Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys anyone know the difference in spool / response and outright power between the two variants of the R34 N1s ie. the one the 0.6 a/r compressor compared to the 0.42 a/r

It seems every thing is identical besides for the comp a/r and i cant seem to find anything on the larger one

http://homepage.ntlworld.com/tbroom/Turbos.htm

ooh... Are the exh manifolds off the R34 N1/nur engine the same as a standard rb26? ...These are the gold-ish cover engine right?

Edited by Don Dada
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/341727-r34-n1-turbo-variants/
Share on other sites

are you sure one of the BNR34's is a 0.42a/r compressor?

from memory only BNR32/BCNR33 is 0.42a/r front whereas BNR34 is 0.53a/r and thats for the std trim items, never heard of 0.42a/r BNR34 stockers, let alone N1 or nismo items

yeah there are definitely R34 N1s with .64 exhaust AR and 0.42 comp AR and ones with same exhaust but .60 comp AR. guys AR is not the size of the thing. it's a ratio. ratio of area to radius. yes generally housings with a smaller AR ratio are physically smaller but it's not necessarily true, they are a different shape. size of wheels etc is needed too so you can tell if a turbo is physically bigger or smaller and it's power potential.

Yea if u look at the oem R34 ceramic turbo with the 0.53 a/r it is physically smaller than the earlier R32/33 turbos with the 0.42 a/r

I'm thinking due to wheel design efficiency it allowed them to run a smaller a/r on the last of the N1 turbos (aa403) yet maintain good flow... same as the N1 equivalent the -7 and the even more efficient -9 which both use 0.42 comps as well

http://www.turbobygarrett.com/turbobygarre...0R_707160_7.htm

http://www.turbobygarrett.com/turbobygarre...9R_707160_9.htm

exactly. the 0.53 AR R34 standard turbo is a physically smaller housing than the 0.42AR R34 N1 housing. they are a good thing. I think from memory GT-SS are 0.64 AR rear and 0.42 AR comp too? could be wrong that's off the top of my head. but as you say there is a garret equivalent bolt on turbo for GTR in the same 0.42 comp AR with 0.64 AR rear.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • You are selling this? I have never bought something from marketplace...i dont know if i trust that enough. And the price is little bit "too" good...
    • https://www.facebook.com/share/19kSVAc4tc/?mibextid=wwXIfr
    • It would be well worth deciding where you want to go and what you care about. Reliability of everything in a 34 drops MASSIVELY above the 300kw mark. Keeping everything going great at beyond that value will cost ten times the $. Clutches become shit, gearboxes (and engines/bottom ends) become consumable, traction becomes crap. The good news is looking legalish/actually being legal is slighly under the 300kw mark. I would make the assumption you want to ditch the stock plenum too and want to go a front facing unit of some description due to the cross flow. Do the bends on a return flow hurt? Not really. A couple of bends do make a difference but not nearly as much in a forced induction situation. Add 1psi of boost to overcome it. Nobody has ever gone and done a track session monitoring IAT then done a different session on a different intercooler and monitored IAT to see the difference here. All of the benefits here are likely in the "My engine is a forged consumable that I drive once a year because it needs a rebuild every year which takes 9 months of the year to complete" territory. It would be well worth deciding where you want to go and what you care about with this car.
    • By "reverse flow", do you mean "return flow"? Being the IC having a return pipe back behind the bumper reo, or similar? If so... I am currently making ~250 rwkW on a Neo at ~17-18 psi. With a return flow. There's nothing to indicate that it is costing me a lot of power at this level, and I would be surprised if I could not push it harder. True, I have not measured pressure drop across it or IAT changes, but the car does not seem upset about it in any way. I won't be bothering to look into it unless it starts giving trouble or doesn't respond to boost increases when I next put it on the dyno. FWIW, it was tuned with the boost controller off, so achieving ~15-16 psi on the wastegate spring alone, and it is noticeably quicker with the boost controller on and yielding a couple of extra pounds. Hence why I think it is doing OK. So, no, I would not arbitrarily say that return flows are restrictive. Yes, they are certainly restrictive if you're aiming for higher power levels. But I also think that the happy place for a street car is <300 rwkW anyway, so I'm not going to be aiming for power levels that would require me to change the inlet pipework. My car looks very stock, even though everything is different. The turbo and inlet pipes all look stock and run in the stock locations, The airbox looks stock (apart from the inlet being opened up). The turbo looks stock, because it's in the stock location, is the stock housings and can't really be seen anyway. It makes enough power to be good to drive, but won't raise eyebrows if I ever f**k up enough for the cops to lift the bonnet.
    • There is a guy who said he can weld me piping without having to cut chassis, maybe I do that ? Or do I just go reverse flow but isn’t reverse flow very limited once again? 
×
×
  • Create New...