Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

well, i got a stockish settup, 3.5 inch zorst inc bell mouth, cat etc, fmic, bla bla

and i was running 10ish psi, and was fairly RR for watever reason, felt horrible on boost, turned it down to 6-7psi ish, and it feels faster and smoother... i know its technically not possible, but would the RR cause it to run so much slower?

or maybe my boost gauge is being a broad minded person?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/337892-turned-boost-down-feels-faster/
Share on other sites

well, i got a stockish settup, 3.5 inch zorst inc bell mouth, cat etc, fmic, bla bla

and i was running 10ish psi, and was fairly RR for watever reason, felt horrible on boost, turned it down to 6-7psi ish, and it feels faster and smoother... i know its technically not possible, but would the RR cause it to run so much slower?

or maybe my boost gauge is being a broad minded person?

If you were hitting R&R and it was going into spastic areas of the map, yes, you'll be quicker as the car will actually be running correct timing and fuelling on boost, meaning, it will make more power and save you fuel.

If you were hitting R&R and it was going into spastic areas of the map, yes, you'll be quicker as the car will actually be running correct timing and fuelling on boost, meaning, it will make more power and save you fuel.

+1

i posted dyno sheets and ecu maps on this ages ago.... more boost equals more fuel and way less timing so it it loses heaps of mid range. R34 is worse again.

got a link good sir? do you know what the best psi i should run on a stock turbo, new zorst fmic etc etc?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Thanks guys,  Yeah I should at least have them dynoed, at least then I know what I've got as a starting point.  The springs on these are hard as rocks. I vaguely remember Russman saying he was going to sell the shocks to me with the rocks fitted, as he was keeping the softer springs for his new setup.  I didn't click at the time but of course that was to let me know the shock/spring wouldn't be matched.  I also remember pricing up new springs around 2014-15, but, house, money etc. it never happened. So that was another reason to have them rebuilt. I have rebuilt the forks on many motorcycles so I think I could handle the seals on these easily enough, but getting the valving right would be a rabbit hole I cbf exploring.  Duncan, interesting to hear RP was tuning these back then. I might give them a call.  In the mean time I have been busy fitting sway bars. The Whiteline rear sway bar I purchased 15 years ago finally got fitted, along with the Whiteline front bar that showed up last week. Just waiting on new links for the front sway bar to finish that off.  And my spare set of advan AVS VS5's should be back from the powder coaters in a Pearl White finish sometime this week, with a set of Hankook RS4's lined up for fitting.  And then I just have all the suspension bushes to do. A comprehensive kit is on the way... Lots to do before the Ararat hill climb. Cheers guys 🍻   
    • Nice car! I’m glad folks in the US have gotten past the FnF and are buying real cool cars like the 260RS I was with a bunch of mates in Portland about a year ago and spotted a green Stagea (just a regular 2.5T AWD) parked about 2 blocks away and they were like “a what?” So I made a bet with them for a round of beers and said “ok one of you run down there and tell me if the steering wheel is on the correct side” 5 mins later the American comes trudging back up the hill and goes “he’s right guys. Ok what beer do you want?”
    • Should replace OR drop the tank, give it's good clean. Might be worth replacing that entire fuel level/pump/cradle thing with this: https://frenchysperformancegarage.com/products/fpg-s13-180sx-r32gtst-single-pump-hanger-kit-billet-hat-6-v3-fpg-089?gQT=2  
    • Thank you so much for the help
    • Yes it is ATF. I quote @Duncan "it takes a good synthentic auto trans fluid like Castrol Transmax Z" It's not a diff. It's a transfer case. Totally different thing. Yes, fluid will come out the sender hole. No you do not really need to drain it. Just pull the old, quickly poke the new, clean up and top up. But realistically, you should probably take the opportunity to change it anyway.
×
×
  • Create New...