Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

How much ignition are you running in your RB20 tune? It looks one the boost hits there isnt really much gained hp wise from more revs and the torque seems to die off real quickly.

The RB25 setup with the T67 looks the goods!

As much as it took without stopping making power... I think it was around 26 top end but don't quote me on that! Wouldn't ping regardless haha

That might be the small ports/factory intake etc holding the RB20 back, what turbo was on the 20 Simon?

Hypergear ATR43G3 0.63

Actually ended up going 517rwhp (386rwkw) without correction...

So that is a 127hp more than the RB20, plus it's 700rpm quicker to come on boost and nearly doubles torque between 3000rpm-5000rpm

Does nothing but burnouts in pretty much all gears

awesome build man nice power curve as well, and i'm tossing between this T67 vs GT35r -82r or GTX35r for my RB30det build

but i am on limited budget (2500) if you dont mind me asking how much is this turbo setup roughly ? turbo+gate and mani cheers

GTX35r are still very expensive and without exaust housing so my main choise would be T67 or GT35r looking for 400kw

awesome build man nice power curve as well, and i'm tossing between this T67 vs GT35r -82r or GTX35r for my RB30det build

but i am on limited budget (2500) if you dont mind me asking how much is this turbo setup roughly ? turbo+gate and mani cheers

GTX35r are still very expensive and without exaust housing so my main choise would be T67 or GT35r looking for 400kw

I would go this any day over a GT3582R, I have a pretty low opinion of them. The will probably make a bit more power but a fair bit laggier... GTX3582R is massive so you would probably be better at looking at a GTX3076R for similar sizing!

Turbo $879

Manifold $1300

Gate $375

If you were doing a Garrett add about a extra $500 for braided lines and double the price of the turbo (GTX probably a bit more)

That might be the small ports/factory intake etc holding the RB20 back, what turbo was on the 20 Simon?

mebbe...but i dont buy into that snmall port thing. An RB20 has larger valve area per cylinder then an SR20 so dont see that as being the problem. You only need ports and valves mig enough to cover the displacement of each cylinder...other wise velocity, cylinder filling etc goes to crap. Probably more to do with teh lil internal gate turbo with a small housing on funny fuel meaning the thing had so much back pressure it woudldnt take any ignition up top ?!?!?!?

mebbe...but i dont buy into that snmall port thing. An RB20 has larger valve area per cylinder then an SR20 so dont see that as being the problem. You only need ports and valves mig enough to cover the displacement of each cylinder...other wise velocity, cylinder filling etc goes to crap. Probably more to do with teh lil internal gate turbo with a small housing on funny fuel meaning the thing had so much back pressure it woudldnt take any ignition up top ?!?!?!?

Not sure what the issue was, it really did hit a brick wall at that power... but I'm pretty sure it had plenty of timing top end :)

Edited by SimonR32
  • 2 weeks later...
  • 3 weeks later...

Out with the old Bride Brix...

2011-01-20181237.jpg

and in with the new, Bride Zeta II :)

2011-01-20181011.jpg

2011-01-20180949.jpg

Was in pretty average condition yesterday, gave it a nice clean and a bit of a fix up last night and looks heaps better now. Going to try a few things with it soon to get it looking nice and fresh soon. The old Brix will end up my passenger seat when I can find or swap my drivers rail for a passenger one.

Getting ready to track the Booga a fair bit soon so thought it might be a good idea to try and drop under bonnet temps a little bit... First on the list a Turbo Beanie and also have a roll of heat wrap that I'm going to do the dump with on the weekend :)

2011-01-24115726.jpg

2011-01-24173643.jpg

2011-01-24173716.jpg

Did the heat wrap on the dump today and finally got around to taking it for a quick burst with the new turbo bag (in the 38 degree heat)... All went really well, got back and could put my hand on the turbo bag for a few seconds so I guess the heat would have been around 70deg which would be several hundred lower than what it was originally. Dump was also cool enough for a quick touch.

The whole engine bay is now a fair whack colder, so job done. Now just time to get it back on the dyno :)

2011-01-29115201.jpg

2011-01-29120600.jpg

Went back for a touch up on the tune last night...

Ran a bit more boost and a bit more revs and it made a little more top end and mid range, also set up low boost for track work at 1.3bar and made 350rwkw or 475rwhp!

Here is the graph of the high boost run (note that correction being put on made a extra 20rwkw) so pretty similar top end to my last run

2011-02-03205959.jpg

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi...so a "development" here aswell The swap is "done" and car went "test drive" BUT it seems the clutch(maybe gearbox?) is a little bit sad? I bought this clutch kit https://justjap.com/products/xtreme-heavy-duty-organic-clutch-flywheel-kit-nissan-skyline-r31-r32-r33-push-type "Problem" is that the first gear is hard to put into and it seems that the clutch is not disengaged. It was not the problem with the old clutch...(or like sometime the first gear would not get as easy specialy when the fluid was cold) So? Can it be like...bad "install" or is the clutch wrong ((it should not have been) i done research to get the right one) Or is this "normal" with new clutch and needs to be break in? 
    • @Duncan I can try  and thanks i did not thought about VIN and part numbers for 33/34. @GTSBoy yeah it looks like iam gonna do that  
    • Forgot to include this but this is the mid section of my steering rack that looks like it has a thread/can be turned with that notch mentioned in the post:
    • Hey everyone, Wanted to pick some brains about this issue I'm having with rebuilding my 33 rack (PN is 49001-19U05). All of the tutorials/videos I've seen online are either R34 or S Chassis racks which seem to be pretty straightforward to disassemble but this process doesnt carry over to my rack. Few of the key differences that I've noted The pinion shaft on the other racks bolt on with 3 torx bolts: Whereas my rack bolts on with 2 allen head bolts: These changes are pretty inconsequential but the main difference is how you pull the actual rack out of the housing. The other skyline/s chassis racks can be taken out by tapping the rack out of the body with a socket and it just slides right out. I'm unable to do that with my rack because there's a hard stop at the end that doesn't let the seal/shaft be tapped out. Can also see a difference in the other end of the rack where mine has a notch that looks like you're able to use a big wrench to unthread 2 halves of the rack whereas the other racks are just kinda set in with a punch. My rack: Other racks: TLDR; Wanted to know if anyone has rebuilt this specific model of steering rack for the R33 and if there were any steps to getting it done easier or if I should just give this to a professional to get done. Sorry if this post is a bit messy, first one I've done.
    • I would just put EBC back on the "I would not use their stuff" pile and move on.
×
×
  • Create New...