Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

No luck for me on torque. I was already using the init string valf posted. Not convinced my 327 is working. I've heard a great deal of the cheap Chinese 327's have faulty J1850 PWM capability. I've ordered a v-gate from Sydney.

Edited by BoostdR

It's kinda awesome, the more I look the more data I find. Even has stuff I didn't see on my consult 3. Updated with more pics in previous post. Update rate is fine. Best thing is it is stable. No crashes. Let's see if we can log. That would seal the deal.

Update rate is reported as 201ms if I'm reading it correctly

Edited by BoostdR
  • Like 1

I have another Chinese consult 3 on the way which they promise will be stable. Be interesting to find out if the replacement is. Although I think Scotty has a stable consult 3 with a different version of software.

BoostdR, is that with the same elm adapter you tried Torque with?

I've finally received my usb elm adapter, will start trying out things on my side but it's really cool to know HobDrive supports our cars :)

Will use it as a reference to make sure my adapter isn't faulty.

Pretty busy lately so I won't do much coding soon but I'm definitely still keen to get something cool to read sensors and read/reset DTC codes.

Thanks again BoostdR ;)

BoostdR, is that with the same elm adapter you tried Torque with?

I've finally received my usb elm adapter, will start trying out things on my side but it's really cool to know HobDrive supports our cars :)

Will use it as a reference to make sure my adapter isn't faulty.

Pretty busy lately so I won't do much coding soon but I'm definitely still keen to get something cool to read sensors and read/reset DTC codes.

Thanks again BoostdR ;)

No worries Valf. I tried torque today with the new adaptor but had no luck getting it to connect to the adaptor or ecu, I'm sure it's possible for the adaptor anyway. May need to remove all my previous setting and start again.

HobDrive have kindly given me a 50% off coupon code for the app which I am allowed to give to SAU members. I just can't publicly post it. PM me if you would like the code. :D

Matt

Edited by BoostdR
  • Like 2

I might dig out my OBDLink and see if I can get it to work with the HobDrive demo. I never had any luck with their scan tool app, but it'd be a nice win if it works with an alternative app! Im not going to hold my breath though :P

I have the full version up and running, haven't noticed any major difference from the demo version, but it's early days.

I did learn the mini Bluetooth Chinese ELM327's in a version 2.1 don't work as they are a clone chip. The v1.4 and 1.5 are better apparently. Also most android based double din stereos have a non standard cut down Bluetooth stack so most Bluetooth ELM327's don't work anyway.

Anyway the main screen really needs to have the sensors customized to be of value to us. This can be done, but at simple coding level. I'll look at it when I'm at work next.

I haven't had a chance to clear any CEL's as I don't have any atm.

There is some level of graphing/logging for fuel trims and lambda but nothing like torque or Nissan Data Scan offer with selected sensor X-Y axis logging.

There is a fast scan option which looks to double the update rate.

I'll have a read through the manual prob on Sat as I have a couple of cars to dyno tomorrow.

Matt

My replacement consult 3 arrived. It's just as unstable as my original. Seems to be the norm.

I asked hobdrive to customize the general screen to our sensors. Will see how it goes. Been nice and stable for me so far.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • So stock ECU does not like anything above 10 psi?  That Nistune one is just for "try" if it will be any different, I know it need to be tune for that. I know but YOU may know about these problem but i/we dont. They few little Skylines here let alone people who know anything about tham so that is why iam asking here  
    • So now we have a radiator with no attachments whatsoever. It lifts up with a particularly tight spot between the drivers side air box mount and the lower radiator outlet, but if you've got this far you will sort that too. This is the lower mounts with the rad out so you can see where the rubber bushes go, it is a straight shot upwards Done! Assembly is the reverse of disassembly, with blood less likely to be shed.
    • Right, onto the second last trick. The Air Con condenser is mounted to the front of the radiator and stays in the car when the radiator is removed. There are 2x 10mm headed self tappers holding the top of the condenser to the radiator, remove those The bottom of the condenser is attached to the radiator with clips. You need to lift the condenser out of those clips and clear (up, then forward). f**ked if  could work out how to do that last bit with the front bumper on. I hope you can, and you share the trick.  Bumper removal probably deserves its own thread one day once I've recovered the will to live, but basically you need to remove the wheels, front inner guard liners (clips and 10mm headed bolts), the self tapper between the guard and the bumper at the rearmost point of the bumper (same as an R32 that bit), any remaining clips at the top/front of the grill, an absolute bastard design with a plate that holds the top of the bumper above the headlight each side (only 1 bolt which is tricky to get to, but the plate catches 2 places on the bumper and must be removed....carefully!) and push clips between the bumper and guard under the headlight. If you've done all that you will be faced with wiring for the fog lights on both sides and in ADM Q50 RS at least, 4 nasty tight plugs on the driver's side for the ADAS stuff. So, the clips at the bottom look like this on drivers side (looking from the front) And on the passenger side (also from the front), you can see this one is already out Clearance on both of these are super tight; the condenser needs to move up but the upper rad support mount prevents that, and the radiator can't move down far because it is (rubber) mounted. Once you achieve the impossible and drop the condenser off those mounts so it does not stop the rad moving, you are good to go
    • OK, next the shroud needs to come off and there are a couple of tricks. Firstly, there is a loom from near the passenger side headlight to the fans, coolant temp sensor etc and there is no plug to undo.  In my case I was OK to leave the shroud on top of the engine so I just undid the passenger side fan plug and about 10 of the clips which gave enough free wire to put it aside. The fan plugs were super tight, the trick I used was a small falt screwdriver to push down on the release tab, then a larger flat screwdriver to lever the plug out of the fan unit....be careful with how much force you apply! If you need to remove the shroud altogether for some reason you will have to deal with all the plugs (tight) and clips (brittle)....good luck. I removed all of the clips and replaced them with cable ties that I will just cut next time. Also, in the Red Sport / 400R at least, the intake heat exchanger reservoir hose is bolted to the shroud in 2 places with 10mm headed bolts; so remove them (the hose stays in the car; no need to undo it at the t fittings down at the radiator lower mount. Once you've dealt with the HX hose and the wiring loom, there are 3x 10mm headed self tappers holding the top of the shroud to the radiator; remove those.   The shroud then lifts out of the bottom mounts where it sits on the radiator, up and onto the engine out of the way. Simples
    • Ok, disregard my “rate them” comment, sorry for my unrealistic input
×
×
  • Create New...