Jump to content
SAU Community

26/30 Tensioner Pics

huddy

By huddy,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

huddy Veteran

huddy

Posted
Posted

hi,

was wondering if I could see a few variations of tensioner / idler setups for the old 30det.

Also what modifications were required to the lower and upper covers (if any) were made (also 30 lower cover / 26 lower cover??)

My twin pulley (idler and tensioner) was done by nisspeed and is a bolt on application (i believe). I'm using a 30 lower cover and all the holes line up and i had to cut out the side and weld in a rolled section for the bulge of the idler (on the exhaust side).

I mated this up with a 26 top cover and the gap is hideous, the belt is close to the cam gear cover (again on the exhaust side) at the very bottom of the cover...

I think I will have to modify the cam gear cover (shorter) - then extend the lower cover (higher) to the right shape... and right clearances....

lets see some pics.

cheers

-matt

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/340367-2630-tensioner-pics/
Share on other sites
BoostdR Mentor

BoostdR

Posted
Posted
hi,

was wondering if I could see a few variations of tensioner / idler setups for the old 30det.

Also what modifications were required to the lower and upper covers (if any) were made (also 30 lower cover / 26 lower cover??)

My twin pulley (idler and tensioner) was done by nisspeed and is a bolt on application (i believe). I'm using a 30 lower cover and all the holes line up and i had to cut out the side and weld in a rolled section for the bulge of the idler (on the exhaust side).

I mated this up with a 26 top cover and the gap is hideous, the belt is close to the cam gear cover (again on the exhaust side) at the very bottom of the cover...

I think I will have to modify the cam gear cover (shorter) - then extend the lower cover (higher) to the right shape... and right clearances....

lets see some pics.

cheers

-matt

hey huddy, mine is the same...since we both have the OS giken copy tensioner plate. You will have to extend the lower cover and tig up the top cover lower passenger side. i haven't bothered as the top cover doesn't fit under the bonnet. its the price to pay to have the cam wheels line up perfectly and retain proper timing belt tension.

huddy Veteran

huddy

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Nice - thanks matt! - I was wondering about yours! didn't realise it was a OS giken style setup - cool.

I've ordered a clear top cover - and I'm going to cut the bottom of that - and then extend the lower cover taller!

Getting the motor ready to be dropped in finally! :banana:

Have you had yours fully re-tuned with another fuel pump yet?

BoostdR Mentor

BoostdR

Posted
Posted
Nice - thanks matt! - I was wondering about yours! didn't realise it was a OS giken style setup - cool.

I've ordered a clear top cover - and I'm going to cut the bottom of that - and then extend the lower cover taller!

Getting the motor ready to be dropped in finally! :)

Have you had yours fully re-tuned with another fuel pump yet?

I have the additional fuel pump in, feels stronger already. The Fuel pressure is perfectly stable now. Will get it happening on the dyno soon.

  • 3 weeks later...
  • 4 weeks later...
Gerg_R31 Mentor

Gerg_R31

Posted
Posted (edited)

$260, that was the first sample, but they are remaking the mold as there is very little room between the water pump pulley and the lower cover

yeah its the 3 layer carbon fibre not the 1 layer with fibre glass as u see how it looks like glass

Picture-0123.jpg

the other covers arent bolted down they're just sitting there but as u see they pretty much line up

Edited by Gerg_R31
  • 2 weeks later...
tm_r33 Experienced

tm_r33

Posted
Posted

i can chuck up some photos idler/tensioner on my 25/30 if that will help. lol timing covers look shit when u twin cam the 30 block.

and yer i had to cut mine in 2 spots and probably need to take sum more out to gett better belt to cover clearance

  • 1 month later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The Bogan
      NC MX5

      By The Bogan · Posted

      After using a protractor for an actually accurate assessment of what is required,  and by NOT using my uncalibrated eyeball I worked out I need a 25° silicone bend from the TB ro the MAF, but, my choice was either a 30° or a 23° (23° is a weird spec), so I grabbed the 23° one from Raceworks I also grabbed 1mtr of 3" straight from Just Jap, I needed 350mm, but they only had 300mm, or 1mtr lengths....meh Also ordered a 1/2" hose bulkhead fitting from fleabay, this has a smoothish mushroom looking head (they are designed for below the water line of boats) that will fit inside the bend, the hose bit and threaded bit looks to long, but nothing that a hacksaw cannot fix if required, the hose will then just get jamed on the threaded bit up to the retaining nut Fingers crossed and the unsightly amount of hose clamps will be reduced down to 4 once all the parts arrive 
    • joshuaho96
      R34 25GT Engine Light 21

      By joshuaho96 · Posted

      Oil change does not trigger code 21. Code 21 is for coilpacks primary side connection. You can try to clear the code with a battery disconnect, hold down the brake pedal to drain capacitors through the brake lights with the ignition on for 10-15 seconds before you reconnect the battery. I have seen R35 coil conversion permanently cause this code with no ill effects so it might be the resistance it wants to see isn't quite right on one or more coilpacks. Could be inside the ECU, could be the harness, could be a coil. You can test it all if you want or just ignore until the car actually starts misfiring.
    • joshuaho96
      R32 GTS (RB20DE) Injectors Replacement

      By joshuaho96 · Posted

      I forgot you have a Nistune ECU. Use Nistune to do all the tests I mentioned instead of faffing with 30+ year old electrical connectors. You can read MAF volts off that too, there are reference values in the service manual to tell you roughly what it should be in different conditions.
    • GTSBoy
      R32 GTS (RB20DE) Injectors Replacement

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      No. I think it might be the AFM. Hence the use of the terms "swaptronics", which implies the use of swapping out electronics for the purpose of diagnosis. It's about the only way to prove that a small/niggling/whatever problem with an AFM or a CAS or similar is actually caused by that AFM/CAS/whatever. A known good item swapped in that still gives the same problem is likely to be caused somewhere else. They're all the same. Spraying AFMs with cleaner is an each way bet between cleaning it and f**king it.
    • codygrimm27
      Can you mount the ATTESA pump in other locations?

      By codygrimm27 · Posted

      Oh wow! This might actually work amazingly. Do you know the ratio of the diff? I was told the only thing you need to make sure of is if the front & rear diff ratios are the same. Ours is a 4.083 Thanks!
×
×
  • Create New...