Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi Guys,

I'm after some recommendations on a cheap Amp & Sub, audio is not my number one priority in the car, so it ceratinly doesn't have to be an award winning setup.

How are these for example, really bad?...

http://www.strathfield.com.au/product.asp?ProdID=76

http://www.strathfield.com.au/product.asp?ProdID=537

At the moment it still has the 4 speaker setup, with a semi decent Pioneer head unit that does the job. Front speakers are shite, rears seem OK, sorry for the lack of detail.

Do you run the sub and rears off the amp, and run the fronts off the head unit?

Where is the best place to install the amp & sub, I value my boot space, next to the battery?

Thanks for any help.

Are there any threads for newbies to read on audio?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/33728-audio-dummy-here/
Share on other sites

by the looks of it, it seems u have around less than $400 to spend on a sub and amp.

If u front speakers are good, yes, amp them with a 4 channel amp with 2 channels to the front, and the rear channels bridged to the sub.

leave the rear speakers running off the headunit.

Good subs for $200 might be the Alpine type s or the Fusion few-12 or JL-audio w0's . For $200 for the amp, look at something like a jaycar 4x50rms. This will bridge to 150rms at 4ohms for ur sub and 2x50rms for the front speakers. IMO those 3 subs above r better than that mtx. U'll need some money for cabling aswell, if ur gonna leave ur setup like that, 8Gauge cabling should be enough. 4G would be better, but i dont think u'll need it. Leave about $40 for that + all other wires rca's etc. $20 for wood for a box if u can build it urself. (sorry i went over the budget..but with the amp and subs u should look for 2nd hand or something and get the best possible thing u can when ur on a tight budget..maximise what ur getting).

good luck.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/33728-audio-dummy-here/#findComment-676748
Share on other sites

Pretty much same advice as nav2k.. just get some good fronts .. you can do without the sub for a while until you really want good big bass (or maybe you don't care about bass, depends what you listen to).

Best to stay clear of some of the "no-name" brands as while they might often say "800watt" 800watt can mean anything, and they could sound shithouse even at mild volume, and can have bad background hiss, etc which can really shit you when listening to quiet bits of music. Soon as you put it in you'll regret it. For under $200 for a "200watt max peak per channel" (equates to around 50wRMS.. not much more than your face unit), i'd definitely stay clear!!

For a reasonable 4x channel you're probably looking closer to $400 min. Like Nav2k says also, jaycar has some reasonably priced amps in the budget end. Just looking at their latest sale catalogue I have in front of me.. they have a 4x100w RMS (@4ohm) for $379.

I've got a mono amp of theirs powering my 12" sub, and pretty good... I only paid $130 for mine too! (a SAU group buy i organised).. RRP is about $200 - so you could look at that if all you want is an amp to power a sub.

Best just to get 2x best you can afford for front, 2x reasonable for rears.. and wait until you can afford the amps, etc. For many sometimes just 4x speakers powered off the face unit are fine.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/33728-audio-dummy-here/#findComment-677765
Share on other sites

yeah, I agree with the predator. Its no good getting a lot of bits n pieces if your not gonna get quality components cos all you'll end up doing is complicating the signal path which increases distortion. If you look at it another way: say if you had an awesome sub but a crappy amp, all the sub will do is let you hear the crappy signal from the amp clearly. Stay simple and get good bits, that way you can always add to what you've got, and not suddenly decide that what you have is crap once you get something better. A really good 4 speaker or even 2 speaker config if its set up right will destroy some of the no name budget sub n amp packages.

Actually, if audio is not ur priority you might want to consider some 6x9s and ditch the sub idea. True 6x9s aren't good for clarity, and most audiophiles would stay completely clear of those, but they are a good compromise for base. Think of it this way: the oblong shape stuffs up the clarity, but each one has approx surface area of an 8 inch sub - hence good for bass, not clarity. Would probably be ok if u had nice splits (ive never tried/heard this before though). At least you'll save on weight and space. But to get to the full potential of good 6x9s you'd need to run them off an amp though. The head unit will probably underpower them.

But then again, in audio it all depends on how deep you wanna go into it and how picky your ears are. ie: no point getting $800 splits if you cant hear the difference between $400 splits - some ppl can, some cant. Do what sounds good to you. Hope that helps. btw, when ur testing out spkrs on a demo wall, listen out for differences between spkrs on the same setup, same song cos they will inevitably sound completely different when installed in ur car.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/33728-audio-dummy-here/#findComment-678042
Share on other sites

Thanks guys, I'm taking your advice and holding off on the Amp & Sub till later.

For now I'm going to get some good quality front & rears.

Head unit is a Pioneer DEH-P2050 45x4.

The current rear speakers may still be stock, Clarion 30Watt's? (Sound better than the fronts ATM)

And the fronts I'm unsure, but there yellow.

I know how to access the rears but how do I access the fronts, I have to pull off the door trim right? But how?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/33728-audio-dummy-here/#findComment-679356
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...
  • 2 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The rain is the best time to push to the edge of the grip limit. Water lubrication reduces the consumption of rubber without reducing the fun. I take pleasure in driving around the outside of numpties in Audis, WRXs, BRZs, etc, because they get all worried in the wet. They warm up faster than the engine oil does.
    • When they're dead cold, and in the wet, they're not very fun. RE003 are alright, they do harden very quickly and turn into literally $50 Pace tyres.
    • Yeah, I thought that Reedy's video was quite good because he compared old and new (as in, well used and quite new) AD09s, with what is generally considered to be the fast Yokohama in this category (ie, sporty road/track tyres) and a tyre that people might be able to use to extend the comparo out into the space of more expensive European tyres, being the Cup 2. No-one would ever agree that the Cup 2 is a poor tyre - many would suggest that it is close to the very top of the category. And, for them all to come out so close to each other, and for the cheaper tyre in the test to do so well against the others, in some cases being even faster, shows that (good, non-linglong) tyres are reaching a plateau in terms of how good they can get, and they're all sitting on that same plateau. Anyway, on the AD08R, AD09, RS4 that I've had on the car in recent years, I've never had a problem in the cold and wet. SA gets down to 0-10°C in winter. Not so often, but it was only 4°C when I got in the car this morning. Once the tyres are warm (ie, after about 2km), you can start to lay into them. I've never aquaplaned or suffered serious off-corner understeer or anything like that in the wet, that I would not have expected to happen with a more normal tyre. I had some RE003s, and they were shit in the dry, shit in the wet, shit everywhere. I would rate the RS4 and AD0x as being more trustworthy in the wet, once the rubber is warm. Bridgestone should be ashamed of the RE003.
    • This is why I gave the disclaimer about how I drive in the wet which I feel is pretty important. I have heard people think RS4's are horrible in the rain, but I have this feeling they must be driving (or attempting to drive) anywhere close to the grip limit. I legitimately drive at the speed limit/below speed the limit 100% of the time in the rain. More than happy to just commute along at 50kmh behind a train of cars in 5th gear etc. I do agree with you with regards to the temp and the 'quality' of the tyre Dose. Most UHP tyres aren't even up to temperature on the road anyway, even when going mad initial D canyon carving. It would be interesting to see a not-up-to-temp UHP tyre compared against a mere... normal...HP tyre at these temperatures. I don't think you're (or me in this case) is actually picking up grip with an RS4/AD09 on the road relative to something like a RE003 because the RS4/AD09 is not up to temp and the RE003 is closer to it's optimal operating window.
    • Either the bearing has been installed backwards OR the gearbox input shaft bearing is loosey goosey.   When in doubt, just put in a Samsonas in.
×
×
  • Create New...