Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

but no real benefits?

Take some pressure readings along your exhaust before each component. If you have more than a few psi of presssure anywhere then you have power robbing restriction.

If you have restriction... remove it.

Personally I would go bigger pipe size for that turbo, unless it's a straight pipe with no mufflers.

Cheers

Justin

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/343649-zorst-3-vs-4/#findComment-5541205
Share on other sites

it isn't going to make it worse though

This is what I think, Although after some discussion with some really experienced builders, they think this is not the case.

It is thought that having to big of an exhaust does effect torque. Personally if i was chasing every hp possible i would do what 'XRATED' said, just like inlet lengths need to be tuned so does the exhaust. although turbo cars are no where near as fussy as other cars (after the manifold) it would still make a couple of hp difference.

Edited by phat_man
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/343649-zorst-3-vs-4/#findComment-5542155
Share on other sites

It isn't like an NA car where tuned extractors and smaller pipes to maximise velocity help, on a turbo car the exhaust is under such a high pressure due to the collector you want it as free as possible, I really wouldn't doubt if a straight pipe helped power over the entire graph.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/343649-zorst-3-vs-4/#findComment-5542194
Share on other sites

With turbos, you just want to get the gasses out of there as fast as possible, any back pressure post-turbine will slow the turbine down.

With long exhausts on a street car, stepping the size of the exhaust down helps maintain velocity. For example, a 4" dump in to a 3.5" front then 3" catback would probably work quite well (or maybe 2x 2.5" so you still get the volume but you increase the velocity).

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/343649-zorst-3-vs-4/#findComment-5542220
Share on other sites

read my post.

you need 4" for 400-440 (t04z) range.

3" will be hurting that setup.

Not true at all, at top end when you are making that kind of power a whole lot of exhaust is bypassing the exhaust via the wastegate...

3" on 26 with T04z regularly make between 430-470rwkw

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/343649-zorst-3-vs-4/#findComment-5542225
Share on other sites

It really depends on your power level.

I'm running a 3in exhaust from cat back. and putting out 350rwkw

i've got a 3in decat, 3.5in muffler and a aftermarket front pipe.

its a pretty straight design with minimal bends. it does the job!

i think if i were heading for closer to the 400rwkw mark i would be looking into a 4in exhaust or at least a 3.5in

i also think that some people get confussed thinking that a bigger exhaust will allow faster spool up, but that's only true if the current exhaust is a restriction at that rpm and load point, which i would higly doubt that a 3in is a restriction at 4,000rpm. it'd be a restriction up higher and when 25psi or more boost starts pumping through the motor.

it might make your decision easier to listen to what a car with a 3in sounds like vs a 4in exhaust, i like my 3in because its quiet enough to not attract too much attention and if flows well enough for my needs.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/343649-zorst-3-vs-4/#findComment-5542232
Share on other sites

Garrett engineers on their website clearly state that the less restriction after the turbo the better. Sure this needs to be weighed up with physical limitations and noise levels etc. But a greater flowing exhaust can only improve response and top end power. Obviously, whether its even noticeable depends on your power levels but at 400rwkw I think it would be very noticeable.

Just because some cars manage to get 400rwkw through a 3" exhaust doesnt mean they couldnt be a heap better with a larger exhaust.

Min 3.5" IMO

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/343649-zorst-3-vs-4/#findComment-5542263
Share on other sites

i also think that some people get confussed thinking that a bigger exhaust will allow faster spool up, but that's only true if the current exhaust is a restriction at that rpm and load point, which i would higly doubt that a 3in is a restriction at 4,000rpm. it'd be a restriction up higher and when 25psi or more boost starts pumping through the motor.

Very interesting point, makes sense.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/343649-zorst-3-vs-4/#findComment-5542271
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Latest Posts

    • Update all   thanks to the workshop manual, it lead me back to checking fuses as mentioned central locking and door open lights worked when acc was switched on. diagram attached shows two points of power 1. ACC and 2.  Batt with the later being fused (#28) I did check the fuses using a multimeter but I must have stuffed that up also. Went back and checked the batt fuse in interior fuse box and you wouldn’t believe it… a blown fuse. replaced fuse and everything is now working as it should including the climate control   thank you all with your positive insight and knowledge.    
    • Where is the warning "That this thread is super old"   I just went into a 5 year old thread, went to do a reply, and couldn't see anywhere obvious a warning of it being super old
    • Duncan is correct. Pitwork (and Toyota's own cheap brand "Drive Joy") were primarily created as brands to sell other manufacturers car parts. It would be weird if Nissan sold parts for Toyota vehicles with a Nissan logo on it, so they created Pitwork to sell parts for other brans Toyota, Honda etc. They are not the same as Nissan genuine parts, although they *do* meet Nissan's standards for replacement parts. They aren't supposed to be a substitute for genuine parts, but a cheaper alternative that is better than Ebay fake parts from you-know-where.
    • Thanks GTSBoy, much easier to work with it now it's free!  
    • I _think_ that one has a christmas tree or some other retainer spike into a hole in that panel under it. Come in under it with thin scredrivers and just pry it gently up. If you rip the ears off the retainer pin....so what? Just stick it back down after with a bit of race tape and carry on with life.
×
×
  • Create New...