Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

So i have been thinking about getting a locker aka welded diff and was wondering about peoples experiences.

i drive a s14 with nearly 200,000kms. no doubt the stock viscous LSD is worn yet i don't have the money to spend $900 on a real 2 way.

on the track is a locker better then a worn viscous LSD? what's it like driving in the wet?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/342317-poor-mans-2-way/
Share on other sites

Shim the stock VLSD centre up, will cost <$20 and there's a tutorial up in the DIY section.

I shimmed up the old VLSD out of my 32gtst and chucked it in the Stagea, was really tight for a couple of weeks but it's loosened up to the point where I barely feel it when full lock backing out of a parking space, but still lights both wheels predictably. I removed the standard shims and put a 1.49mm shim on each side of the VLSD unit.

If you're shimming the centre out of your car, you can just slap it back in.

If you're shimming a centre from another car and putting it in your housing (like I did, 32gtst VLSD centre in to Stagea open centre housing), you need to set up the backlash.. I paid my diff guy $200 to do that as I'm not geared up for it and it's my daily so didn't want to fk anything.

If you want to change ratios, you need the whole housing as the crown wheel matches the pinion gear..

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/342317-poor-mans-2-way/#findComment-5522400
Share on other sites

awesome, thanks for that. i think the best option and cheapest would be to shim it up and see how it goes. ive seen the tutorial but is there any difference between a s13 r200 and a skyline r200 diff besides the number of bolts in the driveshafts?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/342317-poor-mans-2-way/#findComment-5522466
Share on other sites

awesome, thanks for that. i think the best option and cheapest would be to shim it up and see how it goes. ive seen the tutorial but is there any difference between a s13 r200 and a skyline r200 diff besides the number of bolts in the driveshafts?

Backing plates are different between S13 and R32gtst.

I used an S13 auto diff to change my ratios from 4.3 to 3.9, my Nismo 2-way centre fit in the S13 housing and I used the 32gtst axles.

shims break more often then lockers.

im sure you can change diff ratios without changing the entire diff.

Where do you get that from? I'd be more worried about snapping axles with a locker. If you're that worried, fork out for a proper mechanical diff.

My shimmed VLSD is going strong in my heavy assed wagon and it's nowhere near as harsh as the 2-way in the skyline but seems just as predictable (not so much lock on decel tho).

As far as changing ratios, the crown wheel has to match the pinion gear.... you don't HAVE to change the housing but if you don't, you still need to change the pinion gear over which means new bearings and seals.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/342317-poor-mans-2-way/#findComment-5522698
Share on other sites

Backing plates are different between S13 and R32gtst.

I used an S13 auto diff to change my ratios from 4.3 to 3.9, my Nismo 2-way centre fit in the S13 housing and I used the 32gtst axles.

Where do you get that from? I'd be more worried about snapping axles with a locker. If you're that worried, fork out for a proper mechanical diff.

My shimmed VLSD is going strong in my heavy assed wagon and it's nowhere near as harsh as the 2-way in the skyline but seems just as predictable (not so much lock on decel tho).

As far as changing ratios, the crown wheel has to match the pinion gear.... you don't HAVE to change the housing but if you don't, you still need to change the pinion gear over which means new bearings and seals.

not worried about anything i just wanted peoples experiences with lockers since i know im not getting it shimmed. also, i already said i cant afford a 2way and even if i could, i wouldn't get one. there are vastly more mods i need to do before getting a 2way.

interested to know what exactly "breaks"

it is possible to break the welds though that might be because of a poorly welded diff.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/342317-poor-mans-2-way/#findComment-5523083
Share on other sites

if you drive it regularly.. do not get it welded.

Welded diffs are horrible on the road.. they make the car sound like it rattling itself to bits any point the lightest bit of steering lock is applied.

Welded diff like to shag axels.

Its an irriversable operation.

They are a death wish in the rain!!! You will find yourself into a tree, gutter or god knows what else before you leave the driveway.

They tear tyres to bits.

The only reason I would suggest getting a welded diff is if its a dedicated track car. Only then. And even they id suggest get a spool diff instead of welding.

Re-shimming is a cheaper alturnative, its better on the car, better for the driver, better in a daily situation and is adjustable.

Edited by GTS4WD
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/342317-poor-mans-2-way/#findComment-5523122
Share on other sites

Where can you get it welded for $50?? I want in! Pls pm me.

I think you should weld it. It will be tighter than a 2way and more predictable than any shimmed diff. I've heard a number of people say the shims loosen up after weeks or months.

I can't vouch for what it's like to drive as i'm waiting to do mine. I hate the viscous, it sucks the big one.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/342317-poor-mans-2-way/#findComment-5523125
Share on other sites

if you drive it regularly.. do not get it welded.

Welded diffs are horrible on the road.. they make the car sound like it rattling itself to bits any point the lightest bit of steering lock is applied.

Welded diff like to shag axels.

Its an irriversable operation.

They are a death wish in the rain!!! You will find yourself into a tree, gutter or god knows what else before you leave the driveway.

They tear tyres to bits.

The only reason I would suggest getting a welded diff is if its a dedicated track car. Only then. And even they id suggest get a spool diff instead of welding.

Re-shimming is a cheaper alturnative, its better on the car, better for the driver, better in a daily situation and is adjustable.

while it's a daily, my car doesn't have rear seats, rear sound deadening, rear interior ect. everything rattles already.

irreversible? isn't the centre the only thing that's welded? so just get another centre?

you sure it's that bad in the rain? i know many people who drive with them daily and don't find the wet that bad. it's supposed to be very predictable thus you can tell when the oversteer is coming.

shims don't stay tight though, depending how it's driven. it'd rather it be constantly the same.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/342317-poor-mans-2-way/#findComment-5523145
Share on other sites

it's not really as bad as people whinge on about... in fact i'd be willing to bet that most people that whinge on about weld'y have never actually driven one.

i have a welded diff in my 4age KE70 and it is not dangerous. just take it slow in the wet (as you should in ANY car) and you're fine.

it is more predictable than a worn stocker and takes all of 5 minutes to learn

it is irreversable yes, but you can replace it with a second hand stocker for like $3.79

imho, go for it as it will be better than stock, and if yo dont like it, then just change it back

of course a real diff is better.... but it's also 25 times the price

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/342317-poor-mans-2-way/#findComment-5523231
Share on other sites

lock diff is actually pretty good when going sideways or locking both wheels up, the only downfall is all the clunking noise it makes.

its not so bad in the wet, ive never locked up or had any accidents/near accidents with it installed.

if i was to do it again, id shim the diff up instead.

do shimmed diffs make all the clunking noise as well ?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/342317-poor-mans-2-way/#findComment-5523285
Share on other sites

Just give your mechanic a call he should be able to do it, or even your local butcher :P .

IMHO i hate welded diffs, have never liked the way they drive and they're characteristics, but i also have a 2 way that sometimes acts like that

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/342317-poor-mans-2-way/#findComment-5524388
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I have been being VERY quiet about what you're alluding to, as it is something that ticks me off... The number of cars from factory that run coil overs is HUGE! Most of them these days do... The other part that annoys me, is people saying "Well all the incabin adjustable suspension is illegal by blah blah blah"... If that's the case, then why can I buy a car brand new that can do it if, FULL STOP in cabin adjustable suspension is illegal...   Also, I could just chuck some aftermarket shocks in my car, throw the stock springs on, after my blue slip, dump my super low springs back in. Same shock and spring style setup... Hell, they could also be the same colour springs etc.     I'm voting, BlueSlipper didn't want to touch the above car for some reason. Whether it be some sort of bias against the car, the owner, them maybe having previously done dodgy shit and now they're being super careful in case they get slapped in the face by the Gumbyment again... Find a new blueslip place.   And can confirm as you had said, yes there are holy bibles of vehicle heights, and all sorts of other suspension stuff. Heck your run of the mill mechanic, and tyre shop has access to all of that stuff. It's how they do wheel alignments...
    • Funny story Heading to Sydney this morning on the HWY there was some slow traffic, so I gave it the beans and midway through my overtaking "power run" I lost all power It seems that I missed a hose clamp,  and the MAF and filter went WiFi To make this more problematic, the little tool kit that lives in the boot, is sitting in the sun room at Goulburn......LOL Luckily for me I found a bit of steel on the side of the road that could be used like a rusty and bent flat head screw driver to tighten it up enough that it got me into Sydney, it is now all tight like a tiger with the aid of a 8mm socket Note to self: Use my brain and double check stuff, and always keep that little tool kit in the car for when I have a brain fart
    • Oh, and as for everyone with their fuel economy changes, I switch between E10 and 98 in the company car. Even do when I had personal cars that could run on E10. You know what changed my fuel economy in any noticeable way? How I drove, and where I drove. Otherwise, say on full tanks of just back and forth from work only (So same trips, same sort of traffic), couldn't notice a difference that I can correlate to the type of fuel in use. In the current vehicle, that's over 42L of USABLE fuel. While 98 is all "more energy dense", it also has higher knock resistance as it takes more energy to get it to ignite too. The longer hydrocarbons, typically more tightly bound. So running the same ignition map, can also produce less power, if there isn't enough time to get it all burnt through properly, as yep, the flame propagation speed is different from lower octane fuel to higher (Higher has a lower flame propagation, due to the more tightly bound and harder to self ignite funs. This is also typically where, a vehicle that is designed purely to run on 91 (Whether it be E10 or normal 91) usually sees absolutely no real world difference in fuel economy for the normal man, woman, or dog.
    • We've got some servos around me that have 91 with E10, 91 (no E10), 95, and 98. At those stations the change from 91 E10 to 91, is typically around 8c/L.   But lets not get started on the price of fuel in Oz. It's ridiculous. All the service stations around me, bar one, the price of fuel has been over the $2 mark per litre for the cheapest, 98 being around $2.45. That one service station is a CostCo, fuel from it comes from the same refineries, and makes no pitstops, it runs great, including the 98. In fact, I've had no issues on CostCo fuel, but plenty of issues at other stations!. The CostCo fuel, was $1.65 roughly this week for 94 with E10. $1.88 for 98. Servos directly across from it, $2.10 for 91 E10, and $2.48 for 98. The part I had to laugh at? If I drive multiple HOURS away from Brisbane, say out near Nanango, or Kingaroy, or even out to Goondiwindi, the price of their fuel, is the same as what it is at the CostCo... Oh, and that BP servo at Goondiwindi is HUGE and goes through epic turnover of fuel, so it's not sitting there for weeks going to shit. And what blows me away, my mate is one of the people who drives the Fuel Tanker all around QLD, delivering to all those places. At the same company his previous role was doing the "local haul" deliveries... Same truck, same driver, same pickup point it all comes from. So you tell me, how the hell it is 60c/L CHEAPER for fuel, when nearly all else is equal, except they require a B-Double to drive half a day out of Brisbane, and half a day back, every second day, compared to the delivery that can be under 30 minutes drive from the fuel pickup point... Not to mention, go five blocks down the road, and Ampol to Ampol will vary 30c/L... And I've had this conversation with my mate... The way it's priced, is just typical, pure and utter rubbish... He also does runs from Brisbane, to all over QLD, down to Newcastle, Sydney, Nowra, Melbourne, Geelong, and even out to parts of the NT depending on the companies needs. His main stuff is all the longer distance away from home for a few days at a time, then when he's back, he loves to just pickup extra shifts wherever he can in whichever truck, hence all the weird different places.   Oh, as for getting E10 into all the fuels in Australia... It was very quickly highlighted, that we don't have enough biomass available to use to make E10 sustainably like they require, and it would dramatically cut into our, and the worlds food chain supply...   I vote we all just start running on liquid methane gas... Plenty of that just getting tapped off at tips from underground decay... (Note, this is pure just stupid commenting. I could very easily highlight the reasons its not a good idea especially on scale...)
    • Am I correct in assuming that the R35's are getting the classic skyline haircut off the odometer?  Quick search on carsales, there are 33 08 and 09 GTR's for sale, only 2 of them have more then 100,000km's on them (116,075 and 110,000 respectively).  And somehow there are about 25 for sale with around 60,000kms? Looks like the classic skyline haircut to me =/
×
×
  • Create New...