Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey , very keen on purchasing a stillen exhaust for my V35 Sedan and was just wondering whether there was anyone who has any reason why I shouldnt get it ???

Any feedback welcome

http://www.stillen.com/product.asp?id=STIS...model=G35%204DR

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/339690-stillen-exhaust/
Share on other sites

I have one installed :D Very happy with the note, louder on start-up and more of a hint when warm(idle).

Good deep note when under power, and you can just hear it when cruising, you can tell that the noise is coming from the back not droning all the way down the car.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/339690-stillen-exhaust/#findComment-5486824
Share on other sites

  • 1 month later...

I don't think so , I know its hard not to get caught up in the noise of a new exhaust which can give the illusion of going faster but I honestly don't think the power has gone backward , having said that most people would recommend a tune after a new exhaust is put on , which will take me a while to get around to , am curious to see if had gotten a before and after dyno reading to see the difference

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/339690-stillen-exhaust/#findComment-5552712
Share on other sites

Why have you experienced something like this??

Possibly, but it was hard to tell being that there was extra weight in the car at the time....

If I had to put money on it, I would say it made very little to no increase to power levels, but the feeling from the passenger seat was that torque may have decreased a little.

Still goes fine and it might just be a perception thing, but the owner also felt this way

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/339690-stillen-exhaust/#findComment-5553418
Share on other sites

what did that cost you total in AU$ to have it paid for and deleivered?

It cost $1 400 to my door , took about literally an hour and a half to install (myself and couple of mates), and sounds amazing. So i'm happy with the buy.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/339690-stillen-exhaust/#findComment-5555896
Share on other sites

seems like an excessive amount of money to pay for a single system :/

you could get one made up for half the price

dunno about that. Having to custom make everything for my car, it's been nice just being able buy bolt on parts on the skyline - even if it's at a premium. Stillen seems to make decent qualty parts to boot so the price would be justified IMO.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/339690-stillen-exhaust/#findComment-5556966
Share on other sites

dunno about that. Having to custom make everything for my car, it's been nice just being able buy bolt on parts on the skyline - even if it's at a premium. Stillen seems to make decent qualty parts to boot so the price would be justified IMO.

just cos its custom made dosnt make it any harder. i had a duel system made for my LS400 and it only cost me $750. fair enough it wasn't stainless, but a single system in stainless you could have made for a shit load less than $1400 drive in drive out(not that i see any reason to need it to be stainless other then wank and street cred).

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/339690-stillen-exhaust/#findComment-5557038
Share on other sites

just cos its custom made dosnt make it any harder. i had a duel system made for my LS400 and it only cost me $750. fair enough it wasn't stainless, but a single system in stainless you could have made for a shit load less than $1400 drive in drive out(not that i see any reason to need it to be stainless other then wank and street cred).

Ok, I misread your post. I thought you meant make something up yourself, not get someone to make it.

Regardless, everyone has their own preference I guess. Not saying one is better than the other. Just saying it's nice to have someone else work out the problems sometimes and give you a bolt on solution. Even if it's at a premium. Not mentioned here is the potential resale value. Whether important or not, but the stillen may fetch more back % wise when it comes time to sell.

Anyways, just another perspective. Not looking to flame bait.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/339690-stillen-exhaust/#findComment-5557207
Share on other sites

just cos its custom made dosnt make it any harder. i had a duel system made for my LS400 and it only cost me $750. fair enough it wasn't stainless, but a single system in stainless you could have made for a shit load less than $1400 drive in drive out(not that i see any reason to need it to be stainless other then wank and street cred).

Mild steel is a third of the cost and yours would be press bent, a good lobster/mandrel stainless system would be tripple the cost in materials and twice the labour but worth it in the end as it would last forever. I cant even find a decent muffler for less than $300.

How is custom not harder? Its hand made, not cnc bent/robot welded. I need you to come and see the amount of work that goes into one of the 1000hp stainless systems I have made.

You took a stainless system off your LS and fit a mild one in its place? The stock one flows more than enough unless you went forced induction.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/339690-stillen-exhaust/#findComment-5557283
Share on other sites

seems like an excessive amount of money to pay for a single system :thumbsup:

you could get one made up for half the price

Its not really a single system, if you look at the pic - its a dual system, with a X over, that runs to a single muffler at the rear.

Yeah, sure he could have got a bodged mild steel system bent up for less cash, but it wouldn't come close to a Stillen product.

BTW the price for that is 975 US, the rest is in airfreight... I'd love to see someone do a custom V35 sedan Dual Stainless exhaust with twin resonators for under 1000 AUD. I would sure be interested.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/339690-stillen-exhaust/#findComment-5557294
Share on other sites

Mild steel is a third of the cost and yours would be press bent, a good lobster/mandrel stainless system would be tripple the cost in materials and twice the labour but worth it in the end as it would last forever. I cant even find a decent muffler for less than $300.

How is custom not harder? Its hand made, not cnc bent/robot welded. I need you to come and see the amount of work that goes into one of the 1000hp stainless systems I have made.

You took a stainless system off your LS and fit a mild one in its place? The stock one flows more than enough unless you went forced induction.

its not harder cos you drive to a shop and have it done.. im not saying to do it yourself.. and yes im talking mild steel, cos i dont get under my car and jerk off over a stainless system. they both do the exact same job

Edited by GeNOS
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/339690-stillen-exhaust/#findComment-5560033
Share on other sites

Its not really a single system, if you look at the pic - its a dual system, with a X over, that runs to a single muffler at the rear.

Yeah, sure he could have got a bodged mild steel system bent up for less cash, but it wouldn't come close to a Stillen product.

BTW the price for that is 975 US, the rest is in airfreight... I'd love to see someone do a custom V35 sedan Dual Stainless exhaust with twin resonators for under 1000 AUD. I would sure be interested.

ah ok didn't realise, i thought it was single from the front.

just cos its it mild steel, why do you assume its "bodged"? to assum that is very "fast and furious, full sic, gotta be stainless to be any good yo"

and how do you know it "wouldn't come close to a stillen product"? just cos its a brand name item dosnt mean its the bees knees.

regarding the freight, it was still paid there for its part of the total cost of the item.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/339690-stillen-exhaust/#findComment-5560038
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yea that’s why I said ima test them with multimeter and see the reads.
    • Only at idle. Isn’t a problem when rev it seems.
    • @Haggerty This seems silly to ask, but are you confident in your ability to tune the Haltech?  
    • Next on the to-do list was an oil and filter change. Nothing exciting to add here except the oil filter is in a really stupid place (facing the engine mount/subframe/steering rack). GReddy do a relocation kit which puts it towards the gearbox, I would have preferred towards the front but there's obviously a lot more stuff there. Something I'll have to look at for the next service perhaps. First time using Valvoline oil, although I can't see it being any different to most other brands Nice... The oil filter location... At least the subframe wont rust any time soon I picked up a genuine fuel filter, this is part of the fuel pump assembly inside the fuel tank. Access can be found underneath the rear seat, you'll see this triangular cover Remove the 3x plastic 10mm nuts and lift the cover up, pushing the rubber grommet through The yellow fuel line clips push out in opposite directions, remove these completely. The two moulded fuel lines can now pull upwards to disconnect, along with the wire electrical plug. There's 8x 8mm bolts that secure the black retaining ring. The fuel pump assembly is now ready to lift out. Be mindful of the fuel hose on the side, the hose clamp on mine was catching the hose preventing it from lifting up The fuel pump/filter has an upper and lower section held on by 4 pressure clips. These did take a little bit of force, it sounded like the plastic tabs were going to break but they didn't (don't worry!) The lower section helps mount the fuel pump, there's a circular rubber gasket/grommet/seal thing on the bottom where the sock is. Undo the hose clip on the short fuel hose on the side to disconnect it from the 3 way distribution pipe to be able to lift the upper half away. Don't forget to unplug the fuel pump too! There's a few rubber O rings that will need transferring to the new filter housing, I show these in the video at the bottom of this write up. Reassembly is the reverse Here's a photo of the new filter installed, you'll be able to see where the tabs are more clearing against the yellow OEM plastic Once the assembly is re-installed, I turned the engine over a few times to help build up fuel pressure. I did panic when the car stopped turning over but I could hear the fuel pump making a noise. It eventually started and has been fine since. Found my 'lucky' coin underneath the rear seat too The Youtube video can be seen here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uLJ65pmQt44&t=6s
    • It was picked up on the MOT/Inspection that the offside front wheel bearing had excessive play along with the ball joint. It made sense to do both sides so I sourced a pair of spare IS200 hubs to do the swap. Unfortunately I don't have any photos of the strip down but here's a quick run down. On the back of the hub is a large circular dust cover, using a flat head screw driver and a mallet I prised it off. Underneath will reveal a 32mm hub nut (impact gun recommended). With the hub nut removed the ABS ring can be removed (I ended up using a magnetic pick up tool to help). Next up is to remove the stub axle, this was a little trickier due to limited tools. I tried a 3 leg puller but the gap between the hub and stub axle wasn't enough for the legs to get in and under. Next option was a lump hammer and someone pulling the stub axle at the same time. After a few heavy hits it released. The lower bearing race had seized itself onto the stub axle, which was fine because I was replacing them anyway. With the upper bearing race removed and the grease cleaned off they looked like this The left one looked pristine inside but gave us the most trouble. The right one had some surface rust but came apart in a single hit, figure that out?! I got a local garage to press the new wheel bearings in, reassemble was the opposite and didn't take long at all. Removing the hub itself was simple. Starting with removing the brake caliper, 2x 14mm bolts for the caliper slider and 2x 19mm? for the carrier > hub bolts. I used a cable tie to secure the caliper to the upper arm so it was out of the way, there's a 10mm bolt securing the ABS sensor on. With the brake disc removed from the hub next are the three castle nuts for the upper and lower ball joints and track rod end. Two of these had their own R clip and one split pin. A few hits with the hammer and they're released (I left the castle nuts on by a couple of turns), the track rod ends gave me the most grief and I may have nipped the boots (oops). Fitting is the reversal and is very quick and easy to do. The lower ball joints are held onto the hub by 2x 17mm bolts. The castle nut did increase in socket size to 22mm from memory (this may vary from supplier) The two front tyres weren't in great condition, so I had those replaced with some budget tyres for the time being. I'll be replacing the wheels and tyres in the future, this was to get me on the road without the worry of the police hassling me.
×
×
  • Create New...