Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hmm, this sounds good. I could setup a switch to enable the lockup circuit again for when im highway driving (like going to melbourne for my tune)

lol love this ghetto mod. thanks scott.

worth doing it knowing its going to be a little safer being cooled. :P

are you SURE it actually closes the transmission cooler?

it would seem VERY irregular to stop the transmission cooler from working when youre in a mode where you need it more. are you sure it doesnt restrict the fluid passage to the cooler to increase the pressure in the gearbox? that would make it shift a little faster giving it a 'sports' feel

are you SURE it actually closes the transmission cooler?

it would seem VERY irregular to stop the transmission cooler from working when youre in a mode where you need it more. are you sure it doesnt restrict the fluid passage to the cooler to increase the pressure in the gearbox? that would make it shift a little faster giving it a 'sports' feel

I have the full Re5 trans rebuild manual here that says so Iain. Also, I blew my box on the dyno due to overheating in manual, on the stock turbo at 179kw if I remember. In drive there is no problem as the cooling cct is working.

Nissan designed it that way because once the torque converter is locked you dont need cooling. (other than the lockup clutch slipping to buggery as I found out)

I blew my box on the dyno due to overheating in manual, on the stock turbo at 179kw if I remember.

You sure that was the reason bud?

Wouldn't have something more to do with the Dextron that was in it?

Pretty sure that our trans can deal with 180awkw... even in manual mode.

Nissan designed it that way because once the torque converter is locked you dont need cooling. (other than the lockup clutch slipping to buggery as I found out)

hmm... this doesn't explain why the transmission lever (just above the shift gate) is still cool and my PWR cooler is damn hot whenever I get home from work (~30mins highway travel)

Shouldn't this be the other way around if the cooler is bypassed once the torque converter locks up?

You sure that was the reason bud?

Wouldn't have something more to do with the Dextron that was in it?

Pretty sure that our trans can deal with 180awkw... even in manual mode.

hmm... this doesn't explain why the transmission lever (just above the shift gate) is still cool and my PWR cooler is damn hot whenever I get home from work (~30mins highway travel)

Shouldn't this be the other way around if the cooler is bypassed once the torque converter locks up?

I never proved either way, I doubt the fluid ever got changed. I know it has Dextron in it now. :)

Im only going by what the auto joint said, I am looking into the valve body section now, the cooler circuit may well work, now I have seen various reasons for the radiator to overheat at idle like the airlock, it could possibly explain the overheating I was getting.

It still doesn't help me of course, I lock the converter manually with a 12v switch on the dyno, it wont hold in 4th or 5th, only the lower gears, which is understandable as it isnt a very big clutch anyway. With the factory trans ecu softly actuating the lockup, even in manual, it will be slipping and heating the fluid even at stock power levels.

  • 2 months later...

I finally got around to installing this actuator today, I put a stronger spring on and fit it to the turbo with little hassle.

With no controller it held a stable 17.5 psi, with the BOV grubscrew mod it sat on a steady 19. That's a perfect base to start from I think. :)

Im going to run it up on the dyno tomorrow and see how everything looks but the Emanage logs showed me the AFR's are all good. It certainly feels better, driving around.

post-63525-0-42138800-1295782180_thumb.jpg

I finally got around to installing this actuator today, I put a stronger spring on and fit it to the turbo with little hassle.

With no controller it held a stable 17.5 psi, with the BOV grubscrew mod it sat on a steady 19. That's a perfect base to start from I think. :)

Im going to run it up on the dyno tomorrow and see how everything looks but the Emanage logs showed me the AFR's are all good. It certainly feels better, driving around.

EBC !! dont forget

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • My guesstimate, with no real numbers to back it up, is it won't effect it greatly at all.its not a huge change in position, and I can't see the air flow changing from in turbulence that much based on distance, and what's in front of it. Johnny and Brad may have some more numbers to share from experience though.
    • Which solenoid? Why was it changed? Again, why was this done? ...well, these wear..but ultimately, why was it changed? Did you reset the idle voltage level after fitment? I'm just a tad confused ~ the flash code doesn't allude to these items being faulty, so in my mind the only reason to change these things, would be some drive-ability issue....and if that's the case, what was the problem? Those questions aside, check if the dropping resistor is OK ...should be 11~14 ohms (TCU doesn't throw a flash code for this) ~ also, these TCU designs have full time power (to keep fault code RAM alive), and I think that'll throw a logic code (as opposed to the 10 hardware codes), if that power is missing (or the ram has gone bad in the TCU, which you can check..but that's another story here perhaps).
    • Question for people who "know stuff" I am looking at doing the new intake like the one in the picture (the pictured is designed for the OEM TB and intake plenum), this design has the filter behind the front bar, but, the filter sits where the OEM duct heads into the front bar, and the standard aperture when the OEM ducting is removed allows the filter to pulled back out of the front bar into the engine bay for servicing, a simple blanking plate is used to seal the aperture behind the filter This will require a 45° silicone hose from the TB, like the alloy pipe that is currently there, to another 45° silicone hose to get a straight run to the aperture in the front bar Question: how will it effect the tune if I move the MAF about 100-150mm forward, the red is around where my MAF is currently, and the green would be where it would end up Like this This is the hole the filter goes through  Ends up like this LOL..Cheers    
    • Despite the level up question, actually I do know what that is....it is a pressure sender wire.  So check out around the oil filter for an oil pressure sender, or maybe fuel pressure near the filter or on the engine. Possibly but less likely coolant pressure sensor because they tend to be combined temp/pressure senders if you have one. Could also be brake pressure (in a brake line somewhere pre ABS) but maybe I'm the only one that has that on a skyline.
    • Pull codes via the self-diagnosis procedure. As far as I can tell this is just a sign of transmission issues but not a code unto itself.
×
×
  • Create New...