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If it's coils, I got a set you can have cheap. Though I doubt it would be them.

If it's spark plugs, I got 6 NGK BCPR6ES (0.8mm copper standard replacement) you can have for $20 (normaly $30.....HUUUUUUUGE SAVINGS BRAH)

If it's something the workshop muffed up, well good luck and hope it's sorted easy :P but yes, if either of the above are at fault, hit me up :D

hopefully it ain't a coil pack that has coincidently gone faulty.

Hopefully not, cos if I'll be schitting myself, I found out it's running the blue spitfires.

Also supposedly running the iridium sparkies, worth $22 each or something stupid - and a 0.75mm gap rather than 8mm... Going by what I was told any way.

I'm sure all this is helping explain the 220rwkw.

BTW I looked at some of the papers I got, it's running 6psi and 11psi, not 7 and 12. But either way :D

Edited by J'son

hmm yeah unlikely coils then...

When I had my car at ESP, got told it's running same sort of sparkies too...though whatever was in it, they reckon is usually somewhere around $40/plug....so naturally they didn't replace them lol

Been going good for 30,000kms now, no issues :D

Ah yep cool.

I have some stock parts. Stock clutch and flywheel, intercooler, 4 of the 6 coils (he didn't find the other 2 some how, but if does will get them to me), turbo to cat parts of exhaust, a bunch of random nuts and bolts, and a couple of other bits of piping.

Tires are a bit of a nightmare though lol, I guess so very much worth it, but OUCH on the wallet.

And why must they make the rear seats so hard to remove to do work, seriously *sighs* I gave up last night, but will look again later (wanted to start sorting sterio related stuff).

Currently the car is back with Premier Automotive. In theory I'll get it back today running properly again.

just yank the f**kers real hard (the seat base) and and will pop out

and and eh?

I got your point.

Got the left side out, but not the right(btw this was after undoing the actual bolts on the front :P

Need to put a bolt in for bottom right hand part of the back rest, it appears to be missing..

I'll give it another shot tonight or monday.

Edited by J'son

Car is supposedly fine now (I'll know when drive home)

They found a hairline crack on one the sparkies. They said when removed em they were a bit tight, and they musta accidently cracked one.

He replaced it with the same sparkie, match the gaps and it runs perfect again.

He was hugely apologetic, he even dropped the car off to ME at my work on the other side of Mitchell.

I'd still recommend their shop for work - Performance Automotive Repairs - Mitchell.

Yeh thats it, drive it enough - I'll get used to it.. But only way getting it smoother is with a bit more slip..

I'm trying to get the balance right of slip, vs grip and not accidently burning out the tires.

Loveing driving this car though. It's awesome

Just don't worry about taking off in any kind of "quick" manner lol...don't rev it up above 1000rpm if you can get the clutch control spot on...that will allow for some slip without burning the poor thing to death from higher rpm

Just don't worry about taking off in any kind of "quick" manner lol...don't rev it up above 1000rpm if you can get the clutch control spot on...that will allow for some slip without burning the poor thing to death from higher rpm

Sounds good to me.

OK latest issue, I need to somehow get a new LED cluster for the stock rear spoiler *sighs* it aint working at all. Any one got one, ideas or suggestions?

Oh and new tires, wheel alignment and balance tomorrow morning, booya.

Edited by J'son
Sounds good to me.

OK latest issue, I need to somehow get a new LED cluster for the stock rear spoiler *sighs* it aint working at all. Any one got one, ideas or suggestions?

Oh and new tires, wheel alignment and balance tomorrow morning, booya.

mine wasnt working, pulled it appart and checked for dry joints. if you are handy with a soldering iron its potentially a cheap fix.

mine wasnt working, pulled it appart and checked for dry joints. if you are handy with a soldering iron its potentially a cheap fix.

Isn't the thing completely sealed tight?

Might be possible to fix it as such.. but not sure how to get it apart without accidently damaging it.

LED's don't die... not a whole bunch of them at once anyway...

So the problem will be either no Ground, no Switched +12V or as TiTan said a dry solder joint.

make sure you have +12v going to them with the brakes on, and make sure they are getting a connection from the Ground wire to the chassis somewhere.

If you have both of these things, I'm sure they will be fixable :)

Cheers

Isn't the thing completely sealed tight?

Might be possible to fix it as such.. but not sure how to get it apart without accidently damaging it.

its sealed, but with some patience and a sharp knife you can work your way round and pry it open.

Are they in series or parallel? I seem to remember them being in series, so if one has died, none of them will work. If this is the case, just gotta find out which one.

They supposedly run in series of 4 leds. So usually if anything goes out, it'll be a small section at a time only.

There is power to the cables, as we tested the wiring, and I used a different tail light temporarily - but it doesn't fit properly.

I'm a little worried to pull it all apart, but I'll definitely take another look, and see if is perhaps dry solder etc.. I'll see what my father can do, he's a pro with solder.. I'm not so good with that kinda fine detail.

Also, after that rain this morn i have a little moisture in my back right indicator, and there was some dampness in my boot, but not sure if that was cos some water ran in when I opened the boot or cos there is an actual leak.

New tires are awesome, car looks better with the nice mags back on. Alignment is fixed (toe was right out front and back). And I'll keep gently practicing getting this clutch right. I've been careful not to over rev it, but shudders from under aint that great either.

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