Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I'd like to import a Supra turbo. Is it possible to get one here for $15,000-$17,000?

Must be manual and I'd prefer a factory turbo car. Would prefer blue or black but not too fussed. Don't really care about mods; I'm not strictly after a stock car as long as it's in good condition and will be reliable. I'd like a 1998 VVTi but beggers can't be choosers...

What would the cheapest VVTi turbo be to import? I might be able to stretch the budget a little if a decent one can be got (again, must be manual).

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/340799-importing-a-supra-tt/
Share on other sites

  • Replies 92
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Just a quick idea on j-spec...

http://www.j-spec.com.au/featured/1993-Toy...a-RZ-15358.html

Or for a bit more of an idea in pricing.. I use j-spec because they give a preaty clear idea of total cost.. Here are some more.. LINK

Prestige Motorsport Supra 1999 SOLD

Do keep in mind if you look around you may find cheaper good quality VVTI models but not much under $26000 i would think..

Why insist on a VVTI model? The earlier non vvti ones are just as capable and have a little more support for them...just make sure you get one with the bigger 4 pot brakes...the small 2 pot ones are poo but the 4 pots are just as capable if not more capable than the brembos that came out on GTRs (excluding R35)...

*chiming in from me*

yeah man... as the new owner of a VVTi Soarer i can tell you now that while the VVTi engines are way more betterer than non vvt, i must say that there's not THAT much support for the vvti versions of these enignes..

the weld heat sink covers do look pretty fly though..

=)

oh back on topic - sorry mate, there's no way you'll get one with that budget.. keep in mind these cars are like the japanese equivalent of a porsche 911T. sure they don't cost as much but you get what i'm saying i hope.

just - think of it like... if you have a budget of 17 grand landed n complied.. that leaves you with about 700-750 thousand yen car cost at today's exchange rate.. this leaves you with slim options in the non vvt range, keep in mind that prices also fluctuate for these cars like mental..

with that budget i would SAY a non VVT RZ could be had.. buttttttt with that budget you can forget:

black

non smoker car

great condition car

hmm - well not FORGET but it does slim your chances down a lot..

short answer is - yeah you can have one in that budget - but i would dare say you wouldn't be able to find anything in that budget worth importing...

importing takes 3/4 months.. it's a long time to be "dreaming of your car"

also when you "get" your car - you have people that will have their jaws drop because they spent that much on an ex-demo commodore, and they will be looking to find faults in your imported car.

..and for that reason i suggest do it right the first time...

edit: to re-clarify what i mean about "looking to find faults".. i mean to say - your mates will be jealous. because they just spent 25K on an australian/aus delivered car with less features, less power, less specs, less "street cred' than your car.. and they will do things like - point out a ciggie burn, point out a scratch on the paint, point out anything they can find..

soooooooo do your best to NOT give them that inch..

in further news, you know my ex girlfriend had a go at me for importing a car the other day???

im not exaggerating. she literally told me:

"you should just buy local new cars and keep your money in australia's economy rather than sending your australian money overseas"

im not joking. people ACTUALLY ARE that retarded.

Edited by Mr Eps

Rowan's back.... lol.

And OP, I bought a Supra TT here in Perth for above your budget, but got to see it in the flesh, drive it etc. Its a non VVTI and the VVTIs they aren't worth the massive premium imho. Oh yeah, mines got 44,300kms (ticked over today). - Looks new, smells new, inside wheel arches look like new, underside looks new (bar the flattened jacking points) etc....

Buy local, KEEP MONEY IN AUS ECONOMY!

Edited by Ten Four

From what I've read, the VVTi Supras have much better low-end power and better response which is exactly what I want. Admittedly I haven't driven a VVTi, just a clean earlier car. I loved the instant power from stand still which you don't get in much else you can daily. Sounds like the VVTi would be the next step there. Also, all the factory figures are much better, especially handling, there must be some differences there too other than newer tyres.

And don't worry, I won't be getting an 'ex-demo' Holden. I drove an HSV 285 Clubsport hoping it'd provide the muscly, low end punch the Supra does but my god was I in for a suprise... Some, if you could call it that, power at 5-6k before you need to change. Dunno what Clarkson is on about. Poweeerr my arse.

Anyway, doesn't look like it's gonna happen over the ocean. The only one I'd get here on budget is a none-too-bad looking white thing I've found but I'm not gonna be able to gear up in time to grab it I don't think. There look to be some cars here in similar condition with the risks of buying one sight-unseen.

I'll keep looking, hopefully if I spend enough time cruising the auction sites 24/7 I'll discover some money I haven't blown going out and doing stuff...

...who buy cars from toyota japan/UK/china.. :)

i think you guys were missing the point there when i said about the money staying in the aussie economy..

what i was more saying was i fail to see how getting a new australian car (namely on a car loan) you're generally paying what, 13%-15% interest??

something like that.. generally speaking you'll pay aobut 4 grand in interest - that's not money on your car. that's not money in the economy. that's money going to the BANKS.

you're getting raped on interest and what's the thanks you get for it?

well, Wesptac's way of thanking you is by outsourcing all of their back office and administration duties to offshore.. so Westpac are very happy to charge you credit card, personal loan, car loan and home loan interest rates.. but offer no jobs or skills for your australian family.

(Y) way to go for keeping your money "in australia"

not to mention - when importing a car about half your budget goes to australia anyway - not to just banks - but to AUSTRALIAN SMALL BUSINESS!!! :D

Probably did miss the point(that's what i get for working 12 shifts), and it was pretty easy to razz u up wasn't it?

The banks are a**holes anyway, they talk about projected lower pofits so add more costs to ATM'S, branch cut backs, etc. Then year after year they out do the previous profits(generally)

Also even though its Toyota Australia, would not all said profits go to parent company?

Edited by Shazza24
Probably did miss the point(that's what i get for working 12 shifts), and it was pretty easy to razz u up wasn't it?

The banks are a**holes anyway, they talk about projected lower pofits so add more costs to ATM'S, branch cut backs, etc. Then year after year they out do the previous profits(generally)

Also even though its Toyota Australia, would not all said profits go to parent company?

yet, being based here means the payroll largely goes to people in australia, maybe a top exec from the parent company but everyone else, is australia, so the money still stays in the country, and thats the important part, that australians are employed.

Never really thought about the Soarer come to think of it. From what I've read, which is very little, the non-VVTis don't make much power down low which would defeat the purpose for me. Is it similar to a Supra to drive?

The main reason I want to upgrade from my S14 is that whilst it's a great car and great fun to drive with plenty of power from a small turbo and a very good band for an SR20, I still find I need to be doing 80Ks before I can really use the power. What I want is the way the Supra can deliver the thrill at like 2,000rpm instead of 5,000. I read the standard VVTi makes 380nm at 1,500rpm.

I'm open to suggestions for other cars so bring 'em on. Been considering an R32 GTR as well. Any massive don'ts on a $15,000 GTR? Don't want a V8; my old man has plenty I can use when I feel like it.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
    • Hi,  Just joined the forum so I could share my "fix" of this problem. Might be of use to someone. Had the same hunting at idle issue on my V36 with VQ35HR engine after swapping the engine because the original one got overheated.  While changing the engine I made the mistake of cleaning the throttle bodies and tried all the tricks i could find to do a throttle relearn with no luck. Gave in and took it to a shop and they couldn't sort it. Then took it to my local Nissan dealership and they couldn't get it to idle properly. They said I'd need to replace the throttle bodies and the ecu probably costing more than the car is worth. So I had the idea of replacing the carbon I cleaned out with a thin layer of super glue and it's back to normal idle now. Bit rough but saved the car from the wreckers 🤣
    • After my last update, I went ahead with cleaning and restoring the entire fuel system. This included removing the tank and cleaning it with the Beyond Balistics solution, power washing it multiple times, drying it thoroughly, rinsing with IPA, drying again with heat gun and compressed air. Also, cleaning out the lines, fuel rail, and replacing the fuel pump with an OEM-style one. During the cleaning process, I replaced several hoses - including the breather hose on the fuel tank, which turned out to be the cause of the earlier fuel leak. This is what the old fuel filter looked like: Fuel tank before cleaning: Dirty Fuel Tank.mp4   Fuel tank after cleaning (some staining remains): Clean Fuel Tank.mp4 Both the OEM 270cc and new DeatschWerks 550cc injectors were cleaned professionally by a shop. Before reassembling everything, I tested the fuel flow by running the pump output into a container at the fuel filter location - flow looked good. I then fitted the new fuel filter and reassembled the rest of the system. Fuel Flow Test.mp4 Test 1 - 550cc injectors Ran the new fuel pump with its supplied diagonal strainer (different from OEM’s flat strainer) and my 550cc injectors using the same resized-injector map I had successfully used before. At first, it idled roughly and stalled when I applied throttle. Checked the spark plugs and found that they were fouled with carbon (likely from the earlier overly rich running when the injectors were clogged). After cleaning the plugs, the car started fine. However, it would only idle for 30–60 seconds before stalling, and while driving it would feel like a “fuel cut” after a few seconds - though it wouldn’t fully stall. Test 2 – Strainer swap Suspecting the diagonal strainer might not be reaching the tank bottom, I swapped it for the original flat strainer and filled the tank with ~45L of fuel. The issue persisted exactly the same. Test 3 – OEM injectors To eliminate tuning variables, I reinstalled the OEM 270cc injectors and reverted to the original map. Cleaned the spark plugs again just in-case. The stalling and “fuel cut” still remained.   At this stage, I suspect an intermittent power or connection fault at the fuel pump hanger, caused during the cleaning process. This has led me to look into getting Frenchy’s fuel hanger and replacing the unit entirely. TL;DR: Cleaned and restored the fuel system (tank, lines, rail, pump). Tested 550cc injectors with the same resized-injector map as before, but the car stalls at idle and experiences what feels like “fuel cut” after a few seconds of driving. Swapped back to OEM injectors with original map to rule out tuning, but the issue persists. Now suspecting an intermittent power or connection fault at the fuel pump hanger, possibly cause by the cleaning process.  
×
×
  • Create New...