Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Awesome! Is it fussy about what type of video files?

Also, how bright is the screen in the car when it brings up split times etc.? I took my brother's car out to Wakefield yesterday which had an Aim dash, and in the sunlight I couldn't see a thing!

It's been about 18mths since I've used both Dashware and the LT-Q6000 but you just import the video file from your gopro or contour then import the data file from the qstarz then sync them together in Dashware.

I can't remember how bright and clear the screen is as Wakefield Park you are driving into the sun down the main straight. It is a much more clear and easier to read screen than the old PerformanceBox units (which I also have).

Also, how does it work out where you are on the track when you add the video file? Have you found it to be accurate?

Just can't work out how the video and data logging lines up accurately without any data from the video file.

The Qstarz unit you have to set a start/finish and also splits on the unit or in Dashware when you edit it together (which is the biggest let down of the Qstarz).

The Performance box you can actually download configuration files from there website of popular tracks from around Australia and the World and load them into the PB and it will have perfectly set start/finish and splits.

The Qstarz has an internal battery which when fully charged should get you through 2 full trackdays. The PerformanceBox has no internal battery and needs a cigarette lighter socket (which I had to get installed in my little car).

Phunky_Monkey has been using my LT-Q6000 the past few weeks so maybe he will have some feedback and/or video's available from his weekend at Phillip Island :)

You also have to manually sync the video and GPS data. So be sure to set the clock on the gopro so you can easily match video file to GPS data set. In dash ware you the have to use a slider bar to line up the data.

If you aren't good with software then you should just pay for a more expensive unit that does it all. I'm pretty savvy but I know others find it difficult.

When I have my lt6000 mounted on the windscreen I have no problem seeing it. I keep it set in lap time but it uses splits to estimate how you are going. Better than best lap will have green background and worse has red background while giving you a stop watch style counter on screen.

I like the Qstarz unit because it seems like it would give instant easy to understand feedback on the track. Green means fast, Red means slow.

+/- 0.2 sec seems like a lot of a difference though, have you tested the times against a beacon timer?

And with the video syncing, do you basically set the time of day on the video file, sync it with the GPS unit and match them that way?

Yes 0.2 is against drag and lap timers. Think about it, if your GPS is polling 10 times per second that's 0.1 s per data point. Dashware and QStarz software seem to calc crossing the line differently. Most of the time it's pretty close to Natsoft but can be out up to 0.2 across different software packages.

If you want more accuracy you have to be willing to pay $100's more. Just part of the technology really.

And Jimmy, you still have to open both video and GPS files, pick a point on the track and sync them that way. It's a but if guess work to get it right. Think about it, you aren't starting the video and GPS capture at exactly the same time at the track so you have to do it manually on your computer in Dashware.

All just part of learning to deal with the Tech. I can get it down to about 10 minutes of fiddling now, but that's after lots and lots of practice.

here's the last session (5 laps) recorded on my 1hz iPhone lap timer app compared to the transponder timing at Lakeside, in Nev's Z at Lakeside last week (I had to park my car after the first session so I put the iPhone in Nev's Z) :

post-15659-0-37293400-1380065747_thumb.jpg

as you can see the errors on those last 5laps are 0.02, 0.01, 0.03, 0.01, and 0.05

If a 10hz GPS timer's accuracy is an order of magnitude worse, something's wrong!

I think it is mainly due to the software and approximate location of start/finish.

I'm not fussed. In the car time lets me know if I'm faster/slower. That's what really matters to me.

I haven't really tried to fine tune to match natsoft.

Just remembered that most of the inconsistency is introduced from Dashware side of the equasion. (I'm out of practice cause about 10 month since I've had a track day :( boo hooo! )

I "think" DashWare doesn't try to interpolate it's polling. So for instance, when I was doing the drags the times were up to 0.2 out. So it reads stoped then moving 0.1 seconds later but starts timeing from full stopped. Then likewise I think it stops the clock when you pass over the mark. Thus not really all that accurate.

The devices that have 1hz signal actually assume the time based on the maths of where the finish line should have been between GPS pulses and then linearly split up the time.

  • 2 weeks later...

Just got a RaceChrono Pro but have not used it yet. The main reason for that choice was it has a remote mount GPS so that the screen can be located anywhere without worrying about GPS signals. Looks like the screen will be mounted on the speedo face where the colour changes at least will be readily seen via peripheral vision. Link http://roostindustries.com/lap_timers.php

I still use external GPS and free Racechrono phone software - just moved to the modern Android version which now exports all data to the csv files (not just laps as per nokia version). Therefore makes it a easy to sync data to video at takeoff.

  • 3 months later...

Just to update I bought a Qstarz, but the dickhead who I bought it off sent me the wrong mount :(

For some reason I thought it would automatically detect what track I was at but it appears I need to download maps.

Which maps do you guys use? Is it easy enough to record your own map? Still don't know how to use this thing.

What qstarz did you buy, just the gps thingy? if so, you then need to download racechrono software on your phone and it will automatically search tracks if/when your near them(thats the feature of the racechrono software, not the gps unit).

If yours is the qstarz all in one(gps and lap timer) then im not sure... hopeful;ly someone will know.

What i would like to know... if your doing a hill climb where theres a start and finish line, how would you setup your racechrono for that?

I know you can tell it where the start and finish lines are, but that requires you to know exactly where they are... on hillclimbs i dont know! and if you set it while there at the start line(a bit hard as you have to move along pretty quickly), how would you set the finish line as you pass it at who knows what speeds?

  • 3 weeks later...

Pez have you tried recording the tracks yourself? You had it at the SMSP South track day, how'd it go?

My only concern with the shared tracks is how old they are. Not sure if Eastern Creek is still the same layout

If you record them yourself do NOT try to do the set up from the unit. I've never gotten that to work.

Bring a laptop and record the data of the session as straight GPS data record (e.g. do not select circuit). Import in the QRacing set up the track and then load it back into the unit.

That's the only way I've been able to set up tracks.

To properly set up a track you have to drive across the start/finish slowly and you just can't do that unless you have the track to yourself.

  • 2 weeks later...

To properly set up a track you have to drive across the start/finish slowly and you just can't do that unless you have the track to yourself.

I've found some are missing and some downloaded tracks sta/fin don't match either the line or natsoft timing beam. So it's good to be able to record your own tracks.

As for the start/finish points, just take the gps recorder out of the car.

Walk backwards/forward a few times perpendicular to the track at your chosen point.

Later review your track session edit the sta/fin and move to where the extrapolated walk line crosses the track

Job done

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Plazmaman 76mm Pro Series, done. Data to back it up, I posted up somewhere here a few years back
    • So.....wire it up appropriately. You can't use the resister pack with those injectors anyway.
    • that’s the thing i’m on ID1050s and haltech not getting power due to the injector resistor 
    • ahh okay cheers, i was thinking of just going for the m073, think m079 would be way too overkill considering they are same size. 
    • My first car was a HG. I'm very familiar with them. A mild cam upgrade is a good idea. The 186 is a very flexible engine - meaning it has good torque from down low. You can give up a little torque down low for quite a lot more excitement in the mid range, and a bit more up top - but they are not exactly a rev monster. You need to upgrade valve springs at the minimum. For a bigger cam, you'd want to make sure it wasn't still running the original fibre cam gear. That would be unlikely, given that most of them shat themselves in the 70s and 80s, but still within the realms of possibility. Metal cam gear required. Carbies are a huge issue. The classic upgrade was always a Holley 350, which works, but is usually pretty bad for fuel consumption. The 186S had a 2 barrel Stromberg on it that was very similar to the one on the 253, and is a reasonable thing if you can find one, and find someone to help you get it set up (which is the same issue with setting up a 350 to work nice). The more classic upgrade was twin sidedraught CD type carbs, or triples of same, or triple Webers. The XU-1 triple Webers being the best example. You can still buy all this stuff new, I think, but it's a lot of coin to drop. And then the people able to set them up are getting fewer and further in between. There's still some, but it used to be everyone's** dad and uncle could do it. **Not everyone's! But a lot. All in all, I wouldn't get too carried away with the engine. Anything you do to it without a full rebuild for power and revs will only make it slightly faster. I am all in favour of a complete teardown rebuild, with nice rods and pistons, 10 or 10.5:1 compression, and a clean port job with at least a big enough cam to run 98 with that compression, if not bigger. And if I did that to a dirty old red motor, I'd want to inject it too, which I'd struggle to fight against the devil on my shoulder that would argue for ITBs and trumpets. But the bills would start to mount up, and it will still never make stupid power. OK, a few people still know how to build absolutely mental red motors, courtesy of the work that went into HQ racing and modern knowledge being applied. But even a 300HP red motor is no match for an RB20 with a TD06. So you have to decide what it's worth to you. I'd just put a set of 6>2>1 extractors, a 2.5" exhaust and an electronic ignition conversion/dizzy on it and just run the old girl like the fairly slow old girl that she really is.
×
×
  • Create New...