Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

It is an awesome exhaust and is definitely very quiet.

Seen it on few skylines, quiet as and awesome note once opened up.

I'm running Kakimoto full mega n1 which is quite similar.

Do you have both mufflers? makes a massive difference to noise levels.

Also, I think the regu came with two noise level models, one was 93db the other was 96 or 97... should check that too yo. Have a look on Kakimoto website, I saw it there (use google translator)

X

  • Replies 61
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

mine is really nice on the freeway and just cruising round,its quite as, when you open it up but it sounds awesome, i havnt really heard it much till my GF made a vid of me and DVS32R at the track on saturday... i was watchin the footage on sat nite and could here my car outside and thought F*ck yea that sounds wicked.... oh ive heard it on the dyno too. but nothing like peek revs on a racetrack..... : D

This is a pic of the inside of mine

This looks exactly like the internal of the N1+REV cannon photo i've posted though?? the restrictor is right there..

without the restrictor, you should be able to see the perforated section inside, with lots of tiny holes on the pipe

another way to test is, use the alloy rod with the hook end that comes in the skyline toolkit, if you shove the hook end in, you can hook the end of the restrictor

if there's no restrictor, then there's nothing to hook

On the other hand, V35 with regu 06 and metal cat sounds porn

this is my mate's old car. was quiet when it only had the regu 06, but became significantly loud after he changed the Y pipe and the hi flow metal cat

for some reason 350z doesn't sound quite as nice as the v35

Edited by chiksluvit

Just an update guys on my mission to investigate this silencer and yes it it true they are in there and yes I was able to remove it after alot of mucking around so for anyone that is interested you can take it out i used the mini air grinders because thats the only thing that would fit in there to grind the welds off then alot of fiddling around to get the silencer out of the cannon.

Ive taken some pics so you guys get an idea of what it is like.

post-50426-1286503077_thumb.jpg

post-50426-1286503124_thumb.jpg

post-50426-1286503152_thumb.jpg

I've got the Regu 06&R on my r33 GTST as well. It's the quietest exhaust I've ever heard. The size of the centre muffler is quite large, which may partly explain it.

Although, in saying that, I've now got a custom mid-section (the centre muffler was taking a beating from speed humps/ other gradual undulations of terra firma) and it's still not cop-bait loud. Does scream up top though :D

To boostn0199, have you noticed a difference inresponse/noise of any sort from your mod?

Cheers

In regards to difference well when I took my car checked with the regu06 fitted when it still had the restrictor it was definately causeing a restriction it did not like the extra timing I had in my tune from my previous exhuast and it was pinging I havent had it put on dyno with no restrictor but in regards to how it feels certainly feels alot more responsive and free revs better and seems to boost better.

In terms of noise yes it did get alot louder as suppose to before its not quite as loud as my old one which was is a stright pipe exhuast with a cannon on the back but its still much louder than it was with the restrictor so that middle muffler on it doesnt do shit lol thats why they stuck a reducer in it.

Now I see why racepace wanted 3500 for a custom exhuast that would flow and be quiet cause its not possible to find one for cheap as this kakimato has shown.

  • 2 weeks later...

I've got one insalled now, can confirm that its definitely got a restrictor in there

Its probably one of the quietest exhaust i've ever had, and the sound it produces is really nice when you give it a rev

problem is now the engine won't boost past 16psi, previously set to 18psi and goes there without a problem with any other exhaust i've used. my guess is the restrictor doing its job.

at least now the missus is happy

Edited by chiksluvit

i love the sound of mine on my gtr with its pops and bangs when changing and downshifting through the gears :P

also with the centre muffler that this system comes with that shrinks in more than the rear cannon.

if you want no restriction go with with a straight through titanium exhaust lol.

also with the centre muffler that this system comes with that shrinks in more than the rear cannon.

if you want no restriction go with with a straight through titanium exhaust lol.

so you're saying that the perforated tube in the centre muffler shrinks from 3 inch to <2.5 inch?

that can't be right, but i'm sure there's no reduction in there, judging from Kakimoto's website

sl07.gifsl08.gif

I think what you're talking about is that the 90mm piping reduces a little before it enters the rear cannon then yes, you're right, since the centre muffler entry/exit is 80mm- but this isn't even worth worrying about

We're talking about the restrictor inside the cannon, so i think you're on a different page

it's basically a silencer, but welded inside the cannon, as you can see in boostn0199's picture, and this is what is causing the restriction and not allowing the engine to boost over 16psi on my setting

it's this thing

is02.jpg

try shoving a 2.5 inch pipe in your rear cannon when its cold, i bet you it won't get through

as much as i'd like an exhaust without the restrictor, I have no choice but to keep the noise level down, since anything straight through (muffler or not) is too loud for my setting

i hope this makes sense

Edited by chiksluvit

The middle muffler is fine I checked that out and it doesnt shrink like the restrictor in the muffler and also without the cannon the exhuast is loud so the middle muffler aint doing much it was all in the welded in restrictor that supressed the noise.

are you sure it doesnt shrink because when i bought mine i could stick my hand through it but when i got to the centre muffler my hand wouldnt fit because it goes in more, then it widens again on the other side of that muffler.

are you sure it doesnt shrink because when i bought mine i could stick my hand through it but when i got to the centre muffler my hand wouldnt fit because it goes in more, then it widens again on the other side of that muffler.

You must've put your hand in from the 90mm side, which is the short side of the mid muffler piping section from the picture

i doubt you'd be able to reach the centre mufflere if you put your hand in from the long side

the pipe inside the mid muffler is 80mm, same diameter as the piping on the long side between the cat and mid muffler

n21307.gif

the restrictor inside the cannon is definitely smaller than 80mm, but i dont know the exact size since i can't measure it

Edited by chiksluvit

hmmmm, very odd because im 100% sure that my mid muffler is a smaller hole than what the cannon muffler is. when i looked at it i could see that the rear cannon does shrink in a bit but i didnt see it as a problem because of the mid muffler being smaller. maybe the r34gtr's are a bit different? im not sure. im not disputing the fact of what your saying, i agree with what you say and what you have posted but im just going by what i saw because i installed it myself.

on another note does yours bang and pop through gearshifting or is it just a gtr thing?

I installed my exhaust myself as well, and i'm pretty sure thats the case for R33 regu 06&R

did you do any measurements to make sure that the centre muffler is smaller than the restrictor in the rear cannon? or was that a visual estimate? the regu06 has a relatively small cannon already, so it can be a bit deceptive- the hole is actually smaller than you think-

do this test- try and see if you can shove like a degreaser spray can through the smaller section of the cannon when the car's cold, if not then you'll realise how small the restrictor actually is. its less than or equal to 2.5 inch. and no way you'd even be able to put your hand through that

the internal tube of the centre muffler is 80mm, and I'd be really worried if its the same size or smaller than the restrictor.

its definitely not the case for R33, don't know about r34 but I doubt its different

i think the "bang and pop" is more tune related

mine does it but that's because my car needs to be retuned after i changed the turbo, does it with any exhaust, just more apparent with this one because other noise frequency is already covered by the restrictor

my mate's R34 GTR doesn't do it as much because its been tuned

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Next on the to-do list was an oil and filter change. Nothing exciting to add here except the oil filter is in a really stupid place (facing the engine mount/subframe/steering rack). GReddy do a relocation kit which puts it towards the gearbox, I would have preferred towards the front but there's obviously a lot more stuff there. Something I'll have to look at for the next service perhaps. First time using Valvoline oil, although I can't see it being any different to most other brands Nice... The oil filter location... At least the subframe wont rust any time soon I picked up a genuine fuel filter, this is part of the fuel pump assembly inside the fuel tank. Access can be found underneath the rear seat, you'll see this triangular cover Remove the 3x plastic 10mm nuts and lift the cover up, pushing the rubber grommet through The yellow fuel line clips push out in opposite directions, remove these completely. The two moulded fuel lines can now pull upwards to disconnect, along with the wire electrical plug. There's 8x 8mm bolts that secure the black retaining ring. The fuel pump assembly is now ready to lift out. Be mindful of the fuel hose on the side, the hose clamp on mine was catching the hose preventing it from lifting up The fuel pump/filter has an upper and lower section held on by 4 pressure clips. These did take a little bit of force, it sounded like the plastic tabs were going to break but they didn't (don't worry!) The lower section helps mount the fuel pump, there's a circular rubber gasket/grommet/seal thing on the bottom where the sock is. Undo the hose clip on the short fuel hose on the side to disconnect it from the 3 way distribution pipe to be able to lift the upper half away. Don't forget to unplug the fuel pump too! There's a few rubber O rings that will need transferring to the new filter housing, I show these in the video at the bottom of this write up. Reassembly is the reverse Here's a photo of the new filter installed, you'll be able to see where the tabs are more clearing against the yellow OEM plastic Once the assembly is re-installed, I turned the engine over a few times to help build up fuel pressure. I did panic when the car stopped turning over but I could hear the fuel pump making a noise. It eventually started and has been fine since. Found my 'lucky' coin underneath the rear seat too The Youtube video can be seen here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uLJ65pmQt44&t=6s
    • It was picked up on the MOT/Inspection that the offside front wheel bearing had excessive play along with the ball joint. It made sense to do both sides so I sourced a pair of spare IS200 hubs to do the swap. Unfortunately I don't have any photos of the strip down but here's a quick run down. On the back of the hub is a large circular dust cover, using a flat head screw driver and a mallet I prised it off. Underneath will reveal a 32mm hub nut (impact gun recommended). With the hub nut removed the ABS ring can be removed (I ended up using a magnetic pick up tool to help). Next up is to remove the stub axle, this was a little trickier due to limited tools. I tried a 3 leg puller but the gap between the hub and stub axle wasn't enough for the legs to get in and under. Next option was a lump hammer and someone pulling the stub axle at the same time. After a few heavy hits it released. The lower bearing race had seized itself onto the stub axle, which was fine because I was replacing them anyway. With the upper bearing race removed and the grease cleaned off they looked like this The left one looked pristine inside but gave us the most trouble. The right one had some surface rust but came apart in a single hit, figure that out?! I got a local garage to press the new wheel bearings in, reassemble was the opposite and didn't take long at all. Removing the hub itself was simple. Starting with removing the brake caliper, 2x 14mm bolts for the caliper slider and 2x 19mm? for the carrier > hub bolts. I used a cable tie to secure the caliper to the upper arm so it was out of the way, there's a 10mm bolt securing the ABS sensor on. With the brake disc removed from the hub next are the three castle nuts for the upper and lower ball joints and track rod end. Two of these had their own R clip and one split pin. A few hits with the hammer and they're released (I left the castle nuts on by a couple of turns), the track rod ends gave me the most grief and I may have nipped the boots (oops). Fitting is the reversal and is very quick and easy to do. The lower ball joints are held onto the hub by 2x 17mm bolts. The castle nut did increase in socket size to 22mm from memory (this may vary from supplier) The two front tyres weren't in great condition, so I had those replaced with some budget tyres for the time being. I'll be replacing the wheels and tyres in the future, this was to get me on the road without the worry of the police hassling me.
    • Yep, the closest base tune available was for the GTT, I went with that and made all the logical changes I could find to convert it to Naturally Aspirated. It will rev fine in Neutral to redline but it will be cutting nearly 50% fuel the whole way.  If I let it tune the fuel map to start with that much less fuel it wont run right and has a hard time applying corrections.  These 50% cuts are with a fuel map already about half of what the GTT tune had.  I was having a whole lot of bogging when applying any throttle but seem to have fixed that for no load situations with very aggressive transient throttle settings. I made the corrections to my injectors with data I found for them online, FBCJC100 flowing 306cc.  I'll have to look to see if I can find the Cam section. I have the Bosch 4.9 from Haltech. My manifold pressure when watching it live is always in -5.9 psi/inHg
    • Hi My Tokico BM50 Brake master cylinder has a leak from the hole between the two outlets (M10x1) for brake pipes, I have attached a photo. Can anyone tell me what that hole is and what has failed to allow brake fluid to escape from it, I have looked on line and asked questions on UK forums but can not find the answer, if anyone can enlighten me I would be most grateful.
    • It will be a software setting. I don't believe many on here ever used AEM. And they're now a discontinued product,that's really hard to find any easy answers on. If it were Link or Haltech, someone would be able to just send you a ECU file though.
×
×
  • Create New...