Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys as the Title says im lookin for a good builder in sydney to do my forged 26 , ive asked a few people and they all just wanna recommend their mates so im tryin to get a wider prospective, Have done a search and Proengines seem to be a popular choice so far, if theres anyone else that is a known expert on rb26 then id appreciate it if yas let us know

cheers Joe

Edited by GTR_JOEY
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/338725-recommened-rb26-builders-in-sydney/
Share on other sites

lol Mir u wouldnt happen to work at 17 would ya? yeah ive spoken to unigroup, they're definatly on my list atm as ill be gettin it tuned there, cheers TBAG

Joe

Ahhh, so its you hey, I seen this 32 sitting out the back of the workshop, though it was dumped so I stripped it, LOL.

What was the verdict, piston ?

cheers guys ill hit those workshops up and see what they can do, what sorta price range to do the rebuild for yas?

lol, its still insured mate so can u take the whole thing, I put it in the shed out back if ur still lookin for it haha

ahh got the head off yesterday and its got damage to the piston in the valve clearance, looks sorta pitted, still doesnt really explain 0 compression though, have to check the rings now.

hmm the pitting is on both valve reliefs and the valves look ok.... ive come with the terms that i want a forged rebuild and im goin to put some decent power through it anyway, in additon the engine was put together like crap, done 12,000kms since the build and its got oil leak, loose bolts, rust on the inlet cam lobes... just a rubbish job and im not puttin 600hp through it casue it wont last lol

croydon racing.

they might be abit more expensive but i wouldnt trust anyone else. quality of work and attention to detail is amazing.

they built my 26 (600 hp) and havnt had a single problem and they were extremley helpful through out the whole build which was a year ago now.

u dont want sum1 who is just going to slap the engine together and send you on your way

This is another one where people need to refer to THIS...

There are too many people with varying experiences at different workshops, so the best bet is to make a few calls or visits to workshops YOU'VE got in mind and make up YOUR OWN decision based on how comfortable YOU are with the information YOU'VE been given.

Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Try looking at Eibacb/H&R springs Thats what Gary sourced for mine.
    • Hey y'all! I'm curious about how y'all go about widebodying your cars. I noticed that when running a square setup, my front wheels are a bit more tucked in than my rear wheels. Not by much, maybe 5-10mm. This leads me to wonder - when I widebody, should I use narrower front flares and wider rear flares? I found a set of 40mm rear flares that I really like, and was thinking of pairing them with some 18mm front flares, but I don't want the car to look strange. How have others done this? Note, I'm in a sedan. Thanks!
    • And if it was anything other than an auto tranny part, it might be a problem. But seeing as all auto trannies belong in the recycling bin, it's fine.
    • I have an R32 Fenix rad. It is good.
    • All the schemas I can see, indicate your typical setup of ATF 'cooler' (read: heat exchanger) in the bottom radiator tank..ie; https://nissan.epc-data.com/stagea/wgnc34/5413-rb25det/engine/214/ ...but I can prattle on a bit here. These trannies have a thermistor in the sump ~ the TCU reads this and 1. bumps the line pressure up when the ATF is 'cold' and 2. prevents the TC lockup clutch from operating, until the ATF comes up to minimum operating temp (keeps the ATF 'churning' through the TC so it heats up quicker) -- trigger point is around 55C. In these conditions, the engine coolant temperature rises faster than the ATF temperature, and also helps heat the ATF up, which is why it's best to think of the in radiator tank setup as a heat exchanger ; the heat can flow in both directions... ...with these trannies, the 'hot' ATF comes out the front banjo bolt, flows through the cooler/heat exchanger, and returns to the box  via the rear banjo bolt. This gets a mention, due to the wildly different opinions wrt running auto trans fluid coolers ~ do you bypass the in radiator tank altogether, or put the cooler inline with the in radiator tank system...and then, do you put the additional cooler before of after the in radiator tank system?... ....fact is the nominal engine operating temp (roughly 75C), happens to be the ideal temperature for the ATF used in these trannies as well (no surprises there), so for the in radiator tank system to actually 'cool' the ATF, the ATF temp has to be hotter than that...lets say 100C -- you've got 25C of 'excess' heat, (slowly) pumping into the 75C coolant. This part of the equation changes drastically, when you've got 100C ATF flowing through an air cooled radiator ; you can move a lot more excess heat, faster ~ it is possible to cool the ATF 'too much' as it were...(climate matters a lot)... ...in an 'ideal' setup, what you're really trying to control here, is flash heating of the ATF, primarily produced by the TC interface. In a perfect world, wrt auto trans oil cooling, you want a dedicated trans cooler with builtin thermostatic valving - they exist. These should be run inline and before the in radiator tank system ~ when 'cold' the valving bypasses the fin stack, allowing the ATF to flow direct to the in radiator tank heat exchanger, so it works 'as intended' with helping heat the ATF up. When 'hot' (iirc it was 50C threshold), the valving shuts forcing the ATF through the cooler fin stack, and onto the in radiator tank heat exchanger...and you sort of think of it as a 'thermal conditioner' of sorts...ie; if you did cool your ATF down to 65C, the coolant will add a little heat, otherwise it works as intended... ...the 'hot' ATF coming from the front bango bolt, is instantiated from the TC when in use, so all/any flash heated oil, flows to the fluid-to-air cooler first, and because of the greater heat differential, you can get rid of this heat fast. Just how big (BTU/h) this cooler needs to be to effectively dissipate this TC flash heat, is the charm...too many variables to discuss here, but I just wanted to point out the nitty-gritty of automatic trans fluid coolers ~ they're a different beastie to what most ppl think of when considering an 'oil cooler'... /3.5cents   
×
×
  • Create New...