Jump to content
SAU Community

Golgo fails EPA noise test with flying colours!


Recommended Posts

OK - so if I had read 91dB, I would have been cross, so to prepare, I fitted a CAT (thanks Gerald) and prayed to JASMA hoping for a legal pass...

97.8dB @ 5400 rpm!

Worth doing, worth doing properly :)

I think that's something like 6x louder than it should be?

The tester liked my titanium system, didn't charge me for the test - and said come back with a stock system for a big tick.

So... does a GTST stock system fit on an R?

Anyone got a stock R system lying around?

BTW: Sounds sucky with a cat. I know what will be going back on when the test is passed. Can't take away Godzilla's fire breathing ability :(

Don't think I just smart ass, but wouldn't it be better sense to make your own and keep it. If you have been pinged for noise once and you plan on going back to original after testing, surely you can see the possibility of getting done again. So! it would make sense to have your own spare stock system hanging around.

My system finished will be 3.5 inch from wategate entry back. 3 inch dump, 1.75 from ext wastegate, then 3.5 all the way including the cat. I'm sure I won't pass noise levels with this, so I will have a 2.75 press bent system on hand for just these occassions.

Guest RedLineGTR

Yah thats cool i know what you mean but honestly 90% of the GTRs i have seen in vic have come of the boat with a aftermarket exhuast...and most people keep it on as long as they can if they get EPA'd then they will look for a stock one. OH well i'm sure it will get sorted out soon.

Also just wondering why would a importer import a container or stock exhaust they make the money with aftermarket parts thats why its sometimes hard to track them down..and with the new importing scheme less stock parts are avaliable. My 2 Cents :)

On the strength of the imports having a/mkt systems, maybe the go would be to strangle the sh1t out of the system at the end.

make up a bolt on for the rear muffler.

Drop the big 4/5 inch canon and put on a restrictive stock muffler, just for testing.

Let's be honwst, for testing nobody care about performance, just limit the noise.

Would be a lot easier than changing the whole system.

James, I understand you have a cat replacement pipe. Why not get another made with some mesh welded in and put steel wool in front of it. Will strangle hell out of it and make it quiet as hell but will be no fun to drive.

Do the testers check the system for cat etc?

Would even a basic restrictor such as this work? even out of just sheet metal.

---

| o |

---

You could just bolt in behind the cat, if it wasn't visible doubt they could tell, and it *should* quieten down the noise. Most silencers I have seen are little different that just reducing the diameter of the pipe.

Jamez..

i have the stock GTS-T system for rainy days :P and what i suggest is that you take your rear muffler out and have a pipe made up to fit the stock muffler to your existing system....

i kept my 3 1/2 inch system, simply took off the rear muffler, had an 'S' pipe made to fit the stock muffler to the 3 1/2 inch sytem, 100+ db reduced to 83db... :mad:

it takes two bolts to undo to replace the beast muffler back on...:(

and you are welcome to borrow my stock exhaust/muffler...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Latest Posts

    • The time is always correct. Only the date is wrong. It currently thinks it is January 19. Tomorrow it will say it is January 20. The date and time are ( should be ! ) retrieved from the GPS navigation system.
    • Buy yourself a set of easy outs. See if they will get a good bite in and unthread it.   Very very lucky the whole sender didn't let go while on the track and cost you a motor!
    • Well GTSBoy, prepare yourself further. I did a track day with 1/2 a day prep on Friday, inpromptu. The good news is that I got home, and didn't drive the car into a wall. Everything seemed mostly okay. The car was even a little faster than it was last time. I also got to get some good datalog data too. I also noticed a tiny bit of knock which was (luckily?) recorded. All I know is the knock sensors got recalibrated.... and are notorious for false knock. So I don't know if they are too sensitive, not sensitive enough... or some other third option. But I reduced timing anyway. It wasn't every pull through the session either. Think along the lines of -1 degree of timing for say, three instances while at the top of 4th in a 20 minute all-hot-lap session. Unfortunately at the end of session 2... I noticed a little oil. I borrowed some jack stands and a jack and took a look under there, but as is often the case, messing around with it kinda half cleaned it up, it was not conclusive where it was coming from. I decided to give it another go and see how it was. The amount of oil was maybe one/two small drops. I did another 20 minute session and car went well, and I was just starting to get into it and not be terrified of driving on track. I pulled over and checked in the pits and saw this: This is where I called it, packed up and went home as I live ~20 min from the track with a VERY VERY CLOSE EYE on Oil Pressure on the way home. The volume wasn't much but you never know. I checked it today when I had my own space/tools/time to find out what was going on, wanted to clean it up, run the car and see if any of the fittings from around the oil filter were causing it. I have like.. 5 fittings there, so I suspected one was (hopefully?) the culprit. It became immediately apparent as soon as I looked around more closely. 795d266d-a034-4b8c-89c9-d83860f5d00a.mp4       This is the R34 GTT oil sender connected via an adapter to an oil cooler block I have installed which runs AN lines to my cooler (and back). There's also an oil temp sensor on top.  Just after that video, I attempted to unthread the sensor to see if it's loose/worn and it disintegrated in my hand. So yes. I am glad I noticed that oil because it would appear that complete and utter catastrophic engine failure was about 1 second of engine runtime away. I did try to drill the fitting out, and only succeeded in drilling the middle hole much larger and now there's a... smooth hole in there with what looks like a damn sleeve still incredibly tight in there. Not really sure how to proceed from here. My options: 1) Find someone who can remove the stuck fitting, and use a steel adapter so it won't fatigue? (Female BSPT for the R34 sender to 1/8NPT male - HARD to find). IF it isn't possible to remove - Buy a new block ($320) and have someone tap a new 1/8NPT in the top of it ($????) and hope the steel adapter works better. 2) Buy a new block and give up on the OEM pressure sender for the dash entirely, and use the supplied 1/8 NPT for the oil temp sender. Having the oil pressure read 0 in the dash with the warning lamp will give me a lot of anxiety driving around. I do have the actual GM sensor/sender working, but it needs OBD2 as a gauge. If I'm datalogging I don't actually have a readout of what the gauge is currently displaying. 3) Other? Find a new location for the OEM sender? Though I don't know of anywhere that will work. I also don't know if a steel adapter is actually functionally smart here. It's clearly leveraged itself through vibration of the motor and snapped in half. This doesn't seem like a setup a smart person would replicate given the weight of the OEM sender. Still pretty happy being lucky for once and seeing this at the absolute last moment before bye bye motor in a big way, even if an adapter is apparently 6 weeks+ delivery and I have no way to free the current stuck/potentially destroyed threads in the current oil block.
    • Literally looks like direct port nitrous haha
×
×
  • Create New...