Jump to content
SAU Community

Passing Rego Inspection

J'son

By J'son,
in Australian Capital Territory

 Share

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 129
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Popular Posts

AeroZR
AeroZR

FMIC will pass fine - I had holes cut in mine for piping and it passed. Just make sure the piping is tidy and fits the hole snugly.

Posted Images

J'son Proficient

J'son

Posted
  • Author
Posted (edited)
that button/switch is not required and the car will work fine without it.

yours on the other hand needs to work and be wired into your ecu troy :D

Why is that? How come I don't need it by he does?

What does it actually do?

My skyline is running a mines ECU, and I've only minimal knowledge about them. I have a fair idea of the main bits of work that has been done to the car.

Edited by J'son
TiTAN Grand Master

TiTAN

Posted
Posted

you dont need it because your ecu doesnt have the extra features to make use of it like his aftermarket one does.

Troy its to enable the flat shift and launch control functions. the wiring needs to be changed to get it wired up to the ecu though as i am not sure where it goes factory but the car runs fine without it.

J'son Proficient

J'son

Posted
  • Author
Posted (edited)

Looking for if anybody has a set of the original (large rectangular) rear speaker covers from the parcel shelf for an r33? Mines a series 1.5, but I doubt the speaker covers changed between S1 and S2?

Edited by J'son
  • 5 years later...
AeroZR Apprentice

AeroZR

Posted
Posted

Reviving. I've got a mate going to check out an r33 gtst. Has anyone passed Dickson recently with a hole cut in the engine bay for fmic piping?

Chris

FMIC will pass fine - I had holes cut in mine for piping and it passed. Just make sure the piping is tidy and fits the hole snugly.

  • Like 1

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • GTSBoy
      M35 Aftermarket Fuel Pump

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      My apologies. I forgot we were talking about weird beard M series stuff. Had been talking elsewhere with someone about an R33 with similar subject and got confused.
    • The Bogan
      NC MX5

      By The Bogan · Posted

      Nope, I don't like the look of ND RF, or any ND really, I don't like their faces or arses, why, because of their "modern" lines, the NC, whilst "modernish" has a more rounded shape that I like Well, that's how my overly judgemental eyes see it anyway  
    • Dose Pipe Sutututu
      M35 Aftermarket Fuel Pump

      By Dose Pipe Sutututu · Posted

      Should be more than fine, especially the overall fuel pressure would never exceed 3.5bar (assuming that thing never gets more than 0.5bar of boost in stock form). According to the chart, it's 11amps.
    • iain_ST44GA
      M35 Aftermarket Fuel Pump

      By iain_ST44GA · Posted

      I definitely know the first rule here, look first, ask second. I've seen many people get roasted 😂 I found a few diagrams for the RB, but I'm yet to come across one for the VQ. From what I have read, the pump gets the +12v along with the FPCM, and it's the negative wire that gets passed through the resistor to regulate the voltage. So I assume I can just ground the negative wire at the pump to eliminate the FPCM control. But I really wanted to see the VQ circuit diagram first to make sure I understood it correctly. Once the new pump is in I'll do some testing to see how it behaves, and in the meantime, I'll keep looking for a wiring diagram. Thanks for your help mate, your time is greatly appreciated.    
    • GTSBoy
      Jacks that fit under GTR lips that can reach the subframe?

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Maybe? I have the Supercheap ToolPro low thingo. It has a somewhat smaller diameter lifting "bowl" than you would expect on a workshop grade trolley jack, and a split rubber pad to suit that diameter. It clears the "N1" style skirts I have. Probably wouldn't if the jack's bowl and a suitably larger rubber block were in use. Having said that though.....you only need the rubber block to exist on the inner side of the pinchweld, so could carve away any rubber that fouled the skirt, leaving some there for "insurance" </simples>
×
×
  • Create New...