Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi Guys,

Jumped in the car the other day and the clutch felt a lot different... I could get into gears 1-5 but not reverse... The next day i couldnt get into any gear!

I have had a look at the fluid levels and they are full no leaking? I had a similiar issue last year where the slave cylinder had shat itself and there was fluid leaking from underneath...

Could it be the slave cylinder again? I only had it replaced not long ago and the car does not get driven much its mainly a weekender...

Advice is appreciated!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/343600-r32-gts-t-clutch-problem/
Share on other sites

Does the clutch feel very light when u push it down?

If so maybe you've broken the bracket up the top of the clutch pedal?

Happened to me maybe 3 weeks ago, clutch was fine and then one day It was feeling really light and I couldn't get it into gear

First off,,,get under the car,,,jacks and stands properly possitioned and pull back the outer boot off the slave cylinder,,,if there is fluid leaking then you know it's the slave,,,.Then start working your forward.

Cheers

Neil.

Hi Guys,

The friction point is much lower then it should be.... And it is a bit crunchy i need to really push the gears in.... There is nothing leaking from the outside or the cabin and i have had a look under the car to check the slave cylinder which seems to be operating fine...

I managed to crunch it into gears whilst running to drive it down the road to a mechanics... He says his"educational" guess is that the master cylinder has shat itself.... I dont want to replace this and find out its not the problem.... Has anyone got any ideas??

And whats the part number for the master cylinder and how much will it set me back

Regards

Ok had my brother in laws mate come past who got under the pedals with a shifter and a set of tweasers and fixed it in under 5 minutes?? I could not really get a word out of him my arabic is not good but i could understand 1 thing he said which was your clutch is halfway... So halfway out i take it?

The friction point is still pretty low and i find it better now as i didnt like it so high up... But how long will i have until it completely goes?

Think i should start looking for a replacement

There's noway anyone on here can tell u how long u have before ur clutch goes because none of us have seen ur car.. If I was u I would take it to a work shop and tell them everything u know... If u can't fiqure it out they should beable too.

If u live in nsw in the western suburbs I can pm u a great workshop to go too, I take my car there for everything.

Chibs, if it went from "perfectly normal" to "pick up very low and broken" in a space of getting in and out, then you have either a leaking hydraulic system/broken pivots etc OR the clutch pedal has broken.

If you're not loosing fluid, then I'd say you've broken the pivot or the clutch pedal bracket.

Since adjusting it helped, I'd say you've broken the clutch pedal bracket.

Which means get it fixed.

Climb under the dash upside down, look at the clutch pedal where it mounts in up high, if as you press it the bracket moves, you've snapped the bracket.

Pull the dash out, reweld the bracket.

Hi Guys,

Thanks for the replys appreciate them.... Yes i do live in the west but i have a hard time trusting mechanics because of the **** they charge you with...

If this workshop you talk about are honest people it would be good to head down there to see what they have to say...

Hi Matt thanks for that i will get under there tonight with a torch and have a look at what you said... Yeah adjusting it did help and it seems to be fine at the moment but friction point is a lot lower then it used to be..

Cheers!

Hi Guys,

Thanks for the replys appreciate them.... Yes i do live in the west but i have a hard time trusting mechanics because of the **** they charge you with...

If this workshop you talk about are honest people it would be good to head down there to see what they have to say...

Hi Matt thanks for that i will get under there tonight with a torch and have a look at what you said... Yeah adjusting it did help and it seems to be fine at the moment but friction point is a lot lower then it used to be..

Cheers!

It sounds extremely likely you've broken the clutch pedal bracket then.

When I snapped mine the friction point was basically at the floor.

Hi Guys,

Jumped in the car the other day and the clutch felt a lot different... I could get into gears 1-5 but not reverse... The next day i couldnt get into any gear!

I have had a look at the fluid levels and they are full no leaking? I had a similiar issue last year where the slave cylinder had shat itself and there was fluid leaking from underneath...

Could it be the slave cylinder again? I only had it replaced not long ago and the car does not get driven much its mainly a weekender...

Advice is appreciated!

hey chibs,

might sound silly of me to ask, but how old is the clutch???

personally i reckon u need a new one, change the slave and at the same time they aint that expensive......u WILL appreciate it.

sounds like the same symptoms i had 6 months ago, i finally cracked it not knowing how to fix it, thought the clutch aint that old (i put it in myself bout two years before) took the car to louis......clutch was f**ked.....new one, a week later the old slave went. new slave perfecto till some f**ker stole it all again

cheers

mick

Edited by mii11x

Chibs honestly u can trust the guy I go to, I've known him for over 5years and he's deadset a honest bloke.. He will look after you. Plus I'm almost 100% sure that the problem with ur car is the clutch pedal itself.

As I said, if u want pm me and I'll give u the details.

I bought the car last year October from a jap dealer on parra road... I would say the clutch is pretty old dont know exactly how many years though.. I changed the slave cylinder in it early this year

I will take it to teh workshop matty is talking about in above post and see what they think.... I will most likely replace the clutch if it comes to it.. Thanks guys!

Still have not had the chance to get under and look at the pedal myself been held up at work for the past few nights...

Alright guys it turns out it was my master cylinder !!! Where can i find one for my R32? Anyone know of a place..?

Apparently its "Special" because it has a bleeder on the top

http://www.justjap.com/store/product.php?p...=277&page=1

Alright guys it turns out it was my master cylinder !!! Where can i find one for my R32? Anyone know of a place..?

Apparently its "Special" because it has a bleeder on the top

most nissan dealers should be able to get you one these days mate, campbelltown nissan on mill road is where i go

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Input shaft bearing. They all do it. There is always rollover noise in Nissan boxes - particularly the big box. Don't worry about it unless it gets really growly.
    • For once a good news  It needed to be adjusted by that one nut and it is ok  At least something was easy But thank you very much for help. But a small issue is now(gearbox) that when the car is stationary you can hear "clinking" from gearbox so some of the bearing is 100% not that happy... It goes away once you push clutch so it is 100% gearbox. Just if you know...what that bearing could be? It sounding like "spun bearing" but it is louder.
    • Yeah, that's fine**. But the numbers you came up with are just wrong. Try it for yourself. Put in any voltage from the possible range and see what result you get. You get nonsense. ** When I say "fine", I mean, it's still shit. The very simple linear formula (slope & intercept) is shit for a sensor with a non-linear response. This is the curve, from your data above. Look at the CURVE! It's only really linear between about 30 and 90 °C. And if you used only that range to define a curve, it would be great. But you would go more and more wrong as you went to higher temps. And that is why the slope & intercept found when you use 50 and 150 as the end points is so bad halfway between those points. The real curve is a long way below the linear curve which just zips straight between the end points, like this one. You could probably use the same slope and a lower intercept, to move that straight line down, and spread the error out. But you would 5-10°C off in a lot of places. You'd need to say what temperature range you really wanted to be most right - say, 100 to 130, and plop the line closest to teh real curve in that region, which would make it quite wrong down at the lower temperatures. Let me just say that HPTuners are not being realistic in only allowing for a simple linear curve. 
    • I feel I should re-iterate. The above picture is the only option available in the software and the blurb from HP Tuners I quoted earlier is the only way to add data to it and that's the description they offer as to how to figure it out. The only fields available is the blank box after (Input/ ) and the box right before = Output. Those are the only numbers that can be entered.
    • No, your formula is arse backwards. Mine is totally different to yours, and is the one I said was bang on at 50 and 150. I'll put your data into Excel (actually it already is, chart it and fit a linear fit to it, aiming to make it evenly wrong across the whole span. But not now. Other things to do first.
×
×
  • Create New...