Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi all,

Due to some clown attempting to steel my stereo I have had to replace a few parts and I am having serious trouble with one bit. Basically I have ordered a replacement air con control unit and the one that was sent to me differs from the one in the car, although the part number is the same. The only difference is that the new part has a raised plastic lip towards the top of the plastic front cover, so really can anyone help me identify which model R34 it came from?

Here are some pics of the item and a close one of the lip.

Thanks

IMG_9275800x600.jpg

IMG_9273800x600.jpg

if thats NOT what you need I beleive I have the other one at the shop. alomst looks series 2 to me. give me a shot of it from the top and give me your chassis number and I'll tell you.

Heres a picture for you from the top

IMG_9276800x600.jpg

and if you can make it out this was the unit that was in the car before the damage, you will hopefully see that it has no plastic lip

IMG_2862Large.jpg

  • 2 weeks later...

Bit more info for you Chris... The chassis number of the car is ER34-001572. The item I bought is not as long as the original its about 1cm shorter on each side. Quite puzzled as to which car it came from as its clearly not for my 34

need your model # as well (or a shot of your build palte.) my oct 2010 japan fast doesnt like your car so I need to 'force' it to looking it up.

If your new one is shorter.. I'd say it was out of the 34 with the pop up screen as the screen controls sit under the vents.. pic is related

Now that is interesting, I think we may have found where the controller came from. I have looked at the picture closely and it would appear that you are right, the dimensions do seem to match with what I have been sent. At least I have some idea as to which model 34 it came from, that way I can maybe ebay it and recover some of the money I paid for it.

I will take a pic of the build plate and send it to you Chris as soon as I can, as I still need the correct one to replace the damaged one.

Thanks all :ermm:

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Thanks guys,  Yeah I should at least have them dynoed, at least then I know what I've got as a starting point.  The springs on these are hard as rocks. I vaguely remember Russman saying he was going to sell the shocks to me with the rocks fitted, as he was keeping the softer springs for his new setup.  I didn't click at the time but of course that was to let me know the shock/spring wouldn't be matched.  I also remember pricing up new springs around 2014-15, but, house, money etc. it never happened. So that was another reason to have them rebuilt. I have rebuilt the forks on many motorcycles so I think I could handle the seals on these easily enough, but getting the valving right would be a rabbit hole I cbf exploring.  Duncan, interesting to hear RP was tuning these back then. I might give them a call.  In the mean time I have been busy fitting sway bars. The Whiteline rear sway bar I purchased 15 years ago finally got fitted, along with the Whiteline front bar that showed up last week. Just waiting on new links for the front sway bar to finish that off.  And my spare set of advan AVS VS5's should be back from the powder coaters in a Pearl White finish sometime this week, with a set of Hankook RS4's lined up for fitting.  And then I just have all the suspension bushes to do. A comprehensive kit is on the way... Lots to do before the Ararat hill climb. Cheers guys 🍻   
    • Nice car! I’m glad folks in the US have gotten past the FnF and are buying real cool cars like the 260RS I was with a bunch of mates in Portland about a year ago and spotted a green Stagea (just a regular 2.5T AWD) parked about 2 blocks away and they were like “a what?” So I made a bet with them for a round of beers and said “ok one of you run down there and tell me if the steering wheel is on the correct side” 5 mins later the American comes trudging back up the hill and goes “he’s right guys. Ok what beer do you want?”
    • Should replace OR drop the tank, give it's good clean. Might be worth replacing that entire fuel level/pump/cradle thing with this: https://frenchysperformancegarage.com/products/fpg-s13-180sx-r32gtst-single-pump-hanger-kit-billet-hat-6-v3-fpg-089?gQT=2  
    • Thank you so much for the help
    • Yes it is ATF. I quote @Duncan "it takes a good synthentic auto trans fluid like Castrol Transmax Z" It's not a diff. It's a transfer case. Totally different thing. Yes, fluid will come out the sender hole. No you do not really need to drain it. Just pull the old, quickly poke the new, clean up and top up. But realistically, you should probably take the opportunity to change it anyway.
×
×
  • Create New...