Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hi,

was wondering if I could see a few variations of tensioner / idler setups for the old 30det.

Also what modifications were required to the lower and upper covers (if any) were made (also 30 lower cover / 26 lower cover??)

My twin pulley (idler and tensioner) was done by nisspeed and is a bolt on application (i believe). I'm using a 30 lower cover and all the holes line up and i had to cut out the side and weld in a rolled section for the bulge of the idler (on the exhaust side).

I mated this up with a 26 top cover and the gap is hideous, the belt is close to the cam gear cover (again on the exhaust side) at the very bottom of the cover...

I think I will have to modify the cam gear cover (shorter) - then extend the lower cover (higher) to the right shape... and right clearances....

lets see some pics.

cheers

-matt

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/340367-2630-tensioner-pics/
Share on other sites

hi,

was wondering if I could see a few variations of tensioner / idler setups for the old 30det.

Also what modifications were required to the lower and upper covers (if any) were made (also 30 lower cover / 26 lower cover??)

My twin pulley (idler and tensioner) was done by nisspeed and is a bolt on application (i believe). I'm using a 30 lower cover and all the holes line up and i had to cut out the side and weld in a rolled section for the bulge of the idler (on the exhaust side).

I mated this up with a 26 top cover and the gap is hideous, the belt is close to the cam gear cover (again on the exhaust side) at the very bottom of the cover...

I think I will have to modify the cam gear cover (shorter) - then extend the lower cover (higher) to the right shape... and right clearances....

lets see some pics.

cheers

-matt

hey huddy, mine is the same...since we both have the OS giken copy tensioner plate. You will have to extend the lower cover and tig up the top cover lower passenger side. i haven't bothered as the top cover doesn't fit under the bonnet. its the price to pay to have the cam wheels line up perfectly and retain proper timing belt tension.

Nice - thanks matt! - I was wondering about yours! didn't realise it was a OS giken style setup - cool.

I've ordered a clear top cover - and I'm going to cut the bottom of that - and then extend the lower cover taller!

Getting the motor ready to be dropped in finally! :banana:

Have you had yours fully re-tuned with another fuel pump yet?

Nice - thanks matt! - I was wondering about yours! didn't realise it was a OS giken style setup - cool.

I've ordered a clear top cover - and I'm going to cut the bottom of that - and then extend the lower cover taller!

Getting the motor ready to be dropped in finally! :)

Have you had yours fully re-tuned with another fuel pump yet?

I have the additional fuel pump in, feels stronger already. The Fuel pressure is perfectly stable now. Will get it happening on the dyno soon.

  • 3 weeks later...
  • 4 weeks later...

$260, that was the first sample, but they are remaking the mold as there is very little room between the water pump pulley and the lower cover

yeah its the 3 layer carbon fibre not the 1 layer with fibre glass as u see how it looks like glass

Picture-0123.jpg

the other covers arent bolted down they're just sitting there but as u see they pretty much line up

Edited by Gerg_R31
  • 2 weeks later...

i can chuck up some photos idler/tensioner on my 25/30 if that will help. lol timing covers look shit when u twin cam the 30 block.

and yer i had to cut mine in 2 spots and probably need to take sum more out to gett better belt to cover clearance

  • 1 month later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi, SteveL Thank you very much for your reply, you seem to be the only person on the net who has come up with a definitive answer for which I am grateful. The "Leak" was more by way of wet bubbles when the pedal was depressed hard by a buddy while trying to gey a decent pedal when bleeding the system having fitted the rebuilt BM50 back in the car, which now makes perfect sense. A bit of a shame having just rebuilt my BM50, I did not touch the proportioning valve side of things, the BM50 was leaking from the primary piston seal and fluid was running down the the Brake booster hence the need to rebuild, I had never noticed any fluid leaking from that hole previously it only started when I refitted it to the car. The brake lines in the photo are "Kunifer" which is a Copper/Nickel alloy brake pipe, but are only the ones I use to bench bleed Master cylinders, they are perfectly legal to use on vehicles here in the UK, however the lines on the car are PVF coated steel. Thanks again for clearing this up for me, a purchase of a new BMC appears to be on the cards, I have been looking at various options in case my BM50 was not repairable and have looked at the HFM BM57 which I understand is manufactured in Australia.  
    • Well the install is officially done. Filled with fluid and bled it today, but didn't get a chance to take it on a test drive. I'll throw some final pics of the lines and whatnot but you can definitely install a DMAX rack in an R33 with pretty minor mods. I think the only other thing I had to do that isn't documented here is grind a bit of the larger banjo fitting to get it to clear since the banjos are grouped much tighter on the DMAX rack. Also the dust boots from a R33 do not fit either fyi, so if you end up doing this install for whatever reason you'll need to grab those too. One caveat with buying the S15 dust boots however is that the clamps are too small to fit on the R33 inner tie rod since they're much thicker so keep the old clamps around. The boots also twist a bit when adjusting toe but it's not a big deal. No issues or leaks so far, steering feels good and it looks like there's a bit more lock now than I had before. Getting an alignment on Saturday so I'll see how it feels then but seems like it'll be good to go       
    • I don't get in here much anymore but I can help you with this.   The hole is a vent (air relief) for the brake proportioning valve, which is built into the master cylinder.    The bad news is that if brake fluid is leaking from that hole then it's getting past the proportioning valve seals.   The really bad news is that no spare parts are available for the proportioning valve either from Nissan or after market.     It's a bit of a PITA getting the proportioning valve out of the master cylinder body anyway but, fortunately, leaks from that area are rare in my experience. BTW, if those are copper (as such) brake lines you should get rid of them.    Bundy (steel) tube is a far better choice (and legal  in Australia - if that's where you are).
×
×
  • Create New...