Jump to content
SAU Community

"dimple" Neodymium Magnetic Sump Plug Group Buy!


Recommended Posts

careful there PM, USPS is just the us postal service...not to be confused with UPS. i had 2 phone cases sent via usps priority ant it took 3 weeks.

  • Replies 200
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Ah ok fair enough. Cheers for that. Maybe they won't be here that quick :blink:

Also regarding the diff and gearbox plugs.

I spoke to Richard and he can make them to fit 3/4" BSPT (The size Elite Racing said he thought they were) however I still kind of need some confirmation. Really don't want to be ordering 50 plugs and then getting something that doesn't fit lol.

Edited by PM-R33
  • 2 weeks later...

If you get another buy going I'll be in especially if theres going to be diff and gearbox plugs as well.

hey phil is there any eta on when we shall be receiving these?

Unfortunately not. If you want the tracking number just PM me. The tracking number's last update was that it left the US on the 4th of November.

Just ordered the two plugs.. will have them both on Wednesday arvo. will post up picks soon after.

Sweet as man, keen to see if they are the size Elite Racing said.

just looked up and i didn't specify , im after diff and sump plugs for an SR20DET, is that ok?

Yeah that's fine. The sump plug will be the same as ours, the diff plug you will have to let me know the size though (might be the same as ours).

Edited by PM-R33

UPDATE!

THEY ARRIVED!

I will start getting them ready for postage tomorrow. I'm just a bit worried I f**ked up the postage cost and it is going to be more than I anticipated damnit. I will try to sweet talk the post office lady to let them be sent for the price I calculated for (Depends on the thickness of the little padded envelopes I am using. Worried it will be above the thickness).

To say these magnets are strong is quite the understatement! My god!

The craftsmanship on them is amazing. I also received some of the Dimple Black Hole magnets to try out. You place them on the outside of the oil filter for an added level of protection. These little suckers are insane! There is six of them and each is seperated by a bit of plastic in the packaging and it requires my full strength just to break them apart by bending the stack of 6! To actually pull them apart is next to impossible (Note to self, do not ever put two of them together without the plastic)

EDIT: Second note to self, do not get finger in between two magnets, I just nearly broke my damn finger lol

Edited by PM-R33

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hello, sorry for being late to join the discussion, but my clock just died on me.   Ive tried to look at Michaels digital clock repair.docx and it doesnt work maybe the file has expired.   Please let me know if you can re upload it or take some youtube videos to show us how to get the clock installed? thanks
    • I thought that might be the case, thats what I'll start saving for. Thanks for the info 
    • Ps i found the below forum and it seems to be the same scenario Im dealing with. Going to check my ECU coolant temp wire tomorrow    From NICOclub forum: s1 RB25det flooding at start up Thu Apr 11, 2013 7:23 am I am completely lost on this. Car ran perfectly fine when I parked it at the end of the year. I took the engine out and painted the engine bay, and put a fuel cell with an inline walbro 255 instead of the in tank unit I had last year. After reinstalling everything, the engine floods when the fuel pump primes. if i pull the fuel pump fuse it'll start, and as soon as I put the fuse back in it starts running ridiculously rich. I checked the tps voltage, and its fine. Cleaned the maf as it had some dust from sitting on a shelf all winter, fuel pressure is correct while running, but wont fire until there is less than 5psi in the lines. The fuel lines are run correctly. I have found a few threads with the same problem but no actual explanation of what fixed it, the threads just ended. Any help would be appreciated. Rb25det s1 walbro255 fuel pump nismo fpr holset hx35 turbo fmic 3" exhaust freddy intake manifold q45tb q45 maf   Re: s1 RB25det flooding at start up Fri Apr 12, 2013 5:07 am No, I didn't. I found the problem though. There was a break in one of the ecu coolant temp sensor wires. Once it was repaired it fired right up with no problems. I would have never thought a non working coolant temp sensor would have caused such an issue.
    • Hi sorry late reply I didnt get a chance to take any pics (my mechanics on the other side of the city) but the plugs were fouled from being too rich. I noticed the MAF wasn't genuine, so I replaced it with a genuine green label unit. I also swapped in a different ignitor, but the issue remains. I've narrowed it down a bit now: - If I unplug and reconnect the fuel lines and install fresh spark plugs, the car starts right up and runs perfectly. Took it around the block with no issues - As soon as I shut it off and try to restart, it won't start again - Fuel pressure while cranking is steady around 40 psi, injectors have good spray, return line is clear, and the FPR vacuum is working. It just seems like it's getting flooded after the first start I unplugged coolant sensors to see if its related to ECU flooding but that didnt make a difference. Im thinking its related to this because this issue only started happening after fixing coolant leaks and replacing the bottom part of the stock manifolds coolant pipe. My mechanic took off the inlet to get to get to do these repairs. My mechanics actually just an old mate who's retired now so ill be taking it to a different mechanic who i know has exp with RBs to see if they find anything. If you have any ideas please send em lll give it a try. Ive tried other things like swapping the injectors, fuel rail, different fuel pressure regs, different ignitor, spark plugs, comp test and MAF but the same issue persists.
    • My return flow is custom and puts the return behind the reo, instead of at the bottom. All my core is in the air flow, rather than losing some of it up behind the reo. I realise that the core really acts more as a spiky heatsink than as a constant rate heat exchanger, and that therefore size is important.... but mine fits everything I needed and wanted without having to cut anything, and that's worth something too. And there won't be a hot patch of core up behind the reo after every hit, releasing heat back into the intake air.
×
×
  • Create New...