is BSP and you would likely have AN stuff on the hose, so yes, there would be the adapter you mention. But the block end will either be 1/8 NPT if that thread is still OK in there, or you can drill and tap it out to 1/4 BSP or NPT and use appropriate adapter there. As it stands, your mention of 1/8 BSPT male seems... wrong for the 1/8 NPT female it has to go into. The hose will be better, because even with the bush, the mass of the sender will be "hanging" off a hard threaded connection and will add some stress/strain to that. It might fail in the future. The hose eliminates almost all such risk - but adds in several more threaded connections to leak from! It really should be tapered, but it looks very long in that photo with no taper visible. If you have it in hand you should be able to see if it tapered or not. There technically is no possibility of a mechanical seal with a parallel male in a parallel female, so it is hard to believe that it is parallel male, but weirder things have happened. Maybe it's meant to seat on some surface when screwed in on the original installation? Anyway, at that thread size, parallel in parallel, with tape and goop, will seal just fine.
    • How do you propose I cable tie this: To something securely? Is it really just a case of finding a couple of holes and ziptying it there so it never goes flying or starts dangling around, more or less? Then run a 1/8 BSP Female to [hose adapter of choice?/AN?] and then the opposing fitting at the bush-into-oil-block end? being the hose-into-realistically likely a 1/8 BSPT male) Is this going to provide any real benefit over using a stainless/steel 1/4 to 1/8 BSPT reducing bush? I am making the assumption the OEM sender is BSPT not BSPP/BSP
    • I fashioned a ramp out of a couple of pieces of 140x35 lumber, to get the bumper up slightly, and then one of these is what I use
    • I wouldn't worry about dissimilar metal corrosion, should you just buy/make a steel replacement. There will be thread tape and sealant compound between the metals. The few little spots where they touch each other will be deep inside the joint, unable to get wet. And the alloy block is much much larger than a small steel fitting, so there is plenty of "sacrificial" capacity there. Any bush you put in there will be dissimilar anyway. Either steel or brass. Maybe stainless. All of them are different to the other parts in the chain. But what I said above still applies.
    • You are all good then, I didn't realise the port was in a part you can (have!) remove. Just pull the broken part out, clean it and the threads should be fine. Yes, the whole point about remote mounting is it takes almost all of the vibration out via the flexible hose. You just need a convenient chassis point and a cable tie or 3.
×
×
  • Create New...