Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi SAUers.....

I'm curious to peoples opinions on peak power vs torque when tuning and what you prefer. I've had my car (R34GTT) road tuned (by Toshi) and finally had the chance to put it up on the dyno. Relatively low peak power figure of 170rwkw on 11psi but with 457nm of torque and AFR sitting on an even 12:1 (according to this particular dyno, @ air temp of 22deg).

Although it's a low rwkw reading, the amount of torque I have is quite breathtaking, and accelaration and on boost pull is more than enough to start your heart. I'd have to ask Toshi about the map he created, i.e timing etc. I'm not at all dissapointed by the peak power figure because there is more than enough torque to put me in the seat.

So why is every1 so hung up on how much KW they pull at the wheels for everyday street driving?

Opinions?

  • Replies 250
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

Hi SAUers.....

I'm curious to peoples opinions on peak power vs torque when tuning and what you prefer. I've had my car (R34GTT) road tuned (by Toshi) and finally had the chance to put it up on the dyno. Relatively low peak power figure of 170rwkw on 11psi but with 457nm of torque and AFR sitting on an even 12:1 (according to this particular dyno, @ air temp of 22deg).

Although it's a low rwkw reading, the amount of torque I have is quite breathtaking, and accelaration and on boost pull is more than enough to start your heart. I'd have to ask Toshi about the map he created, i.e timing etc. I'm not at all dissapointed by the peak power figure because there is more than enough torque to put me in the seat.

So why is every1 so hung up on how much KW they pull at the wheels for everyday street driving?

Opinions?

IMO peak power means jack shit, its average power + torque that makes a car quick not just peak rwkw.

The way i see it, power is a by-product of torque so i look at power anyways BUT at rpm points. I don't just refer to peak power - it's area under the curve that wins, not just peak power.

My 3rd gear pushes my innards back and makes my body/fot instinctively want to lift off the throttle lol, it's.. interesting. Second gear i'm too tensed up and it's over quite quick especially now that i'm getting traction with better tires.

I would luurrvvveee to feel the pull from a 350+awkw gt-r though!

End of the day, my main driving is mountain runs so power delivery behaviour and average power is what i like. My car's a weekender if that makes any difference.

Area under the curve is where it's at.

Agreed. I can understand wanting a track car to be working within it's peak rev range and at peak power, but on a street car, how often do u get to 6.5K rpm and stay there to make the most of that peak power.

That's why i have a better opinion of road tune vs dyno tune. On the road, you are the one driving so you can tell the difference in every aspect of the tune

Big numbers aren't everything. Sure it's nice to have 400kw atw + as a growing amount of members have on here

Everyone likes cars in different ways, set it up how YOU like it and don't worry about what others think :P

I would luurrvvveee to feel the pull from a 350+awkw gt-r though!

It's pretty special.

This may piss off sone gtst owners, but; forget what you think a fast skyline is, if you think a gtst is quick a quick gtr will really open your eyes :P

It's pretty special.

This may piss off sone gtst owners, but; forget what you think a fast skyline is, if you think a gtst is quick a quick gtr will really open your eyes :P

Only off the line really. And even then a rwd is still fast with slicks. The world record holders are all rwd.

Edited by Jap_Muscle

I don't really think all people on here are hung up on kw figures at all. Maybe a lot of "new" people into the whole car scene or people that don't really know much about cars, but for the most of us, I definetely don't think it is true.

I think we all realise that power is a direction relation with rpm and torque. So while we talk about peak kw figures, we always ask (or allready know) the rest of the cars setup so can quite easily put it all together in our heads and determine whether a car is "fast" or not for a given situation.

For example, most of us on here would know a T04Z with a 1.06 housing on a RB20 pushing 350rwkw would be "slower" overall on the street than a GT3540 with a .86 housing on a RB30/26 pushing 320rwkw. Just because one car makes more peak power doesn't mean it would be faster over all and hence me mentioing the rest of the cars setup in the previous paragraph.

Hence why we have a dyno graph section, so we can compare the power of a car over the entire RPM range. I have done many comparisons with my dyno graphs and others to see what the cars are like. While some may have 10 or so more peak kw, I will have 30-40kw more through the rev range (for example).

So while all of this sounds quite easy to understand for a lot of us, it may be a bit to much to explain to every single person you talk to. Hence it is easy just to qoute a peak kw figure so people get a rough idea of what is going on in the car instead of getting into a 10 minute conversation talking about power/weight ratios, gearing in the gearbox and diff, torque at a given rpm etc just to explain how your car goes.

Also, hate to burst your bubble, but your car isn't pushing out a true 457Nm of torque. I think you need to research how dynos work and how they measure torque at the wheels.

Edited by PM-R33

Ahh but off the line is half the fun =).

Yep i know a quick gts-t is only equal to a quick-ish gt-r hence wanting to try out a quick gt-r haha.

Alot harder and more money involved to get a rwd fast off the line and then you run a custom drag setup which sucks for any other application.

Someone mentioned peak power for track duties...you'd still want good power curve even for track. Peak power is only one small point on your power curve.

And yeah that torque figure is a bit sus...torque like that should give a much higher peak power reading unless your torque curve suddenly dies in the arse near the top end.

Pm-r33, is your dyno posted up ? I'd love to have a squiz at it (if it is posted up i.e. understand some poeple don't like sharing too much).

Edited by Touge Kyousou

Yeah I have an old one posted somewhere (not with the Vipec or the nitrous, that is still to come :P ), I'll try to find the old one though, wait up.

EDIT: Here's the thread:

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Dy...ns-t270208.html

Don't bother reading the whole thread, it gets into a bit of a shit fight lol.

Edited by PM-R33

I think at the end of the day if your happy with how the car drives, then thats all that really matters.

Definately tune for the most average power, you cant create more power from torque, but you can create more torque from power., ie stay in the previous gear longer where you would be producing more torque to the wheels.

I don't really think all people on here are hung up on kw figures at all. Maybe a lot of "new" people into the whole car scene or people that don't really know much about cars, but for the most of us, I definetely don't think it is true.

I think we all realise that power is a direction relation with rpm and torque. So while we talk about peak kw figures, we always ask (or allready know) the rest of the cars setup so can quite easily put it all together in our heads and determine whether a car is "fast" or not for a given situation.

For example, most of us on here would know a T04Z with a 1.06 housing on a RB20 pushing 350rwkw would be "slower" overall on the street than a GT3540 with a .86 housing on a RB30/26 pushing 320rwkw. Just because one car makes more peak power doesn't mean it would be faster over all and hence me mentioing the rest of the cars setup in the previous paragraph.

Hence why we have a dyno graph section, so we can compare the power of a car over the entire RPM range. I have done many comparisons with my dyno graphs and others to see what the cars are like. While some may have 10 or so more peak kw, I will have 30-40kw more through the rev range (for example).

So while all of this sounds quite easy to understand for a lot of us, it may be a bit to much to explain to every single person you talk to. Hence it is easy just to qoute a peak kw figure so people get a rough idea of what is going on in the car instead of getting into a 10 minute conversation talking about power/weight ratios, gearing in the gearbox and diff, torque at a given rpm etc just to explain how your car goes.

Also, hate to burst your bubble, but your car isn't pushing out a true 457Nm of torque. I think you need to research how dynos work and how they measure torque at the wheels.

Ouch. Check and Mate. :-) All good dude.

I have posted a dyno run sheeet. So in terms of torque measurement from the dyno, what do you read it as? I might get my 'google' on then to get a true calculation.....

post-74132-1287815449_thumb.jpg

Only off the line really. And even then a rwd is still fast with slicks. The world record holders are all rwd.

Not to get too far off topic, but it's not only off the line. So many times through twisty roads they can't get power down out of corners (and I'm not talking hairpins), yes in the drag world rwd with tubs and slicks is quick but who drives that on the street, this is more about realistic street cars than purpose build racecars with no rego

What I find funny is how people making comments such as the ones in this thread then they go in a fast gtr and all of a sudden they change their tune so to speak.

Anyway back on topic, do what feels good and as long as you're happy good for you

Definately tune for the most average power, you cant create more power from torque, but you can create more torque from power., ie stay in the previous gear longer where you would be producing more torque to the wheels.

You just tune for maximum power everywhere you can get it, period, obviously within a safety margin allowing for external factors (ie heatsoak, bad batch of fuel etc)

There is no such thing as a tune for power or a tune for torque, as horsepower is calculated from torque anyway. So in a nutshell, if you are able to make 10kw more power at XYZ rpm then great, you now have more torque at that point also. Quiet simple and easy to tune a car on a dyno properly, the only thing that can be easier on the road is transient enrichments and in some cases tuning for lumpy cams.

jump in a 400kw+ gtr and you will realise :P If you havent experienced it, how can you understand i suppose. 300rwkw to me seems abit slow and not that exciting like it used to be years ago when it was the fastest car i had been in.

Only off the line really. And even then a rwd is still fast with slicks. The world record holders are all rwd.

On the street?

You know, where 99% of us do our driving :P

I just came back from a DECA day (motorkhana) with my new GTR (350rwkw)... Not one car launched harder/faster.

This included blown Monaro's on slicks that I believe run 10's with relative ease :yes:

But yes, power is important to an extent - power delivery however is IMO the most important.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Latest Posts

    • You won't need to do that if your happy to learn to tune it yourself. You 100% do not need to do that. It is not part of the learning process. It's not like driving on track and 'finding the limit by stepping over the limit'. You should not ever accidently blow up an engine and you should have setup the ECU's engine protection to save you from yourself while you are learning anyway. Plenty of us have tuned their own cars, myself included. We still come here for advice/guidance/new ideas etc.  What have you been doing so far to learn how to tune?
    • Put the ECU's MAP line in your mouth. Blow as hard as you can. You should be able to see about 10 kPa, maybe 15 kPa positive pressure. Suck on it. You should be able to generate a decent vacuum to about the same level also. Note that this is only ~2 psi either way. If the MAP is reading -5 psi all the time, ignition on, engine running or not, driving around or not, then it is severely f**ked. Also, you SHOULD NOT BE DRIVING IT WITHOUT A LOAD REFERENCE. You will break the engine. Badly.
    • Could be correct. Meter might be that far out. Compare against a known 5 ohm 1% resistor.
    • @Murray_Calavera  If I were an expert I wouldn't be in here looking for assistance.  I am extremely computer literate, have above average understanding on how things should be working and how they should tie together.  If I need to go to a professional tuner so be it, but I'd much rather learn and do things myself even if it means looking for some guidance along the way and blowing up a few engines. @GTSBoy  I was hoping it would be as simple as a large vacuum leak somewhere but I'm unable to find anything, all lines seem to be well capped or going where they need to be, and when removed there is vacuum felt on the tube.  It would be odd for the Haltech built in MAP to be faulty, the GTT tune I imported had it enabled from the start, I incorrectly assumed it was reading a signal from the stock MAP, but that doesn't exist.  After running a vacuum hose to the ECU the signal doesn't change more than 0.2 in either direction.   I'll probably upload a video of my settings tomorrow, as it stands I'm able to daily drive, but getting stuttering when giving it gas from idle, so pulling away from lights is a slow process of revving it up and feathering the clutch until its moving, then it will accelerate fine.  It sounds like I need to get to the bottom of the manifold pressure issue, but the ignition timing section is most intimidating to me and will probably let a pro do that part.  Tomorrow I'll try a different vacuum line to T off of, with any luck I selected one that was already bypassed during the DBW swap.  (edit: I went out and did it right now, the line I had chosen did appear to have no vacuum on it, it used to go to the front of the intake, I've now completely blocked that one off at the bracket that holds several vacuum lines by the firewall.  I T'd into the vacuum line that goes from that bracket to the vacuum pump at the front of the car, but no change in the MAP readings).  Using the new vacuum line that has obvious vacuum on the hose, im still only getting readings between -6.0 and -5.2.  I'm wondering why the ECU was detecting -5.3 when nothing was connected to the MAP nipple and ECU MAP selected as the source. @feartherb26  I do have +T in the works but wanted to wait until Spring to start with that swap since this is my good winter AWD vehicle.  When removing the butterfly, did it leave a bunch of holes in the manifold that you needed to plug?  I thought about removing it but assumed it would be a mess.   I notice no difference when capping the vacuum line to it or letting it do its thing.  This whole thing has convinced me to just get a forward facing manifold when the time comes though.
    • Update: tested my spark plugs that are supposed to be 5ohms with a 10% deviation and one gave me a 0 ohms reading and the rest were 3.9ohm<, so one bad and the others on their way out.
×
×
  • Create New...