Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey guys just wondering if anyone can help me out as ive been told to many things and am spending to much money

the car is a r32 skyline with a rb20det and running a gt30 and the other usual crap. the ferstime it got hot we then changed the fan to a thermo fan still over heated then still over heated so switched to a different thirmo fan still over heated got a thick as hell alloy radwith yet anougher thermo fan and still over heats. have been told that the head might have chacked but the coolent is clean and oil is normal so i dont think it would be that problem.

any one know what the issue would be

thanks stuart

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/343911-rb20-overheating/
Share on other sites

My missus corolla had a cracked head recently and the only symptoms were it would over heat maybe once or twice a week and needed the coolant to be topped up a sh$t load every time it happened. So I started checking the coolant daily and found some days it was ok (night driving only, so it seemed) but most other times it needed a little top up. I spent ages replacing things, getting angry and swearing a lot. I took it to my a radiator guy and told him everything. All he did was pop the bonnet, pop the radiator cap, disconnect the ignition coil and crank the engine. It was immediately apparent that compression was escaping through the cooling system. You could literally see wisps of compression as it bubbled out of the radiator.

A few weeks later the RB25 in my ceffie started doing a very similar thing. So I did the same test and got the same results. Prior to testing my cefiro I performed the test on my bro's C33, RB20E which has a buggered radiator so is always overheating and there was no burbling of the coolant. Just nice still coolant, as it should be.

So Try that, otherwise perform a compression test.

If no results, then have a leakdown test performed.

My two cents.

Hope this helps!

Cheers!

Edited by RBceffy25

1.thermostate

2.air in system (raise the front of the car right up, like as high as you can get it and crack off the air bleeder and let it run. then just top up the coolant as required should be alright after that if its got air)

3.water pump failure

4.shit coolant (buy some nissan gen and mix it 60 coolant/40 water) its good stuff man i wouldnt use anything else.

oh another thing, where are the heater hoses blocked off from? if its straight off the motor ok but if you still have the hoses connected and blocked off after the heater core then there will be air, the core always seems to hold air in it, its a pain in the ass

Edited by XxNinjaxX

A few things you need to clarify:

Under what conditions does it over heat?

What "thick as" radiator do you have and did it have the problem before you put this in?

What intercooler are you running?

Have you bled the system correctly?

Have you done a comp test?

Have you done a co test on your radiator?

Fill in the above to proceed, thanks.

brand new alloy 50mm rad and had the same issue before with the sandard one.

600x300x75 intercooler angle mounted

compression test reads fine

ill do what you said about making shaw if there is any air trapped in the system

thanks for the help

brand new alloy 50mm rad and had the same issue before with the sandard one.

600x300x75 intercooler angle mounted

Can you explain what you mean by angle mounted? And do you have the stock cooler at home still so you can try that?

Also, what brand is this 50mm alloy rad?

You should do the CO test asap.

1.thermostate

2.air in system (raise the front of the car right up, like as high as you can get it and crack off the air bleeder and let it run. then just top up the coolant as required should be alright after that if its got air)

3.water pump failure

4.shit coolant (buy some nissan gen and mix it 60 coolant/40 water) its good stuff man i wouldnt use anything else.

oh another thing, where are the heater hoses blocked off from? if its straight off the motor ok but if you still have the hoses connected and blocked off after the heater core then there will be air, the core always seems to hold air in it, its a pain in the ass

One thing to note on Point #4, straight water is the best for cooling, it absorbes and transfers heat better than a mix of water and glycol.

The more "radiator fluid" you add the less efficient the cooling system is, but it means the boiling point is higher and resists corrosion.

One thing to note on Point #4, straight water is the best for cooling, it absorbs and transfers heat better than a mix of water and glycol.

The more "radiator fluid" you add the less efficient the cooling system is, but it means the boiling point is higher and resists corrosion.

cheers for the info, was unaware of that. However i run a mix of 60/40 and mine never even makes half on the gauge. the most water i would have in my system personally is 50% purely to avoid corrosion in the motor and lowering the chance of boiling the motor (defiantly don't want to do this!) but yeah that's just me, cheers again for the information!

did comp test again and was fine then checked out some other crap i dont understand and turns out its the head gasket (dont really understand as i thought it woiuld show in the comp test but anyway

thanks for the help guys

so seeing its going to be open dropping some forgies in :)

Edited by stewari

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • From there, it is really just test and assemble. Plug the adapter cables from the unit into the back of the screen, then the other side to the car harness. Don't forget all the other plugs too! Run the cables behind the unit and screw it back into place (4 screws) and you should now have 3 cables to run from the top screen to the android unit. I ran them along the DS of the other AV units in the gap between their backets and the console, and used some corrugated tubing on the sharp edges of the bracket so the wires were safe. Plug the centre console and lower screen in temporarily and turn the car to ACC, the AV should fire up as normal. Hold the back button for 3 sec and Android should appear on the top screen. You need to set the input to Aux for audio (more on that later). I put the unit under the AC duct in the centre console, with the wifi antenna on top of the AC duct near the shifter, the bluetooth antenna on the AC duct under the centre console The GPS unit on top of the DS to AC duct; they all seem to work OK there are are out of the way. Neat cable routing is a pain. For the drive recorder I mounted it near the rear view mirror and run the cable in the headlining, across the a pillar and then down the inside of the a pillar seal to the DS lower dash. From there it goes across and to one USB input for the unit. The second USB input is attached to the ECUtec OBD dongle and the 3rd goes to the USB bulkhead connected I added in the centre console. This is how the centre console looks "tidied" up Note I didn't install the provided speaker, didn't use the 2.5mm IPod in line or the piggyback loom for the Ipod or change any DIP switches; they seem to only be required if you need to use the Ipod input rather than the AUX input. That's it, install done, I'll follow up with a separate post on how the unit works, but in summary it retains all factory functions and inputs (so I still use my phone to the car for calls), reverse still works like factory etc.
    • Place the new daughterboard in the case and mount it using the 3 small black rivets provided, and reconnect the 3 factory ribbon cables to the new board Then, use the 3 piggyback cables from the daughterboard into the factory board on top (there are stand offs in the case to keep them apart. and remember to reconnect the antenna and rear cover fan wires. 1 screw to hold the motherboard in place. Before closing the case, make a hole in the sticker covering a hole in the case and run the cable for the android unit into the plug there. The video forgot this step, so did I, so will you probably. Then redo the 4 screws on back, 2 each top and bottom, 3 each side and put the 2 brackets back on.....all ready to go and not that tricky really.      
    • Onto the android unit. You need to remove the top screen because there is a daughterboard to put inside the case. Each side vent pops out from clips; start at the bottom and carefully remove upwards (use a trim remover tool to avoid breaking anything). Then the lower screen and controls come out, 4 screws, a couple of clips (including 3 flimsy ones at the top) and 3 plugs on the rear. Then the upper screen, 4 screws and a bunch of plugs and she is out. From there, remove the mounting brackets (2 screws each), 4 screws on the rear, 2 screws top and bottom and 3 screws holding in the small plates on each side. When you remove the back cover (tight fit), watch out for the power cable for the fan, I removed it so I could put the back aside. The mainboard is held in by 1 screw in the middle, 1 aerial at the top and 3 ribbon cables. If you've ever done any laptop stuff the ribbon cables are OK to work with, just pop up the retainer and they slide out. If you are not familiar just grab a 12 year old from an iphone factory, they will know how it works The case should now look like this:
    • Switching the console was tricky. First there were 6 screws to remove, and also the little adapter loom and its screws had to come out. Also don't forget to remove the 2 screws holding the central locking receiver. Then there are 4 clips on either side....these were very tight in this case and needed careful persuading with a long flat screw driver....some force required but not enough to break them...this was probably the fiddliest part of the whole job. In my case I needed both the wiring loom and the central locking receiver module to swap across to the new one. That was it for the console, so "assembly is the reverse of disassembly"
    • But first....while I was there, I also swapped across the centre console box for the other style where the AV inputs don't intrude into the (very limited !) space.  Part# was 96926-4GA0A, 284H3-4GA0B, 284H3-4GA0A. (I've already swapped the top 12v socket for a USB bulkhead in this pic, it fit the hole without modification:) Comparison of the 2: Basically to do the console you need to remove the DS and PS side console trim (they slide up and back, held in by clips only) Then remove the back half of the console top trim with the cupholders, pops up, all clips again but be careful at the front as it is pretty flimsy. Then slide the shifter boot down, remove the spring clip, loose it forever somewhere in the car the pull the shift knob off. Remove the tiny plastic piece on DS near "P" and use something thin and long (most screwdrivers won't fit) to push down the interlock and put the shifter down in D for space. There is one screw at the front, then the shifter surround and ashtray lift up. There are 3 or 4 plugs underneath and it is off. Next is the rear cover of the centre console; you need to open the console lid, pop off the trim covering the lid hinge and undo the 2rd screw from the driver's side (the rest all need to come out later so you can do them all now and remove the lid) Then the rear cover unclips (6 clips), start at the top with a trim tool pulling backwards. Once it is off there are 2 screws facing rearwards to remove (need a short phillips for these) and you are done with the rear of the console. There are 4 plugs at the A/V box to unclip Then there are 2 screws at the front of the console, and 2 clips (pull up and back) and the console will come out.
×
×
  • Create New...