Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Need to change my turbo,so, can it be done DIY style?Is it only the 6 bolts on the dump pipe,the 4 bolts grabing the manifold,the 2 oil lines and the oil dump pipe?

Any piece of advise will be welcome...

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/338555-turbo-change/
Share on other sites

9 bolts holding it in place ( dump and manifold) undo them without f**king anything and its a matter of 2x 24m i think water banjos and the top oil feed bolt which is a 15m i think... the bottom oil drain should just pull out if u take off the clamp.... change over is simple... but the work after like tuning etc.. for the new turbo u cant do well unless u tune cars for a living.. lol

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/338555-turbo-change/#findComment-5470766
Share on other sites

Have a look in the DIY/Tutorual section, there will be something over there, something like R33 turbo into a R32 is a common tutorial. I know it's not a stagea but it's basically the same thing.

Give yourself a couple of days to get it done in, just in case. Think about soaking all the turbo bolts in some WD40/Inox/CRC the day before pulling it down, and if they start binding up coming off wind them back on a bit, give them a spray and slowly work them off. Its also a good idea to change both the gaskets to the turbo while it's off. Just take it slow and steady and it should be relatively easy, start rushing the job and your bound to stuff it up.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/338555-turbo-change/#findComment-5470844
Share on other sites

+ 1 on changing ALL gaskets while its off. Dont skimp on them, the last thing you want to do it change gaskets 6 months down the track after all this hard work.

remember to remove the water and oil lines BEFORE you try to take the turbo and manifold off. many people dont and bend the lines too much and they never go back. if you can stretch the budget, get a set of braided oil and water lines. well worth the money and trouble.

when removing the manifold. dont take each nut off one at a time. do them as per the service manual, there will be an order that you should remove the nuts in. this will stop the last nut from getting stuck.

if you find its pulling out the stud with the nut, just let it come out, youre not going to break it. you can put in a new stud.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/338555-turbo-change/#findComment-5470873
Share on other sites

Did mine with the help of my old man a few years back (ok, actually, he did a majority of the work...). It's a fiddly and time consuming job, but not hard in a technical aspect. I think we did it in about 5hrs, which is not bad considering he'd never worked on anything with a turbocharged car before, despite 40-odd years of tinkling with cars in just about every area except major electrics or auto boxes.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/338555-turbo-change/#findComment-5471621
Share on other sites

Thanks,for all the answers...though that the water/oil lines were the difficult part as I already changed my dump pipe so the main difference are the 4 bolts holding the turbo.

It really happens in a bad moment ,I need to get the 100000 Ks. major service and the brakes(started to get parts to do the R33 swap)

Every thing happened at the same time...but think that turbo is first cause I feel like driving a vacum cleaner...and all the options but short of cash(get an R34 turbo,send mine to be fix,pry and wait until somebody gets rid of a hi flowed/hi performance one at acheap price)...

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/338555-turbo-change/#findComment-5471709
Share on other sites

I've done it and yes it was a PITA. That 24mm banjo was the worst. Had to get a ring/OE and cut the ring part off and use a tube for leverage. Dont forget the lock tabs for the turbo bolts. An absolute must. Lots of WD etc if you take the manny off. I boke 4 studs and one , at No6, was not there. If you break studs you can get a mobile guy to come out. They drill with left hand bits which tend to ease the broken part out.

Before you start get a big pak of Band Aids.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/338555-turbo-change/#findComment-5471761
Share on other sites

when i did it someone suggested a technique to use and i dodn't brake anything

if the dump bots start getting tight, just go back the other way for a turn or so and give it another go

add some wd40 when that happens too

and wd it well in advance too

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/338555-turbo-change/#findComment-5472449
Share on other sites

Yeah, those RB studs are a weak link. Dont forget if you do break a stud you can get the mobile "Stud" man to get them out. As I said before a local, yep on Mt Tamborine had all the good left hand drill bits. And he got them out of the block with the motor in place. Big relief,

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/338555-turbo-change/#findComment-5473322
Share on other sites

when i did it someone suggested a technique to use and i dodn't brake anything

if the dump bots start getting tight, just go back the other way for a turn or so and give it another go

add some wd40 when that happens too

and wd it well in advance too

i worked out a good technique when doing the rolla gt25 hiflow diy.

I had a bolt with a washer head that was hitting the dump and didnt have enough clearance..so i angle grinded it off.

and i found it was best to get fresh studs and nuts from preferably the turbo shop to match your own.. then put two nuts on the one stud to tighten to the correct area (and dont forget to put locktie quick release goo on them) and the same again to get them off.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/338555-turbo-change/#findComment-5476138
Share on other sites

  • 4 weeks later...

Now turbo is out and just waiting for it to come from Hypergear...two question ;can I reuse the T3 gasket? and how tight do the bolts that hold the turbo to the mani should be?they were nearly hand tight when i took them...

Thanks...

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/338555-turbo-change/#findComment-5521151
Share on other sites

Now turbo is out and just waiting for it to come from Hypergear...two question ;can I reuse the T3 gasket? and how tight do the bolts that hold the turbo to the mani should be?they were nearly hand tight when i took them...

Thanks...

i suppose you could reuse it if its in ok condition, i just that you can pick up a new one for around $20 so why not change it, it would be a real pain if you had to pull it all off again to change it out if it doesn't seal up properly. the nuts should be up tighter than that, but they do work themselves loose over time (and by time i mean years) with the heat, thats why the locking tabs are on there.

how did you go removing it all, easy enough?

Edited by QWK32
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/338555-turbo-change/#findComment-5521267
Share on other sites

did a gt25 highflow on a 1.8l rolla sportivo recently.. and it wasnt a hard job.

but fwd so the turbo was easily accessible.

stock ecu handled it also.. didnt go too nuts in the highflow no boost cut , or detonation.

t pieced to 18psi.

reused all gaskets works fine.

43mm inducer to 48mm

on the intake side.. cant remember what the zorst side was but it goes fantastic for a shitbox.

Edited by PetroDola
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/338555-turbo-change/#findComment-5522062
Share on other sites

Replace all studs, nuts and washers while you have it apart. Otherwise the ones that survived the disassembly will snap when you put it back together...

toyo wanted 186$ for the zorst gasket and 92$ a bolt. dump and turbo manifold gaskets were around 100$ also ....that happens when theres only 110 of them.

i got 4 matching studs and nuts to replace the turbo/dump ones that were crusty and got them from mtq for nothing (they did the hiflow for $1400 )

toyo also wanted 5k to replace the stock ihi rb6 turbo when i asked them out of curiousity.. which was stupid tiny.

oh they also wanted $1687 for a replacement turbo zorst manifold because one of the headers on mine spat a hole.

welded it for $80.

absolute jokers.

ill be diying the stagea turbo also.. stuffed im paying someone else.. who will do a half assed job anyway.. so what if it takes a few days longer.. least then you can make sure its done properly every step of the way!

c34 will be a sinch also compared to nm35's

the "engine out" vg30 legacy lives on in vq!

Edited by PetroDola
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/338555-turbo-change/#findComment-5522087
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi, is the HKS  Tower Bar still available ? negotiable ? 🤔
    • From there, it is really just test and assemble. Plug the adapter cables from the unit into the back of the screen, then the other side to the car harness. Don't forget all the other plugs too! Run the cables behind the unit and screw it back into place (4 screws) and you should now have 3 cables to run from the top screen to the android unit. I ran them along the DS of the other AV units in the gap between their backets and the console, and used some corrugated tubing on the sharp edges of the bracket so the wires were safe. Plug the centre console and lower screen in temporarily and turn the car to ACC, the AV should fire up as normal. Hold the back button for 3 sec and Android should appear on the top screen. You need to set the input to Aux for audio (more on that later). I put the unit under the AC duct in the centre console, with the wifi antenna on top of the AC duct near the shifter, the bluetooth antenna on the AC duct under the centre console The GPS unit on top of the DS to AC duct; they all seem to work OK there are are out of the way. Neat cable routing is a pain. For the drive recorder I mounted it near the rear view mirror and run the cable in the headlining, across the a pillar and then down the inside of the a pillar seal to the DS lower dash. From there it goes across and to one USB input for the unit. The second USB input is attached to the ECUtec OBD dongle and the 3rd goes to the USB bulkhead connected I added in the centre console. This is how the centre console looks "tidied" up Note I didn't install the provided speaker, didn't use the 2.5mm IPod in line or the piggyback loom for the Ipod or change any DIP switches; they seem to only be required if you need to use the Ipod input rather than the AUX input. That's it, install done, I'll follow up with a separate post on how the unit works, but in summary it retains all factory functions and inputs (so I still use my phone to the car for calls), reverse still works like factory etc.
    • Place the new daughterboard in the case and mount it using the 3 small black rivets provided, and reconnect the 3 factory ribbon cables to the new board Then, use the 3 piggyback cables from the daughterboard into the factory board on top (there are stand offs in the case to keep them apart. and remember to reconnect the antenna and rear cover fan wires. 1 screw to hold the motherboard in place. Before closing the case, make a hole in the sticker covering a hole in the case and run the cable for the android unit into the plug there. The video forgot this step, so did I, so will you probably. Then redo the 4 screws on back, 2 each top and bottom, 3 each side and put the 2 brackets back on.....all ready to go and not that tricky really.      
    • Onto the android unit. You need to remove the top screen because there is a daughterboard to put inside the case. Each side vent pops out from clips; start at the bottom and carefully remove upwards (use a trim remover tool to avoid breaking anything). Then the lower screen and controls come out, 4 screws, a couple of clips (including 3 flimsy ones at the top) and 3 plugs on the rear. Then the upper screen, 4 screws and a bunch of plugs and she is out. From there, remove the mounting brackets (2 screws each), 4 screws on the rear, 2 screws top and bottom and 3 screws holding in the small plates on each side. When you remove the back cover (tight fit), watch out for the power cable for the fan, I removed it so I could put the back aside. The mainboard is held in by 1 screw in the middle, 1 aerial at the top and 3 ribbon cables. If you've ever done any laptop stuff the ribbon cables are OK to work with, just pop up the retainer and they slide out. If you are not familiar just grab a 12 year old from an iphone factory, they will know how it works The case should now look like this:
    • Switching the console was tricky. First there were 6 screws to remove, and also the little adapter loom and its screws had to come out. Also don't forget to remove the 2 screws holding the central locking receiver. Then there are 4 clips on either side....these were very tight in this case and needed careful persuading with a long flat screw driver....some force required but not enough to break them...this was probably the fiddliest part of the whole job. In my case I needed both the wiring loom and the central locking receiver module to swap across to the new one. That was it for the console, so "assembly is the reverse of disassembly"
×
×
  • Create New...