Jump to content
SAU Community

Burning A Set Of Plugs Every 8 Months To A Year?

gts-4 dreamer

By gts-4 dreamer,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

blah_blah Grand Master

blah_blah

Posted
Posted
I do mine with oil every 5000km. You could also look at bosch plats, ~$40 for 6 from repco, they go pretty well. Not sure how long they last, prob not much longer than the coppers...

Jeez that's alot of work! How long does it take you to do a set of plugs for the GTT?

I need to attempt this myself one day via the tutorials on here :P

Galois Veteran

Galois

Posted
Posted
Jeez that's alot of work! How long does it take you to do a set of plugs for the GTT?

I need to attempt this myself one day via the tutorials on here :P

Half an hour with practice? Maybe a little longer but not much. I was surprised when one of the more experienced guys told me half an hour before I'd changed them for the first time, cos the first time takes like 2 hours haha. But yeah, once you know exactly what you're doing and have loosened all the bolts with a few changes it's pretty straightforward.

MrStabby Grand Master

MrStabby

Posted
Posted

IMO This thread should be about what causes plugs to foul, not what material they are made of.....

AFAIK fouling is about tune (including injector spray quality), heat range and usage. Blind elk is on the right track, as is the OP for trying going back to the original heat range and taking out the colder plugs.

If you want to keep using the colder plugs you could use the old Ferrari mechanic "torino tuneup", that is, take it for a thrash. Or change the tune.

FWIW CRD didnt use coppers in my car and they're lasting well so far (over 20,000kms). YMMV.

gts-4 dreamer Mentor

gts-4 dreamer

Posted
  • Author
Posted

So I did a shit tonne of work on the car, replaced the leaking gasket and replaced all the exhuast mani studs while I was there. fixed my intake piping up as it had come loose so it's all tight and responsive like she hasn't been in a while. that said, did an oil flush, replaced the oil filter and swapped out the plugs. usually when I get hesitation up top it's plugs.

This time the hesitation seems slightly worse with the new copper plugs in the original heat range.

I have nfi why the stupid this is hesitating on boost over 4k now. Time for a profesional with a dyno?

DVS JEZ Grand Master

DVS JEZ

Posted
Posted
So I did a shit tonne of work on the car, replaced the leaking gasket and replaced all the exhuast mani studs while I was there. fixed my intake piping up as it had come loose so it's all tight and responsive like she hasn't been in a while. that said, did an oil flush, replaced the oil filter and swapped out the plugs. usually when I get hesitation up top it's plugs.

This time the hesitation seems slightly worse with the new copper plugs in the original heat range.

I have nfi why the stupid this is hesitating on boost over 4k now. Time for a profesional with a dyno?

Did u set the plug gap lower than stock? U runnin stock coils?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Duncan
      Lock up the old for sale / wtb threads.

      By Duncan · Posted

      Ha, I've never pressed the X in all these years incase it removed the notification for all Admins
    • Duncan
      Blue/grey smoke after idle

      By Duncan · Posted

      I don't know, I've never done it that way, but 1. While it is an interference engine, there is still clearance between the valves and the piston at all points in the regular timing cycle 2. There is not a lot of distance before you can't catch the top of the valve stem any more I don't know if 2 is greater or less than 1. But 3. If it doesn't work out you are f**ked, engine is coming out to disassemble so it is a big bet.
    • Duncan
      Unpeeling the Orange

      By Duncan · Posted

      Semi slicks are horrible for road use, just use a high performance road tyre unless you really need the maximum grip. Noisy, unpredictable (amazing, until they are not), expensive due to very high wear and not good in cold and particular wet. And yes, it is a thing to store cars on stands instead of tyres if you know they are going to be parked up long term.....but who ever realises that a short park is going to stretch into years before it is out again!
    • MBS206
      Unpeeling the Orange

      By MBS206 · Posted

      I know in Australia you'll definitely get above 30c. Parked in the shade in Summer you'll be above that. 😛 But in cooler climates, you might get that warm driving on the highway for a bit, but you'd never get to full heat temp. I'll try and find some of my historical tyre temps between Aus summer and winter (be aware immin the warmer area of Aus too.)
    • sunsetR33
      Blue/grey smoke after idle

      By sunsetR33 · Posted

      I get that taking off the head is best but that's a bit much for "just" valve seals. I was just under the impression that one would be able to rotate to TDC and be able to temporarily drop the valve without losing it and effectively having to remove the head to then recover it. I never knew people actually pushed rope into the cylinder to do valve seals hahaha So just to confirm, just going to TDC will not work? In that case I know when I do valve seals I'll maybe just remove the head and do some other things while I'm there, or just wait until I do an engine build.
×
×
  • Create New...