Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Personally i wouldn't trust a pump like that...

You know it's not 100% even if it may sound like it's working and act all fine, it still could be damaged inside and not be able to pump all the fuel that it used to...

It's not something worth gambling with y'know.

my 2c

  • Replies 41
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

People are mentioning pumps to me, but not giving me prices or how could get em off them if willing to sell em.

And having my car out of action is beginning to frustrate me.

The pump sounds like it is working, but didn't end up getting the car to start properly. I need to try turning the pump on with just a spare bitta pipe to see if it is pumping the fuel or not.

If necessary I'll fork out for the new walbro pump kit from Trojan, but thats $230 that I really can't afford to be spending, but will cos I want my baby up and going again.

Get back to me asap guys, getting tired, stressed and frustrated.

I haven't put a price on mine as it's still in Sydney and I don't even know if it's out of the car yet. Want to lay eyes on it before I say it's for sale and of course make sure its ok.

Sounds like you are after a quicker solution than mine anyway. Mine won't be home till early Dec at best.

Yeah I kinda knew to half expect this, my large issue is it's the only car I have. The lucky bit is it's summer and i can take my motorbike.

I'll just keep working on bits and dealing with them 1 at a time..

I'll let you know if still need info on yours Kat, but there was a couple of other offers, so guess will see what they say to me, else I'll fork over the $230 to Trojan and buy a new one from them - presuming can't get all working right with the old one.

The stock one aint a walbro. walbro aint japanese :D The stock one is a japanese nissan made one.

I'd be happy to check that one off ya Troy, any chance u can spin past mitchell sometime? Thing is I still dunno if mine has issues or not, cos it sounded like was working fine, I just gotta test it in the fuel.. it sounds like is pumping fine... just atm I hadn't got the car to start when first put it back in, and it def is submerged in the fuel... I'll give it a try tonight, and if still nothing, I'll take it out again and see that actually is pumping or wtf is up *sighs* don't want to buy or try a different pump if that aint the issue.

Nah sorry I meant I assumed I had a stock pump, and it turned out to be some Walbro thingy.

Mine's just sitting there doing nothing....but at this stage I doubt I'd be able to shoot out to Mitchell again...already done it twice in the past week, which is twice more than I'd like to lol...

I might swing out there after work on Friday though, but only because I usually find my way out civic direction that time anyway. Otherwise, no sooner than that sorry. At least that gives you some time to work out what your pump is doing.

Walbro is around $130 from ebay. I had mine delivered in 3 days.

http://cgi.ebay.com.au/WALBRO-GSS342-FUEL-...=item336293cfab

If the pump sounds like it is working, then you probably don't need a new pump. If you really think it's a fueling issue, take the fuel line off at the engine and stick it into a bottle. Turn the ignition on but don't start it, see if fuel is being delivered.

You only need a small amount of fuel to get it started.

AutoPro and Repco can also order in Walbro and Bosch pumps. I bought my Bosch 040 pump from AutoPro for $205, 2 years ago.

Pretty pos is right way, cos the pipes only reach so far, so can only go in one place.

I was gonna take it off engine side to test, but the hose is a bit heat damaged, I need to replace it in general, but it'll not need to be replaced today unless I take it off, but prob gonna have to take it off.

I'll double check feed and return, and that all pipes are connected correctly where they are meant to be, and see if get pressure.

Troy I can ride my motorbike out your way more to meet you if need it earlier than Fri, else can meet you here in mitchell or maybe Civic.

Thanks heaps for help guys, just gotta work out exactly what the prob is then follow that up with one of the solutions.

Oddly Autobarn cannot order the pump in I needed, but at least the other places can if necessary.

I attached the connector back as it was. It only goes on one way. The thought crossed my mind, but it's a plug, and only goes on one way...

Thank you for checking my stupidity level though. If I had done that, my head would have a long visit with a brick wall in the near future.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I came here to note that is a zener diode too base on the info there. Based on that, I'd also be suspicious that replacing it, and it's likely to do the same. A lot of use cases will see it used as either voltage protection, or to create a cheap but relatively stable fixed voltage supply. That would mean it has seen more voltage than it should, and has gone into voltage melt down. If there is something else in the circuit dumping out higher than it should voltages, that needs to be found too. It's quite likely they're trying to use the Zener to limit the voltage that is hitting through to the transistor beside it, so what ever goes to the zener is likely a signal, and they're using the transistor in that circuit to amplify it. Especially as it seems they've also got a capacitor across the zener. Looks like there is meant to be something "noisy" to that zener, and what ever it was, had a melt down. Looking at that picture, it also looks like there's some solder joints that really need redoing, and it might be worth having the whole board properly inspected.  Unfortunately, without being able to stick a multimeter on it, and start tracing it all out, I'm pretty much at a loss now to help. I don't even believe I have a climate control board from an R33 around here to pull apart and see if any of the circuit appears similar to give some ideas.
    • Nah - but you won't find anything on dismantling the seats in any such thing anyway.
    • Could be. Could also be that they sit around broken more. To be fair, you almost never see one driving around. I see more R chassis GTRs than the Renault ones.
    • Yeah. Nah. This is why I said My bold for my double emphasis. We're not talking about cars tuned to the edge of det here. We're talking about normal cars. Flame propagation speed and the amount of energy required to ignite the fuel are not significant factors when running at 1500-4000 rpm, and medium to light loads, like nearly every car on the road (except twin cab utes which are driven at 6k and 100% load all the time). There is no shortage of ignition energy available in any petrol engine. If there was, we'd all be in deep shit. The calorific value, on a volume basis, is significantly different, between 98 and 91, and that turns up immediately in consumption numbers. You can see the signal easily if you control for the other variables well enough, and/or collect enough stats. As to not seeing any benefit - we had a couple of EF and EL Falcons in the company fleet back in the late 90s and early 2000s. The EEC IV ECU in those things was particularly good at adding in timing as soon as knock headroom improved, which typically came from putting in some 95 or 98. The responsiveness and power improved noticeably, and the fuel consumption dropped considerably, just from going to 95. Less delta from there to 98 - almost not noticeable, compared to the big differences seen between 91 and 95. Way back in the day, when supermarkets first started selling fuel from their own stations, I did thousands of km in FNQ in a small Toyota. I can't remember if it was a Starlet or an early Yaris. Anyway - the supermarket servos were bringing in cheap fuel from Indonesia, and the other servos were still using locally refined gear. The fuel consumption was typically at least 5%, often as much as 8% worse on the Indo shit, presumably because they had a lot more oxygenated component in the brew, and were probably barely meeting the octane spec. Around the same time or maybe a bit later (like 25 years ago), I could tell the difference between Shell 98 and BP 98, and typically preferred to only use Shell then because the Skyline ran so much better on it. Years later I found the realtionship between them had swapped, as a consequence of yet more refinery closures. So I've only used BP 98 since. Although, I must say that I could not fault the odd tank of United 98 that I've run. It's probably the same stuff. It is also very important to remember that these findings are often dependent on region. With most of the refineries in Oz now dead, there's less variability in local stuff, and he majority of our fuels are not even refined here any more anyway. It probably depends more on which SE Asian refinery is currently cheapest to operate.
    • You don't have an R34 service manual for the body do you? Have found plenty for the engine and drivetrain but nothing else
×
×
  • Create New...