Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

A thread for those with Ported heads.

I am keen to know what figures in CFM you are getting from both intake and exhaust ports.

Hopefully there are enough people on here with ported heads to keep this going.

So follow this proformer thingo :P

Head Type: (eg RB20DET, RB26DETT etc)

Porting Type: (eg CNC, backyeard job, Pro head guy etc)

Valve size: (eg standard, 1mm over size etc)

Flow at x lift: (eg 200cfm at .450thou or 130cfm at 8mm etc)

Manifolds fitted: (eg none, stock exhaust manifold etc)

Power/turbo/boost: (eg 300rwks, GT3076, 18psi etc)

Comments:

Port Photos: (Not asking to give away any secrets or anything like that)

Cheers

Andrew

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/345389-head-flow-figures/
Share on other sites

Head Type: Cast Iron Ford Cleveland 2V (small port)

Porting Type: Cleaned up/Port matched by me

Valve size: Standard 2.04" Intake 1.56" Exhaust

Flow at x lift:Intake 197cfm at .450", 203cfm at .550" (tells me there is no point going any larger than 500thou lift) 175cfm Exhaust at .500" (flows a little more at .550 but like the intake its not worth going that big)

Manifolds fitted: None

Power/turbo/boost: Will flow just under 400hp at the crank

Comments: Pretty good for near standard heads with un-touched chambers, Has cemented my decicion to run it at 309 cubic inches instead of 351 or 383, due to the fact that the bigger capacity will cause I big drop off in power in the top end, as well as limiting revs.

Port Photos: To come

Cool idea :P

I don't have all the specs on mine though but will still add.

Head Type: RB25DET

Porting Type: Lewis Engines (Adelaide)

Valve size: Standard

Flow at x lift: 265cfm at .400 on intake

Manifolds fitted: Stock exhaust manifold and stock intake runners (Plazmaman plenum)

Power/turbo/boost: Last dyno tune on old Microtech 263rwkw on BP98 at 18-20psi on HKS GT-RS

Comments: Head was ported, polished and had the valve seats cut by Lewis Engines. Installed all new valvetrain gear along with Performance valve springs and Tomei 256 camshafts.

On the road difference, very large gain in midrange power, not much gain in peak kw figure due to limit of HKS GT-RS.

Currently retuning it myself and will have new dyno sheet next year.

Edited by PM-R33

Yeah we got very good results out of it :P

Normally he ports them out to around 250cfm but my head was with him for a long time so he spent a bit more time on it and went a bit beyond to what he normally goes for the price I was charged.

Cool :P

Heavily ported 2v cleveland heads will flow about 260-270cfm, Interesting when you consider the RB head has 4 valves per cylinder and is 30 years newer than the Cleveland. They were designed for a 5.8L v8 though compared to a 2.5L turbo six

You forgot to add

What car is used for: Street/Drag/Track

Very important in port selection. And 265cfm is nothing for an RB25 head. We have made 480hp at the wheels on a stock head with pon cams.

I'll try to get more information on flow etc for Noels head if Marty White will give them to us.

It is also important that the flow specs are checked properly. Some people incorrectly check flow at the cylinder head face. 2 inches of tube should be added on the exhaust side to get correct flow on an RB cylinder head

And 265cfm is nothing for an RB25 head. We have made 480hp at the wheels on a stock head with pon cams.

Ohh I didn't mean it to sound like it was a huge amount or something, I know you can get a lot more :P

It's a street car and the porting was only done since the head was off to get the valve springs put in. Figured while it was off to give it a bit of a port.

Edited by PM-R33
Ohh I didn't mean it to sound like it was a huge amount or something, I know you can get a lot more :P

It's a street car and the porting was only done since the head was off to get the valve springs put in. Figured while it was off to give it a bit of a port.

nah I know, was moreso replying to what Zebra said

  • 1 year later...

Rb25

Pro head guy

Standard size ferrea valves

234 at .500 before porting

245.5 at .400 intake after

253.3 at .500 intake after

135 at .300 exhaust before

137 at .500 exhaust before

157.7 at .300 after

161.6 at .500 after

No manifolds

Ss2 hypergear will be fitted

Mostly street with occasional track work

Most of the work done was on the chambers with 4-5 hours done on the ports. Will try get photos up later. Also tomei springs and poncams fitted

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The rain is the best time to push to the edge of the grip limit. Water lubrication reduces the consumption of rubber without reducing the fun. I take pleasure in driving around the outside of numpties in Audis, WRXs, BRZs, etc, because they get all worried in the wet. They warm up faster than the engine oil does.
    • When they're dead cold, and in the wet, they're not very fun. RE003 are alright, they do harden very quickly and turn into literally $50 Pace tyres.
    • Yeah, I thought that Reedy's video was quite good because he compared old and new (as in, well used and quite new) AD09s, with what is generally considered to be the fast Yokohama in this category (ie, sporty road/track tyres) and a tyre that people might be able to use to extend the comparo out into the space of more expensive European tyres, being the Cup 2. No-one would ever agree that the Cup 2 is a poor tyre - many would suggest that it is close to the very top of the category. And, for them all to come out so close to each other, and for the cheaper tyre in the test to do so well against the others, in some cases being even faster, shows that (good, non-linglong) tyres are reaching a plateau in terms of how good they can get, and they're all sitting on that same plateau. Anyway, on the AD08R, AD09, RS4 that I've had on the car in recent years, I've never had a problem in the cold and wet. SA gets down to 0-10°C in winter. Not so often, but it was only 4°C when I got in the car this morning. Once the tyres are warm (ie, after about 2km), you can start to lay into them. I've never aquaplaned or suffered serious off-corner understeer or anything like that in the wet, that I would not have expected to happen with a more normal tyre. I had some RE003s, and they were shit in the dry, shit in the wet, shit everywhere. I would rate the RS4 and AD0x as being more trustworthy in the wet, once the rubber is warm. Bridgestone should be ashamed of the RE003.
    • This is why I gave the disclaimer about how I drive in the wet which I feel is pretty important. I have heard people think RS4's are horrible in the rain, but I have this feeling they must be driving (or attempting to drive) anywhere close to the grip limit. I legitimately drive at the speed limit/below speed the limit 100% of the time in the rain. More than happy to just commute along at 50kmh behind a train of cars in 5th gear etc. I do agree with you with regards to the temp and the 'quality' of the tyre Dose. Most UHP tyres aren't even up to temperature on the road anyway, even when going mad initial D canyon carving. It would be interesting to see a not-up-to-temp UHP tyre compared against a mere... normal...HP tyre at these temperatures. I don't think you're (or me in this case) is actually picking up grip with an RS4/AD09 on the road relative to something like a RE003 because the RS4/AD09 is not up to temp and the RE003 is closer to it's optimal operating window.
    • Either the bearing has been installed backwards OR the gearbox input shaft bearing is loosey goosey.   When in doubt, just put in a Samsonas in.
×
×
  • Create New...