Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

A friend has a R33 that she recently bought. The key doesnt unlock the boot and the boot release lever is broken. How can we get the boot open. I pulled the back seat out of mine and can reach thru with a long flat screwdriver and open mine. Tried the same thing with her car and it wont open.

Any ideas...?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/344739-how-to-open-a-r33-boot/
Share on other sites

Grab release cable with pliers if its broken @ the cabin end, last resort drill out the barrel.

Tried pulling the release cable. Wont budge.

Inside the boot lid there are 2 bolts that hold the latch to the lid. What would happen if these were undone..?

Tried pulling the release cable. Wont budge.

Inside the boot lid there are 2 bolts that hold the latch to the lid. What would happen if these were undone..?

The boot should probably pop open..

or from in the cabin.. pull the cable tight as you can and then pull the inside metal cable.. my daily ford bonnet cable broke and to open it i had to pull it tight then try pull the metal cable..

The boot should probably pop open..

or from in the cabin.. pull the cable tight as you can and then pull the inside metal cable.. my daily ford bonnet cable broke and to open it i had to pull it tight then try pull the metal cable..

The inner cable just snaps again. lol

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Got you mate. Check your email!
    • I see you've never had to push start your own car... You could save some weight right now...
    • Sounds good.  I don't 100% understand what your getting at here. When you say, "I keep seeing YouTube videos where people have new paint and primer land on the old clearcoat that isn't even dulled down" do you mean this - there is a panel with factory paint, without any prep work, they paint the entire panel with primer, then colour then clear?  If that's what you mean, sure it will "stick" for a year, 2 years, maybe 3 years? Who knows. But at some stage it will flake off and when it does it's going to come off in huge chunks and look horrific.  Of course read your technical data sheet for your paint, but generally speaking, you can apply primer to a scuffed/prepped clear coat. Generally speaking, I wouldn't do this. I would scuff/prep the clear and then lay colour then clear. Adding the primer to these steps just adds cost and time. It will stick to the clear coat provided it has been appropriately scuffed/prepped first.  When you say, "but the new paint is landing on the old clearcoat" I am imagining someone not masking up the car and just letting overspray go wherever it wants. Surely this isn't what you mean?  So I'll assume the following scenario - there is a small scratch. The person manages to somehow fill the scratch and now has a perfectly flat surface. They then spray colour and clear over this small masked off section of the car. Is this what you mean? If this is the case, yes the new paint will eventually flake off in X number of years time.  The easy solution is to scuff/prep all of the paint that hasn't been masked off in the repair area then lay the paint.  So you want to prep the surface, lay primer, then lay filler, then lay primer, then colour, then clear?  Life seems so much simpler if you prep, fill, primer, colour then clear.  There are very few reasons to go to bare metal. Chasing rust is a good example of why you'd go to bare metal.  A simple dent, there is no way in hell I'm going to bare metal for that repair. I've got enough on my plate without creating extra work for myself lol. 
    • Hi, Got the membership renewal email but haven't acted yet.  I need to change my address first. So if somebody can email me so I can change it that would be good.    
×
×
  • Create New...