Jump to content
SAU Community

Buying An M35 - Need Help!

salamandersushi
 Share

Recommended Posts

salamandersushi Rookie

salamandersushi

Posted
Posted

Hi Everyone, I've been a long-time lurker here just waiting for the moment I can finally afford an M35 - well, that time has come! I've been searching for a low-km ARX-Four and have finally found a couple situated over east (I'm based in Perth). They are both located at Nagoya Motors. I was wondering if I could get some feedback from other SAU members as to their experiences with this dealer and whether they've seen the cars at the dealership (A blue with stock number 956, and a silver with stock number 1088).

I am looking at getting an MTA inspection on the vehicles prior to purchase, but since you guys are the experts I figured this would be a better place to start than anywhere!

Also what should I be looking for when getting an M35 inspected prior to purchase?

Any help is more than greatly appreciated!  :)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/341351-buying-an-m35-need-help/
Share on other sites
Bis-e Bee Mentor

Bis-e Bee

Posted
Posted
Hi Everyone, I've been a long-time lurker here just waiting for the moment I can finally afford an M35 - well, that time has come! I've been searching for a low-km ARX-Four and have finally found a couple situated over east (I'm based in Perth). They are both located at Nagoya Motors. I was wondering if I could get some feedback from other SAU members as to their experiences with this dealer and whether they've seen the cars at the dealership (A blue with stock number 956, and a silver with stock number 1088).

I am looking at getting an MTA inspection on the vehicles prior to purchase, but since you guys are the experts I figured this would be a better place to start than anywhere!

Also what should I be looking for when getting an M35 inspected prior to purchase?

Any help is more than greatly appreciated!  :(

Ensure the turbo its not making any weird noises. These turbo's make a loud induction noise, but anything outside that is a concern. They were replaced in Japan at 100,000 km service. The ceramic doesn't hold out for long. That said mine made it to about 103,000 before it was written off due to someone else's actions, but the turbo was worked hard for 50,000km's and I had no issues.

I will be back in the market in a couple of months when I can come to bare trying to trust others on the road lol

Daleo Grand Master

Daleo

Posted
Posted

Bought my M35 through Nagoya, Alex & Dmitri are good to deal with, they even threw in a towbar when we were negotiating. No issues with the car so far; almost 2 yrs later.

Northshore Prestige are good too, a lot of the Sydney guys (and several interstate buyers) have bought through them; very good reputation.

Old Gregg Enthusiast

Old Gregg

Posted
Posted

Ask to see a copy of the original Auction sheet for the vehicle. If they won't show then it has probably had odometer reset to show lower Km's after auction by an agent in Japan (apparently there is at least one yard in Sydney organising this). If you have any contacts in the import industry they may be able to get online access to auction info about the vehicle - not sure on the time frame of how long that info is available. Of course this won't help if it was reset before auction.

Sometimes the seller doesn't even know all the options on the vehicle - get the vin put through FAST to find out whats in it.

On a test drive try braking strongly on a downhill at speed - will probably shudder from out of round, soft front rotors - expect to have to replace these I think but might make a good barganing point if this happens with a sales person in the car! Look shocked!

Have a look at the body at different times of day as different light conditions show up different paint / body / trim defects.

(If you want to go overboard wash it for them you get to see all the cosmetic defects washing a car :( )

Get a drive at highway speed or greater and notice any vibrations or shudders.

Turbo sort of whistles or whines normally - think it sort of tinkles or grinds if probs. (Experienced owners - could you give the accelerated a blip - turn it straight off and expect to hear turbo spin on with these bearing turbos - or is that not what I hear when I did this?)

Wear on drivers seat will give best idea of Kms - compare to Aust car with leather in another yard and compare wear to kms - assume Aust car will be real kms?

Leather colour on seats wears off surface like it does on shoes could look for these sort of grey areas or touch up.

Good luck you will love an ARX.

salamandersushi Rookie

salamandersushi

Posted
  • Author
Posted
So these cars are in Sydney- and your in Perth- how much is the car carrier?

Try Trading post aswell- I know a good dealer who only advertisers in there- gets clean cars-

Nagoya seems like the way to go as they offer free transport of the car to Perth - I had found one M35 for sale here in Perth, but it had 100k on the clock and approximately the same price as what Nagoya is offering for theirs (plus it looked neglected).

andy65b Veteran

andy65b

Posted
Posted
Hi Everyone, I've been a long-time lurker here just waiting for the moment I can finally afford an M35 - well, that time has come! I've been searching for a low-km ARX-Four and have finally found a couple situated over east (I'm based in Perth). They are both located at Nagoya Motors. I was wondering if I could get some feedback from other SAU members as to their experiences with this dealer and whether they've seen the cars at the dealership (A blue with stock number 956, and a silver with stock number 1088).

I am looking at getting an MTA inspection on the vehicles prior to purchase, but since you guys are the experts I figured this would be a better place to start than anywhere!

Also what should I be looking for when getting an M35 inspected prior to purchase?

Any help is more than greatly appreciated! :(

I would have a good look at the cars at Northshore Prestige. They may be slightly more expensive than some other dealers but their attention to detail and quality is what makes the difference.

have a look at this nice ARX.

Most other dealers when they install the mandatory anchor points to the back of the Stagea, drill right through the body work below and put a bolt right through and seal it with silastic. It is just a matter of time before it starts to leak water. Also when they do this they cut through the plastic trim panel on the top of the roof at the boot and inevitably the panel cracks from the pressure of the anchor point. Northshore do a better job by installing these same anchor points slightly further forward of the plastic panel so they do not damage the car nor create any potential leaks or rust points.

I have seen so many broken trim panels from other dealers it is not funny.

Good luck with your search.

Cheers

Andy

whitestag Community Regular

whitestag

Posted
Posted

also somthing to keep in mind, im sure northshore can do shipping aswell,, when I got mine, they offered free shipping to another capital OR 3 year warranty 12 month service and a few other things,, as im in syd I got myself warranty :)

Its best to talk to them, they great people to deal with. no experiance with nagoya thoe

iamhe77 Grand Master

iamhe77

Posted
Posted
also somthing to keep in mind, im sure northshore can do shipping aswell,, when I got mine, they offered free shipping to another capital OR 3 year warranty 12 month service and a few other things,, as im in syd I got myself warranty :no:

Its best to talk to them, they great people to deal with. no experiance with nagoya thoe

^ Yep.

Northshore will definitely ship interstate, perhaps ask them how much shipping will be and take the warranty as well as they have no problem honouring warranty claims for interstate buyers.

Their shipping prices are quite reasonable too!

Also, they have the most experience with Stagea's in Australia having been selling them for almost 4 years now.

Daleo Grand Master

Daleo

Posted
Posted (edited)
Bought my M35 through Nagoya, Alex & Dmitri are good to deal with, they even threw in a towbar when we were negotiating. No issues with the car so far; almost 2 yrs later.
Has anyone here had experience with Nagoya? So far they seem to be fairly communicative. :ermm:

PM me if you like.

Edited by Daleo
Lucid-_-Stag Rookie

Lucid-_-Stag

Posted
Posted (edited)

Really? Ive been talking to them well trying to, not getting too much info off them, a few 10 word emails... odd, not bad mouthing just different communications at moment. One thing though Check there warranty, had a quick read of it and seems not too fair if your modding the car.

Having good talks with GT High Performance at moment though, gotta love email replys at 830PM Lol

Edited by Lucid-_-Stag

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • RP1421
      S15 Spec R

      By RP1421 · Posted

      As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • joshuaho96
      R32 GTS (RB20DE) Injectors Replacement

      By joshuaho96 · Posted

      I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
    • perry_r33
      R34 GTR Vspec Garage Sale - All must go!

      By perry_r33 · Posted

      Pm sent 
    • Robot
      Skyline v36 350GT sedan hunting on idle

      By Robot · Posted

      Hi,  Just joined the forum so I could share my "fix" of this problem. Might be of use to someone. Had the same hunting at idle issue on my V36 with VQ35HR engine after swapping the engine because the original one got overheated.  While changing the engine I made the mistake of cleaning the throttle bodies and tried all the tricks i could find to do a throttle relearn with no luck. Gave in and took it to a shop and they couldn't sort it. Then took it to my local Nissan dealership and they couldn't get it to idle properly. They said I'd need to replace the throttle bodies and the ecu probably costing more than the car is worth. So I had the idea of replacing the carbon I cleaned out with a thin layer of super glue and it's back to normal idle now. Bit rough but saved the car from the wreckers 🤣
    • GabsReDeal
      R32 GTS (RB20DE) Injectors Replacement

      By GabsReDeal · Posted

      After my last update, I went ahead with cleaning and restoring the entire fuel system. This included removing the tank and cleaning it with the Beyond Balistics solution, power washing it multiple times, drying it thoroughly, rinsing with IPA, drying again with heat gun and compressed air. Also, cleaning out the lines, fuel rail, and replacing the fuel pump with an OEM-style one. During the cleaning process, I replaced several hoses - including the breather hose on the fuel tank, which turned out to be the cause of the earlier fuel leak. This is what the old fuel filter looked like: Fuel tank before cleaning: Dirty Fuel Tank.mp4   Fuel tank after cleaning (some staining remains): Clean Fuel Tank.mp4 Both the OEM 270cc and new DeatschWerks 550cc injectors were cleaned professionally by a shop. Before reassembling everything, I tested the fuel flow by running the pump output into a container at the fuel filter location - flow looked good. I then fitted the new fuel filter and reassembled the rest of the system. Fuel Flow Test.mp4 Test 1 - 550cc injectors Ran the new fuel pump with its supplied diagonal strainer (different from OEM’s flat strainer) and my 550cc injectors using the same resized-injector map I had successfully used before. At first, it idled roughly and stalled when I applied throttle. Checked the spark plugs and found that they were fouled with carbon (likely from the earlier overly rich running when the injectors were clogged). After cleaning the plugs, the car started fine. However, it would only idle for 30–60 seconds before stalling, and while driving it would feel like a “fuel cut” after a few seconds - though it wouldn’t fully stall. Test 2 – Strainer swap Suspecting the diagonal strainer might not be reaching the tank bottom, I swapped it for the original flat strainer and filled the tank with ~45L of fuel. The issue persisted exactly the same. Test 3 – OEM injectors To eliminate tuning variables, I reinstalled the OEM 270cc injectors and reverted to the original map. Cleaned the spark plugs again just in-case. The stalling and “fuel cut” still remained.   At this stage, I suspect an intermittent power or connection fault at the fuel pump hanger, caused during the cleaning process. This has led me to look into getting Frenchy’s fuel hanger and replacing the unit entirely. TL;DR: Cleaned and restored the fuel system (tank, lines, rail, pump). Tested 550cc injectors with the same resized-injector map as before, but the car stalls at idle and experiences what feels like “fuel cut” after a few seconds of driving. Swapped back to OEM injectors with original map to rule out tuning, but the issue persists. Now suspecting an intermittent power or connection fault at the fuel pump hanger, possibly cause by the cleaning process.  
×
×
  • Create New...